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I'm a big fan of water cooled turbos.
and while the turbo *is* a source of heat - I haven't done the equations, but it does contribute to the total btu count that the cooling system has to compensate for... its not something the driver should ever notice if you have a properly functioning cooling system, and aren't over-running its capacity to cool.
All that would happen is that your thermostat will open more frequently [mangina]il you hit a ceiling, such as endurance driving under boost, + very hot days, etc.. in which case the stock stuff may not be able to keep up.)
As for oil - we have an interesting issue having hydraulic lifters.
Turbos tend to operate better with a thicker oil, which helps prevent cavitation and foaming (which will effect the drain performance, and also potentially help oil to work its way past the bearing seals in the turbo)
HLA equipped vehicles tend to like a lighter oil. I wouldn't run a 40 or 50 weight in a KL, personally - though i know plenty who have, espeically road racing - and for similar reasons as above, except as it pertains to the oil pan and keeping oil in the engine during a highspeed sweep.
with that said - any good quality modern oil will have enough resistance to foaming. stick with a standard 5 or 10 winter rating, depending on how cold you get in your area, and a 30 weight rating.
Its far more important to keep your oil CLEAN than worry about weight so much. an old turbo might burp up a thinner oil.. but thats just its way of telling you it needs a center cartridge rebuild lol.
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