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**Goatcrapp** · 5-13-08, 21:47

first of all you don't buy a clutch based on "stage"

stage is just a marketing term. ACT's staged clutches are not the same as Spec's, or clutchmasters'.

second answer.. as someone who burned through several clutches - i say buy as much clutch as you can afford, and search search search on the drivability characteristics you want.

clutchmasters has the best drivability (most like stock - soft engagement, soft pedal) but i killed a CM stage 1 and 3 (rated for 230lbs or torque) in very short order. the stage 1 abnd 3 CM's had identical pressure plates, which are nearly the same as stock.. good for a low boosted vehicle, that just needs a bit more disc grip.. but not suitable for higher boost or competition, where you'll be relying heavily on the clutch to slow you down as well.. The CM's both heated up and glazed too easily, and i had to let them cool down.

Valley friction has a very sharp engagement (pretty much on or off) and very high holding capacity - but will be harder on you and your tranny.

I currently have a southbend OFE full face (stage 4?) and I'm not crazy about it. It holds the power, but so did my SPEC stage 3, 6 puck. Frankly, the spec felt better, INSTALLED better (this SB clutch had me installing longer slave cylinder rods, didn't specify any stepping requirements on the flywheel, and etc.)

the best clutch I personally ever had in a daily driven/ occasional competition 2g was the spec stage3 - 6 puck (they make a 4 puck also, which has a higher holding capacity, but sharper "feel".

I regret getting the OFE, frankly.. and am waiting for it to die, so i can buy another spec disc ( i still have my pressure plate... it only died at 20k miles because my tranny blew up and soaked the disc with gear oil.)

Its important to make that distinction.. will it be race/ competition, or daily driven? what characteristics do you want out of it?

Anyways.. long sotry short... buy as much clutch as you can afford now if your plans for boost are REAL plans. If theyre just pipe dreams, or a few years away, just buy a cheap exedy replacement and be done with it.. It'll hold the n/a / boltons power unless you're driving stick like an idiot.

5-13-08, 21:47	#4 (permalink)
Goatcrapp Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: brooklyn, NY Age: 29 iTrader: (2)	first of all you don't buy a clutch based on "stage" stage is just a marketing term. ACT's staged clutches are not the same as Spec's, or clutchmasters'. second answer.. as someone who burned through several clutches - i say buy as much clutch as you can afford, and search search search on the drivability characteristics you want. clutchmasters has the best drivability (most like stock - soft engagement, soft pedal) but i killed a CM stage 1 and 3 (rated for 230lbs or torque) in very short order. the stage 1 abnd 3 CM's had identical pressure plates, which are nearly the same as stock.. good for a low boosted vehicle, that just needs a bit more disc grip.. but not suitable for higher boost or competition, where you'll be relying heavily on the clutch to slow you down as well.. The CM's both heated up and glazed too easily, and i had to let them cool down. Valley friction has a very sharp engagement (pretty much on or off) and very high holding capacity - but will be harder on you and your tranny. I currently have a southbend OFE full face (stage 4?) and I'm not crazy about it. It holds the power, but so did my SPEC stage 3, 6 puck. Frankly, the spec felt better, INSTALLED better (this SB clutch had me installing longer slave cylinder rods, didn't specify any stepping requirements on the flywheel, and etc.) the best clutch I personally ever had in a daily driven/ occasional competition 2g was the spec stage3 - 6 puck (they make a 4 puck also, which has a higher holding capacity, but sharper "feel". I regret getting the OFE, frankly.. and am waiting for it to die, so i can buy another spec disc ( i still have my pressure plate... it only died at 20k miles because my tranny blew up and soaked the disc with gear oil.) Its important to make that distinction.. will it be race/ competition, or daily driven? what characteristics do you want out of it? Anyways.. long sotry short... buy as much clutch as you can afford now if your plans for boost are REAL plans. If theyre just pipe dreams, or a few years away, just buy a cheap exedy replacement and be done with it.. It'll hold the n/a / boltons power unless you're driving stick like an idiot.
	MX6 #1 [x]Turbo [x]Big Brakes [x]Jspec headlights [x]HID [x]K-Sport Coilovers [x]MSefi [x]Liquid/air I/C [x] 44 kit [x]108mph 1320 [x]oem lip decklid spoiler [x]misc [ ...] done? [x]MX6 #2. SOLD [x]Toyota Paseo. 42MPG. [x]5.9 Jeep. #1's tow vehicle. Still faster than most KL's.//Modifications List