I have looked in to all kinds of water, water/meth, meth injection kits and set-ups. From vacuum fed 3L bottles using a syringe needle, turbo boost pressurized set-ups, all forms of pump systems.
A couple weeks ago I was talking to a guy, running 7lbs boost on an old corola he was thinking of water injection and looking for a cheap way to do it, I told him about the trubo boost fed system but hes running nowhere near the required boost, I suggested a tire fill tank with 125psi in it feeding 25psi to the system...
A few days ago there was a spot sprayer on sale and it got me thinking... I searched the stores site for larger ones, and came across this:
15 Gallons, 2.2gpm everflow pump, 70psi max. 180$
almost everything needed, could use the wand tip as a nozzle.
But the pressure is a bit low the tank is too big, the price is high...
I kept searching, the closest I have found to my Idea is a guy running a water air bladder, 1gallon air 100psi, 1 gallon water, as the liquid drops so does the pressure ...
I had searched for quality tire pumps/compressors some time ago, some 12v pumps put out pretty good CFM and can even run small power tools (permanent install kits for off road vehicles)....
What I was thinking of was using a pump/compressor and small air tank to pressurize a water/meth tank enough for proper operation with even flow.
The set-up would require:
2X toggle switches.
compressor motor control switch.
12 volt car compressor.
2 liter air tank.
12 to 16 liter fluid tank (good for 130psi).
2 or 3X one way check valves.
3X hobbs style pressure switch's.
Fluid tank level float / sensor.
1 Nos style purge solenoid valve.
1 12V normally closed 2way solenoid valve.
0-150 psi liquid gauge.
1 LED or other type dash light.
Desired water/Meth nozzles/jets.
Air hose and fittings.
Water/meth lines, T's and fittings.
1 Factory F2T turbo solenoid with extra spring.
wiring and inline fuses.
The set-up would be:
-Body ground running to Dash toggle switch.
-Compressor switch set to go on at 90psi and off 120psi sending voltage to a medium quality 12V air compressor (fuzed 12v, ground from toggle switch ).
-The air compressor hose (tire pump) has a check valve (one way valve) in it then it passes through the compressor switch and into the top of the stable pressure air tank .
-The fluid tank has a windshield wiper level sender (or a tank level sensor) in it modified to cut signal when engaged (low level)(probably no continuity until low from factory) , the ground from the toggle switch passes through this level switch and goes to a pressure switch (hobbs style) set to 85 or 90 psi that's fitted to the top of the tank - So if fluid levels fall below X level then the ground going to the pressure switch is cut, if the tank pressure is below 85 or 90psi then the ground signal passing through it gets cut.
-The ground signal from the tank pressure switch goes to another pressure switch, this one gets it's signal from engine boost pressure and is set to activate meth injection at desired boost (16psi).
-The ground leaves the 16psi pressure switch and connects to an in dash indicator bulb and a two way solenoid valve (open/close, normally closed) that activates water meth delivery when the pressure switch gets 16psi boost.
-The pressurized hose leaving the tank T's to a liquid pressure gauge in dash and continues to the two way 12V solenoid valve (normally closed).
-From the solenoid valve the hose goes to the injector jets .
-A factory turbo solenoid valve (code 42) is run inline before the boost controller, the adjustment screw is set to bleed the desired boost (4lbs) out the smaller fitting when 12v is applied.
[(How the solenoid works is with a 12V signal the valves bleeds of air allowing the factory 8lbs boost, if knock is detected or at low and high RPM signal is cut and so is boost.)
So if you have a bleed style boost controller T'd off the wastegate line set the 17psi and T in the factory turbo solenoid before the boost controller, without 12v = straight through, with 12v it bleeds the screw set amount say 4psi and boost would be 21 lbs.*]
The factory turbo solenoid is grounded from the tanks pressure switch (85 or 90psi) so if the tank level is low or the tank pressure is below 85 or 90 psi then boost doesn't increase for meth injection and the engine doesn't blow up.
-On the top of the tank there is another hobbs style pressure switch, it's grounded to frame and sends it's signal to a solenoid purge valve, the purge valve is connected to a fused 12V source and can receive constant 12V+, the ground side comes from the 2nd tank switch and a grounded toggle or momentum switch in dash. The tank pressure switch is set 3 psi above the compressor switch's high pressure setting. There is a small purge hose running from the top of the Meth tank with a 1way check valve to the solenoid purge valve and continuous to a discharge hose running out to the back loovers for the sunroof water drain.
So when tank pressure rises 3psi above set max 120psi, the pressure switch on the tank activates the purge solenoid and vents the extra pressure out to atmosphere with or without the key on. With the water/meth system Toggle switch OFF, activate the purge toggle/momentum switch to drain the tank and system pressure.
The pressure gauge could be run from the air pressure tank as a pressure gauge, to avoid running liquid to a gauge, but it's already passing through the interior from the trunk to the engine bay (somewhere).
Possibly a one way check valve after the pump.
The pressure settings are all adjustable, min/max tank air pressure, tank purge pressure, injection on boost level, extra boost for meth on and amount (how many more psi), off meth boost level.
The compressor switch air in/out in line between the air tank and fluid tank with a 1way check valve after the switch.
The compressors I looked into on average run between 15 and 45amps, they have max run times of 10 to 40 minutes, weight between 9lbs and 19lbs.
-2200 Cubic inch minute =1.27 CFM
-2440 CIM=1.41 CFM
-3500 CIM=2.02 CFM
-5500 CIM=3.18 CFM
These type of 12V automotive compressors all have quick connects at the compressor and come with 16 feet of air line and tire filler attachments so the pump can also be used to fill tires, you just need a tire plug kit for flats.
*The factory turbo solenoid spring is good up to about 14psi above that it will hold shut until it gets a signal source but won't shut against pressures above 14psi (can't remember if it's 12v bleed opened or 12v bleed closed at the moment)
It's a simple magnetic solenoid that block a bleed hole adjusted with a screw thats locked with a nut. Inside the metal cup that the magnet move there is a tiny spring that holds it against the pressure flow, you need to add a second solenoid spring or use a stiffer one that fits, 2 factory springs will hold and close at 24 lbs without fail.
These turbo solenoids also make great two stage boost controller .
In the sketch it's labelled E that's hard to read, before it is a "circled thing" it's T'd from the wastegate boost source (for me before the TB from the charge pipe) after the bleed style boost controller the "circled thing) is (in my case a return line going back into the air intake pipe between the VAF/AFM and turbo.
What I mean by bleed style boost controller is the wastegate line gets T'd to it and you simply open it to bleed off the amount off extra boost you want over the wastegate actuators activation boost, so with a 12lbs wastegate the bleed style boost controller bleed off 4 psi to run 16lbs boost, instead of spring and bead style boost controllers or 3 way bleed off controllers that sit between the boost source and waste gate.