90 amp alternator... - Mazda MX-6 Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-19-12, 20:43 Thread Starter

 
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90 amp alternator...

I know theres plenty of threads on alternator replacement, and many threads on the millennia swap etc etc. I searched and didn't find an answer to my questio, which is this: rockauto has a "90 amp" alternator for the 88 mx6 gt. Last one on the list. Anyone know if this is a legitimate 90 amp or if it is a typo? All the other ones they have say 70 amp. If this is indeed a 90 amp bolt on that would be better than buying a millenia one and grinding it.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-19-12, 22:55
 
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If i remember right, the ATX's had the 90 amp, and the MTX's had the 70 amp. I have both in my garage and there is no ways to tell the difference between them other then the sticker on them saying there amperage and some other info.

I wouldnt say its better then the millenia at all considering its still a Mitsubishi alt which just cant compare to the higher quality windings in the Millenia Nippon Denso.

It is a direct swap which is the lone gain over the Millenia alt though. Which to alot of people is what matters. Less then a minute of grinding for clearance isnt that bad though. But why go through the work if your not going to use that extra power also.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-20-12, 1:51 Thread Starter

 
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My issue is power though. Windows are super slow and dims the headlights, as does the single 12" woofer I have. The idle even drops significantly. And its not like I have a JL12w7 or nothing either, just a polk audio 12" to complete the sound spectrum. It might have something to do with the fact that the battery is in the trunk but I used 4 gauge wire for that and its a two year old battery, so I dont think either of those are the culprit.

Are you saying the 90amp mitsu is trash and I should go with a millenia one anyway?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-20-12, 2:52

 
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Some problems I found with the alternator arrangement on the GD:

GD1021 chassis cars had a smaller alternator drive pulley on the crank, GD 1022 chassis cars (here anyway) had a larger one to speed up the alternator, which makes a difference at idle speed.

I have found on other cars that Mitsubishi alternators seem to have a regulator that is not good a delivering current at slow rotational speeds compared with Denso and Bosch equivalents.

So, do you want to increase the idle speed current delivery, or is the alternator output completely inadequate at all speeds ? The latter usually results in the battery going flat after a long drive despite the alternator working properly.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-20-12, 23:16 Thread Starter

 
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Well it doesnt drain the battery, but that doesnt necessarily mean its putting out 14.7 volts at 70 amps. I have no way of proving this as I have not driven around with a multimeter attached to my car, but I'm pretty sure it shouldnt take 20+ seconds to put a window up; therefore it's bad. Taking into account the fact that I do have 2 amps however, I'd be more comfortable replacing it with a 90 jobber.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-21-12, 8:46
 
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Maniac Electric Motors also offers a direct bolt on upgrade thats like 140 amps. If simplicity is the name of the game. And there prices are actually really good.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 1-21-13, 2:58
 
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ATX's have an 80a stock.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 1-21-13, 10:34
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monoxidechild View Post
Maniac Electric Motors also offers a direct bolt on upgrade thats like 140 amps. If simplicity is the name of the game. And there prices are actually really good.
I'm not sure how a 140 amp alternator would be of use since the main fuse which all power runs through (besides the starter motor) is only rated to 80 amps.
Therefore the main fuse and possibly the positive wire on the alternator would need to be uprated in order to make use of the extra available current.

I'm not saying that it a bad idea, just that in order to actually draw over 80 amps other changes would be necessary.

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Last edited by mx_masta; 1-21-13 at 10:37.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 1-21-13, 23:44
 
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The thing is just swapping out wires and a fuse won't cause more current 'draw'. The loads in the car is what causes the 'draw'. You can't PUSH current it has to be pulled is the way I like to think of it. Yeah if your setup draws more than 80 amps those wires and the fuse will have to be replaced for sure. I am not certain that is what you were intending to mean mx_masta, I just wanted that make that clarification.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 1-22-13, 1:25
 
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Isn't that what I said?

~Ah I think I see why, I should have worded it like this-
"in order to be able to make use of the extra available current."

By "make use of" yes I mean to consume power be that through; amplifiers, driving lights, power windows, headlights, etc.

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 1-22-13, 1:38
 
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90 amp alternator...

Yeah, okay but let's say that you upgrade the alt, all then other power lines have to be good as well as your window motor. As the motor gets old, it draws more power to do the same thing, have you tried a new window motor?


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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 1-22-13, 1:43
 
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90 amp alternator...

I don't know if its much to compare, but I have a 93, with 2 amps, one for the 4 co-aux speakers, and 1 for my 200w sub, plus I have HID's, and LED interior lights. I noticed that going from regular to LED tail light and reverse lights has made a huge difference in my volt drops when things are all on (fan, wipers, lights).
I think I noticed a big difference when I put new wires on my alt to bat, to fuse box and new ground wire. Made the sub and everything power up so much better.


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