I have a friend making me a custom O2 housing for my '89 GT and it's actually coming along nicely.
The custom O2 housing looks very similar to the ones made in the past with a divorced wastegate pipe. This will bolt up in the OEM location and enable me to keep my A/C if I still had it and will be 2.5" vs the stock 1 7/8".
Here are the bends being used:
Here is the jig made off the OEM O2 housing:
Here is the start of the new custom O2 housing:
All it should need now is some clean up and an O2 bung. The wastegate tube isn't as graduated as I anticipated, but I think it looks really good.
What sucks is I used to have a turbine, but scrapped it... If I get measurements, do you think he could fabricate the divider that way? How important is the indention/flat edge around the wastegate port on the flange? Like this one pictured. I assume it's for the the wastegate to fully open. With the larger hole of my setup, do you think it'd be fine without the indention?
If you get him measurements he should be OK.
He can make it a little bigger than the measurements indicate and then you can adjust the divider to suit upon assembly.
BTW, It really only needs a couple of decent tack welds to attach it to the flange, allowing you plenty of room to adjust it to fit.
The milled area next to the Waste-Gate port is to allow the wastegate flapper to open fully.
Depending on the size of the WG port on the flange you have there it might not be neccessary.
You'll have to check the WG range of movement upon assembly and possibly grind with a burr if required.
I have access to make my own(and have), but I wouldnt have an issue in buying a piece to support a new venture like this to help get it off the ground.
I was able to pull a turbine housing and sent it off to my friend. The wastegate actuator moves the flapper roughly 1/2" and once fully open, does break the surface where the flange would meet the turbine housing. So he'll know for sure now if the area next to the waste gate port needs milled or not and will be able to get the divider just right.
Once he makes mine, sends it to me & I get it installed to see if there are any bugs to work out, he intends to make more if there is a demand for them. He thinks he'll be able to sell them for ~$150.
Gavin, I sent my friend several links with examples of what I wanted and he basically combined your waste gate pipe design to Jake's final design and that is what he came up with. It looks great! Thanks for the link to that other thread. I had not come across that one yet. Lots of great info!
Here are more pictures of it mated to the turbine housing I pulled.
As you can see all the 17mm OEM nuts go on, but the one furthest to the right side below where the O2 bung will go will not accept a socket. A stubby wrench will have to do or smaller nut for a socket.
As far as the waste gate goes, it seems that it is able to open far enough (at least .5"). So hopefully no need to mill out a section for the flapper gate.
Still need to get the divider fence made and O2 bung placed.
Thats a picture of monoxidechilds original O2 housing from jake. You can see the small cutout for additional clearance at the bolt to the right of the bung. Its a bit more work to do, but if your guy is up for it.....or, you could...
I ran into the same issue and found a 15mm hex, m10x1.5 nut for that spot. It was actually originally a flanged nut, but I zipped off the flanges so that it would clear.
I noticed the difference between jake's and yours. For less work/cost, I think it's best to go with a wrench and 17mm nut or 15mm nut & socket as you did. Were you able to get a socket on yours or did you still have to use a wrench?
It would be just the excuse I need to do a proper full exhaust on my mint OEM '90 626GT Touring with 75k original miles.
If I'm feeling spry I might buy three, to sell one to some poor sclub who missed out on the initlal build.
Another thought that would add cost, but something I'd personally pay for, milling the flanges flat after welding to ensure flatness for better sealing, resistance to bolt breakage...Yes, It's happened to me, too many times....
Another thought that would add cost, but something I'd personally pay for, milling the flanges flat after welding to ensure flatness for better sealing, resistance to bolt breakage...Yes, It's happened to me, too many times....
I have found bolting the flange up to a spare piece (turbo hot housing....) or a flat piece of metal with bolt holes drilled in the right spots eliminates most of the heat distortion.
Is this mild steel or stainless? I'm in the process myself of fabricating one of these up and I would be more than happy to do so for our Aussie members once I get it set out right. Where did you get those flanges or were they custom made?
I think we have plenty of clearance for the wastegate. Here are some pictures of clearance and amount of movement the flapper gets. What do you guys think? I don't think it would be necessary to mill out that section of the flange.
Here is a side shot with the gate positioned roughly 1/2" from closed position where the actuator would fully open the flapper.
Here is how far the gate can actually open.
He polished and cleaned it up. This is how they will be delivered.
For the fence he will probably just shear a piece to size and roll it to a perfect fit. Once the fence is in and he gets the 02 bung on, it will be ready to send to me to be tested out.
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