Basic fuel setup - Mazda MX-6 Forum
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Basic fuel setup

This writeup is for those people that keep Asking me about ways to run more boost safely with this slightly upgraded Turbos. T3, t3t4,16g,18g,holset etc

This is more of a budget built and still required you to upgrade your fuel pump to prefferably 255lph at the minimum or larger recomended, also if you want you can remove the diaphram at the end of the fuel rail to eliminate the fuel restriction in line from fuel filter.

Parts require

1. extra injectors or cold start valve

you might want to use a cold start injectors for this, {reason being} This injectors are one /off valve, and can be found on lots of 80s and 90 cars. 91-95 mr2, volvo,saab,mercedes,bmw,older vw and audis. cost $5 or more each.

2. injectors pigtail.: make sure you get the appropriate pigtail for whatever injector you get, typically 90% of them uses square type ev1 connectors
New Set of 8 Pcs EV1 Fuel Injector Connector Plug with Pigtail Quick Disconnect | eBay
New Set of 8 Pcs EV1 Fuel Injector Connector Plug with Pigtail Quick Disconnect | eBay

3. fuel Tee: Typically your f2T comes equiped with 5/16 fuel hose, so you want a tee to reflect that.
10 Pack 5 16" Barbed Plastic Tee Hose Fittings Polypropylene 150 PSI New | eBay

4. Hubb switch/boost swicth: this is important, because the whole concept of the exhaust fuel is knowing when or what boost we want the injector to start opening, so if the car starting to run lean at 11psi, we will want the extra injector to open around 9psi, so by the time the fuel reaches 11psi, the a/f ratio sure show the changes in added fuel.
New Hobbs Pressure Switch 76575 4PSI N O Adjustable | eBay

5. Wideband O2 gauge: I cannot stress this enough, every boosted car need one, they are cheap , aem wideband can be picked up for less that $140, thats far cheaper than the damage you will incure if you blow your motor. and this give you an ability to see exactly what your mixture is.

6. Relay: Although not necessary, this will ensure your injectors only kicked in when the engine is running.not when you doing a vacuum leak

The wiring is basic, Injector power going to the relay or battery with a 20amp protected fused. and the injector ground going to the Hobb/boost switch.

Relay wiring
30= battery 12+ constant
85= goes to ground or chassis or battery -
86= 12 volt ignition, That is is 10 gauge yellow /black wire under your steering column, tap into that.
87= This goes to the positive side of the injector you are activating. doesn't really matter what side it goes to on the inejctor, as long as one is positive and other is neg. it will work.

The boost switch or hobb , can be ground on one side and the other side run to the injectors. set the boost as preffered, clockwise to increase boost , other way to decrease.

when completed , This is how the car should look, yours will probably looks better, This was setup in less than 1 hour.

So effective

The car runs 13.1@111mph on 17psi on 93 octane and stock chip ecu . with this setup.

and you can easily beat up on compeition with less than $80 in mods, assuming you already have a wideband and upgraded pump

at 14 psi against a moded evo 8 on 22psi with every bolton and tune with bigger fmic and gutted

1990 mx6lx , f2, nitrous,...13.5@102.9 on 87shot
1989 white pgt.. going for 600whp..1600cc inj
1990 probe gt 491whp at 29psi, holset hx35
1988 mx6gt 501whp @27psi..6262. now megasquirt
1990 mx6lx 348whp@ 18psi slipping clutch...sold
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