Fun with RX7 rims - Page 4

**gavin** · 4-9-05, 16:46

Bringing this one up for an update.

The ARP studs I was using are now gone. They were awesome, cheap, fit perfectly and provided me with the range of adjustment I needed to work with different wheels and suspension components.

For those who have forgotten I have 3 sets of wheels that I use on occasion. The stock 15x6" , the 16x7" 2nd gen PGTs(I dont use these too much nowadays) and the 16x8" 3rd gen RX7 wheels(predominantly for autocrossing.)

I needed the longer studs to accomidate the 225/50/16 Kumho MXs and the large amount of negative camber I run at autocrosses. Spacers were needed for the 2nd gen and RX7 wheels. I started with 12.5mm spacers. This was fine with the Ground control/2nd gen Illumina setup, but switching to the Koni inserts and stock strut bodies provided even more camber (and more clearance issues)than was allowed with the 2nd gen illuminas. I now use 20mm spacers.

The longer ARP studs provided enough length to add or subtract spacers if necessary "on the fly" should clearance issues arise. However they are being retired for something else. Even longer studs.

These are a GM performance part for the Corvette. GM part number: 22551491. I knew they existed but was unable to find the part number initially. The ARP studs were more accessable so I went with them

Why the change? Quite frankly...the bullet nose. I change tires at events and every once in a while I catch myself threading a nut slightly off center. Ive caught myself on all occasions and havent accidentally cross threaded a stud.....yet. Its a little thing but I simply did not want to have to think about it any longer. The bullet nose on the GM studs speed the threading process while reducing the possibility of crossthreading to almost zero.

And they add a certain "Mad Max" flair to the car

(or like "Ben Hur" with the roman chariots with the pitchforks through the axles)

PS. For those who are wondering about replacing studs. Its pretty easy.

First, removal. use stock nut with the top chopped off(so it is now open ended) and thread that over the stud , conical side pointed in, until it is flush with the end of the stud. A 3lb BFH will do the rest. One firm, well directed strike should be enough.

For insertion. Inset the replacement stud. A large socket (I used a 23mm)that fits over the stud and the open ended nut, this time with the conical side facing outwards, and a ratcheting breaker bar and pull the stud into place.

anyway thats probably it for this chapter for right now.

Until I get the new wheels, but thatll be another story.

Gavin

**SixSick6** · 4-9-05, 16:55

You could probably use an upgrade on those rotors though ehhh....look pretty old but they must be functioning?

Either way, http://www.carmadillo.com offers some Brembo blanks for a great price.

**HotRodMex** · 4-9-05, 17:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by SixSick6

You could probably use an upgrade on those rotors though ehhh....look pretty old but they must be functioning?

Either way, http://www.carmadillo.com offers some Brembo blanks for a great price.

Have you missed all the threads where his car was down? Doing the Guru install sounds like it was down for a very long time, so I imagine it's just surface rust.

Oh, and what was the part# gavin? Availible from any GM dealer?

**gavin** · 4-9-05, 18:33

Sick....HotRodMex caught it. The car was up in the air for a while due to the differential install. During that time it rained a bit and the rotors picked up some surface rust. It looks bad, but They are fine and not in need of replacement yet.

HotRodMex...My bad. GM part number: 22551491. Its a performance product item out of their Rocketsports catalogue. It is a dealership only item. I was quoted with a list price of $5.17 each. I did work a deal with the parts counter to have the price lowered however(your dealership experience may vary). For reference the ARP items are @$12 for a package of 5.

Gavin

**KiNg MaRtY** · 5-9-05, 16:29

curious as to if you only used the spacers on the rear or did you even it out and use them in the front also?

**gavin** · 5-9-05, 19:44

Because of the alignment I have on the car, spacers were used on both the front and the rear of the car.

I believe Iggypop said even with stock alignment there was rubbing and spacers were necessary(no doubt at a 10mm offset difference an 2" of extra wheel width)

Gavin

**Dyoel182** · 5-10-05, 1:32

So Gavin, you're using the 1/2" spacers front and rear? I just wanted it to be clear for everyone.

**gavin** · 5-10-05, 4:46

With the original setup(illuminas) I was using 12.5mm(1/2") spacers all around. With the new setup(stock struts/konis) I am using 20mm spacers all around.

Mounted on the 1st gen the stock struts will have more negative camber built into them. This moves the tops of the tires closer to the strut bodies. While I had clearance with the illuminas, the stock shocks needed more spacers to move the tires off the strut.

There are a couple other particulars for the 20mm spacers(lots of negative camber, inner fender clearance, 245..er I mean 225 section width tires)but thats the most of it.

Gavin

**Dyoel182** · 5-10-05, 10:24

Wait....are you running 245s like I am?

I am going to have to go back to 225s because I hate that they stick slightly out of the fenders and it just looks a little ghetto.

**KiNg MaRtY** · 5-10-05, 11:25

uhhhh. if you could be so kind and post a pic with the 245's. I haven't seen that on a 1gen.

Whith the 235/45/17's I had on my 1gen PGT with no spacers it was nice and flush!

**gavin** · 5-10-05, 11:29

225/50/16 Kumho MXs. Ive mentioned before that they are a very wide 225 tire(really as wide as most 245s). The 8" wide wheels add even more width.

Day to day, I use 205/60/15s on the stock wheels.

Gavin

**Dyoel182** · 5-10-05, 12:04

Do you use the spacers with the daily wheels or not? Mine are bolted to the car so I just leave them on but what do you do gavin?

**gavin** · 5-10-05, 12:23

No spacers on the daily drivers. I only use the spacers when I am using the RX7/MX combo (basically, only when Im autocrossing).

Gavin

**gavin** · 10-4-05, 0:28

End of an era.

Its been about 2 years since I bought these 3rd gen RX7 wheels. These were a set of 1992 castings for the 1993 model year car. At 16"x8" and 13.8lbs they were wide and light.

They also have a reputation of being fragile. Its no wonder that after 1993 Mazda redesigned the wheel to have a stronger casting. The post 93 cars got wheels that were as light as 15.2lbs. That extra pound or do went a long way to increase the strength of the wheels.

These were a dedicated set of autocross only wheels, no street driving (well, sometimes to events if they were close). I washed them after each event by hand because its easier to see damage when something clean(not obscured by dirt/brake dust) and is in your line of sight. Imagine my surprise when, at the last autocross this past sunday, retorquing my lugnuts I see this.

Whats funny is that this crack is so large its amazing that I could have possibly missed it since the last event 3 or so months ago. Upon further investigation I found other carcks. Out of the 4 wheels 2 had cracks in the spokes. One wheel had 3 cracks, the other had one.

Shots of the backside of wheel #1

Theres about an inch between the cracks in the 1st picture. The second picture has a nice hairline crack starting.

Backside shots of wheel #2

Another hairline crack onthe left side of the spoke. Just to give perspective..Thats wheel #1 in the background and you can clearly see the very visible crack even at a distance and out of focus compared to the cracked wheel in the foreground.

I suppose I should be sad about this, and I am a bit. I really liked these wheels for what they offered. I wish I could have kept the wheels and used them for a longer time, but in the end..I did only pay $150 for the set. After 2 years of many autocross runs, I think I did get my moneys worth. Ill miss them a lot.

And besides, I have er....bigger plans

For those who have 1992 castings, I suggest you keep an eye out for cracks. Even daily driving will have them crack. Potholes, curbs...and yes high stress events like autocrossing will show their strength(or lack thereof). Better to catch it when it starts before it ends.

Gavin

**HotRodMex** · 10-4-05, 2:15

I hate it when you do that: "And besides, I have er....bigger plans

." Just tell us what the damn plans are!!!

4-9-05, 16:46	#46 (permalink)
gavin Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: santa cruz.ca iTrader: (1)	Time for a change Bringing this one up for an update. The ARP studs I was using are now gone. They were awesome, cheap, fit perfectly and provided me with the range of adjustment I needed to work with different wheels and suspension components. For those who have forgotten I have 3 sets of wheels that I use on occasion. The stock 15x6" , the 16x7" 2nd gen PGTs(I dont use these too much nowadays) and the 16x8" 3rd gen RX7 wheels(predominantly for autocrossing.) I needed the longer studs to accomidate the 225/50/16 Kumho MXs and the large amount of negative camber I run at autocrosses. Spacers were needed for the 2nd gen and RX7 wheels. I started with 12.5mm spacers. This was fine with the Ground control/2nd gen Illumina setup, but switching to the Koni inserts and stock strut bodies provided even more camber (and more clearance issues)than was allowed with the 2nd gen illuminas. I now use 20mm spacers. The longer ARP studs provided enough length to add or subtract spacers if necessary "on the fly" should clearance issues arise. However they are being retired for something else. Even longer studs. These are a GM performance part for the Corvette. GM part number: 22551491. I knew they existed but was unable to find the part number initially. The ARP studs were more accessable so I went with them Why the change? Quite frankly...the bullet nose. I change tires at events and every once in a while I catch myself threading a nut slightly off center. Ive caught myself on all occasions and havent accidentally cross threaded a stud.....yet. Its a little thing but I simply did not want to have to think about it any longer. The bullet nose on the GM studs speed the threading process while reducing the possibility of crossthreading to almost zero. And they add a certain "Mad Max" flair to the car (or like "Ben Hur" with the roman chariots with the pitchforks through the axles) PS. For those who are wondering about replacing studs. Its pretty easy. First, removal. use stock nut with the top chopped off(so it is now open ended) and thread that over the stud , conical side pointed in, until it is flush with the end of the stud. A 3lb BFH will do the rest. One firm, well directed strike should be enough. For insertion. Inset the replacement stud. A large socket (I used a 23mm)that fits over the stud and the open ended nut, this time with the conical side facing outwards, and a ratcheting breaker bar and pull the stud into place. anyway thats probably it for this chapter for right now. Until I get the new wheels, but thatll be another story. Gavin Last edited by gavin : 4-9-05 at 18:25.

4-9-05, 18:33	#49 (permalink)
gavin Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: santa cruz.ca iTrader: (1)	Sick....HotRodMex caught it. The car was up in the air for a while due to the differential install. During that time it rained a bit and the rotors picked up some surface rust. It looks bad, but They are fine and not in need of replacement yet. HotRodMex...My bad. GM part number: 22551491. Its a performance product item out of their Rocketsports catalogue. It is a dealership only item. I was quoted with a list price of $5.17 each. I did work a deal with the parts counter to have the price lowered however(your dealership experience may vary). For reference the ARP items are @$12 for a package of 5. Gavin Last edited by gavin : 4-9-05 at 20:25.

5-9-05, 16:29	#50 (permalink)
KiNg MaRtY Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Anaheim, Orange County, CA, US Age: 24 iTrader: (0)	curious as to if you only used the spacers on the rear or did you even it out and use them in the front also?
	05 STI 92 Galant VR-4 90 Eclipse GSX HKS' Former Promo Car 89 MX6 GT 4WS SOLD 89 PGT R.I.P 93 PGT5 /93 PGT5-SOLD/89 PGT-R.I.P. /96 PGT5 R.I.P.

5-10-05, 1:32	#52 (permalink)
Dyoel182 Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Granbury, TX iTrader: (0)	So Gavin, you're using the 1/2" spacers front and rear? I just wanted it to be clear for everyone.
	I'ts a piece of cake to bake a pretty cake, if the way is hazy You gotta do the cooking by the book, you know you can't be lazy

5-10-05, 10:24	#54 (permalink)
Dyoel182 Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Granbury, TX iTrader: (0)	Wait....are you running 245s like I am? I am going to have to go back to 225s because I hate that they stick slightly out of the fenders and it just looks a little ghetto.
	I'ts a piece of cake to bake a pretty cake, if the way is hazy You gotta do the cooking by the book, you know you can't be lazy

4-9-05, 16:55	#47 (permalink)
SixSick6 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Age: 32 iTrader: (2)	You could probably use an upgrade on those rotors though ehhh....look pretty old but they must be functioning? Either way, http://www.carmadillo.com offers some Brembo blanks for a great price.

5-9-05, 19:44	#51 (permalink)
gavin Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: santa cruz.ca iTrader: (1)	Because of the alignment I have on the car, spacers were used on both the front and the rear of the car. I believe Iggypop said even with stock alignment there was rubbing and spacers were necessary(no doubt at a 10mm offset difference an 2" of extra wheel width) Gavin

5-10-05, 4:46	#53 (permalink)
gavin Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: santa cruz.ca iTrader: (1)	With the original setup(illuminas) I was using 12.5mm(1/2") spacers all around. With the new setup(stock struts/konis) I am using 20mm spacers all around. Mounted on the 1st gen the stock struts will have more negative camber built into them. This moves the tops of the tires closer to the strut bodies. While I had clearance with the illuminas, the stock shocks needed more spacers to move the tires off the strut. There are a couple other particulars for the 20mm spacers(lots of negative camber, inner fender clearance, 245..er I mean 225 section width tires)but thats the most of it. Gavin

5-10-05, 11:25	#55 (permalink)
KiNg MaRtY Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Anaheim, Orange County, CA, US Age: 24 iTrader: (0)	uhhhh. if you could be so kind and post a pic with the 245's. I haven't seen that on a 1gen. Whith the 235/45/17's I had on my 1gen PGT with no spacers it was nice and flush!
	05 STI 92 Galant VR-4 90 Eclipse GSX HKS' Former Promo Car 89 MX6 GT 4WS SOLD 89 PGT R.I.P 93 PGT5 /93 PGT5-SOLD/89 PGT-R.I.P. /96 PGT5 R.I.P.

5-10-05, 11:29	#56 (permalink)
gavin Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: santa cruz.ca iTrader: (1)	225/50/16 Kumho MXs. Ive mentioned before that they are a very wide 225 tire(really as wide as most 245s). The 8" wide wheels add even more width. Day to day, I use 205/60/15s on the stock wheels. Gavin

5-10-05, 12:04	#57 (permalink)
Dyoel182 Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Granbury, TX iTrader: (0)	Do you use the spacers with the daily wheels or not? Mine are bolted to the car so I just leave them on but what do you do gavin?
	I'ts a piece of cake to bake a pretty cake, if the way is hazy You gotta do the cooking by the book, you know you can't be lazy

5-10-05, 12:23	#58 (permalink)
gavin Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: santa cruz.ca iTrader: (1)	No spacers on the daily drivers. I only use the spacers when I am using the RX7/MX combo (basically, only when Im autocrossing). Gavin

10-4-05, 0:28	#59 (permalink)
gavin Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: santa cruz.ca iTrader: (1)	Crack kills. End of an era. Its been about 2 years since I bought these 3rd gen RX7 wheels. These were a set of 1992 castings for the 1993 model year car. At 16"x8" and 13.8lbs they were wide and light. They also have a reputation of being fragile. Its no wonder that after 1993 Mazda redesigned the wheel to have a stronger casting. The post 93 cars got wheels that were as light as 15.2lbs. That extra pound or do went a long way to increase the strength of the wheels. These were a dedicated set of autocross only wheels, no street driving (well, sometimes to events if they were close). I washed them after each event by hand because its easier to see damage when something clean(not obscured by dirt/brake dust) and is in your line of sight. Imagine my surprise when, at the last autocross this past sunday, retorquing my lugnuts I see this. Whats funny is that this crack is so large its amazing that I could have possibly missed it since the last event 3 or so months ago. Upon further investigation I found other carcks. Out of the 4 wheels 2 had cracks in the spokes. One wheel had 3 cracks, the other had one. Shots of the backside of wheel #1 Theres about an inch between the cracks in the 1st picture. The second picture has a nice hairline crack starting. Backside shots of wheel #2 Another hairline crack onthe left side of the spoke. Just to give perspective..Thats wheel #1 in the background and you can clearly see the very visible crack even at a distance and out of focus compared to the cracked wheel in the foreground. I suppose I should be sad about this, and I am a bit. I really liked these wheels for what they offered. I wish I could have kept the wheels and used them for a longer time, but in the end..I did only pay $150 for the set. After 2 years of many autocross runs, I think I did get my moneys worth. Ill miss them a lot. And besides, I have er....bigger plans For those who have 1992 castings, I suggest you keep an eye out for cracks. Even daily driving will have them crack. Potholes, curbs...and yes high stress events like autocrossing will show their strength(or lack thereof). Better to catch it when it starts before it ends. Gavin

10-4-05, 2:15	#60 (permalink)
HotRodMex Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: San Luis Obispo, Sunny CA! Age: 26 iTrader: (0)	I hate it when you do that: "And besides, I have er....bigger plans ." Just tell us what the damn plans are!!!
	Apparently, I'm Mazda fo' lyfe... 1989 MX6 GT -::- 1991 RX7 Convertible