Ok some of you may or may not have seen my thread on pp, or pt but I'm going to make some changes in this one since some of the problems went away. I have an 89pgt with 2.50" turbo back exhuast, 2.25" hard piping to spearco fmic, bov, mbc, prototype chip same as probinator, msd blaster 2 coil, ngk wires. And here's my symptoms
So I was driving my car yesterday and everything was fine hit boost ok and all.. Today I go out to my car and start it and it idled fine.. So I tried to drive and it started bogging out and cel started to come on and go off.. Hmm? I'm thing intake leak at first. Nope it was idling fine still. So if I drove it an tap the gas a little it would bog and jump and damn near stall out, again cel light flashing. I stopped and the idling went up and down between 800rpms and 1500. Then back to idling like a champ. So I unplug the the vaf thinking it was and intake problem? Well when the vaf is unplugged it's suppose to run in limp mode with a check engine light. Well no cel and still bogging and bucking. Then the car shut off and won't start! I have fuel and spark. I seen the spark for the dizzy I pulled a plug off the cap. Also has spark to the coil which is an msd blaster 2. I can smell fuel. I pulled timing cover off belt is still tight. I'm going to let them motor cool down before pulling the plugs to further inspect. Do a compression test check plugs.. I have solid piping and silicone couplers and all the piping and couplers are tight. What do you think it is??
Well the car stared up a half an hour later so the car flooded it self out to we're it stalled out and would start.. So my thinking is bad coil pack or coil wire?
Pull the CEL code, follow the WSM instructions for diagnosing the CEL code, if you don't find and retify the problem then get back to us.
Otherwise you're going to get a lot of different opinions (I've got my own but I'll leave it for the other guys)
And you'll end up chasing a bunch of possibilities you don't have to.
Pull the CEL code, follow the WSM instructions for diagnosing the CEL code, if you don't find and retify the problem then get back to us.
Otherwise you're going to get a lot of different opinions (I've got my own but I'll leave it for the other guys)
And you'll end up chasing a bunch of possibilities you don't have to.
I Did I'm only throwing 2 codes, 8 and 10 both mean vaf, but I've always those codes since I've had the car going on 9 months.
What's WSM? And im going more toward a bad vaf. But the car won't start with out vaf plugged in?
I'm a Little discourage by the amount of money and time if been putting in to get this thing near show room finish and if matters couldn't get any worse? My hood latch cable broke and when I took the car for a drive I hat a little bump and hood flew open and completely destroyed it and put 2 little creases in my roof. But the only good thing is the windshield didn't break.. But the paint was fresh and the whole car is rust free and "was" dent free:-( I'm just highly upset and now I have to fix this car now. Eventually I'll get the creases fixed and the whole car repainted just upsets me:-(
I've read most of it but, not really trouble shooting anything for me. Like why is the car so rich with out the vaf hooked up. I'm only throwing codes for the vaf that's it.
What do you mean? Basically half of the entire WSM is dedicated to trouble shooting.
Did you actually complete any of the procedures for codes 8 & 10 on pages F2-21 + 23?
The VAF and intake temperatur sensor are the load reference for the ECU.
When codes 8 and 10 are thrown the ECU assumes a particular value the each.
This value may be way too high for your engine at your current air temp and altitude.
Once again...
follow the instructions,
diagnose why you are getting those codes,
replace or repair the items indicated in the order instructed,
clear the codes following the procedure in the WSM.
If problems persist after that go back to the WSM and go through symptom 9 on page F2-11.
I've read most of it but, not really trouble shooting anything for me. Like why is the car so rich with out the vaf hooked up. I'm only throwing codes for the vaf that's it.
It's what they call limp home mode. Fuel is dumped into the motor because it doesn't know how much fuel to dump so it reads a set of fuel maps when it doesn't have any signal from VAF or IAT. This is why it runs the way it does. If your VAF and IAT are bad, these are the symptoms you would get even if it was plugged in.
What do you mean? Basically half of the entire WSM is dedicated to trouble shooting.
Did you actually complete any of the procedures for codes 8 & 10 on pages F2-21 + 23?
The VAF and intake temperatur sensor are the load reference for the ECU.
When codes 8 and 10 are thrown the ECU assumes a particular value the each.
This value may be way too high for your engine at your current air temp and altitude.
Once again...
follow the instructions,
diagnose why you are getting those codes,
replace or repair the items indicated in the order instructed,
clear the codes following the procedure in the WSM.
If problems persist after that go back to the WSM and go through symptom 9 on page F2-11.
I'm getting pretty sick of repeating myself.
Relax man, I have read everything except for the non turbo stuff, and I really appreciate you help and patients with me. Every thing is leaning towards a faulty vaf. And also that wsm was great help me figure out and understand a lot on the motor and coolig it. Another reason I'm running rich is my temp doesn't reach normal temp. Like it runs way to cool.
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