Part 2: Starting the Manual Transmission Swap
Brake and clutch master cylinder and pedals
-Take off Brake master cylinder.(2 12mm bolts,1 12mm bolt for cruise control wire bracket, 1 wire harness)
-2(w/abs) or 3 (w/o abs) hydraulic lines on brake master cylinder (12mm use a box wrench)
-Take reservoir off master cylinder (1 screw and pull it off)
-Put on mtx reservoir on master cylinder. Reattach bolts and harness.
-Reattach brake lines.
-Get inside car. Take off center console, panel around shifter, the plastic panel under steering wheel (2 screws, 3-4 clips, and 2 side plastic pieces in door hinge area). Be sure to take off driver’s seat too. It’s preparation for the shifter and pedal installation. You’ll need more space to work when doing the pedals. Your back will be sore after doing this.
-Take off ATX brake pedal assembly. (7 12mm bolts, 2 10mm bolts, 1 mm nut, 1 wiring harness and 1 clip for cable, and 1 cotter pin for brake booster)
-Take off black plastic casing around the steering wheel. 3-4 screws.
-Drop the steering column down and off to the right(2 12mm bolts on each side.)
-Pull out brake pedal assembly.
-Fit in clutch pedal assembly (***don’t install mtx brake pedal assembly first because you can’t fit the clutch pedal in after that. I learned the hard way and had to reinstall it again****)
-go outside car and under hood, take off the white plastic grommet on driver’s side( this is the hole to mount the clutch master cylinder.
-Fit the clutch master cylinder in hole. 1 person holds that in, while the other person goes inside car to bolt up the clutch pedal assembly against the clutch master cylinder on the other side. (2 12mm bolts, 1 pin for the hydraulic pin thing)
-Install mtx brake pedal assembly.(7 12mm bolts, 210mm bolts, 1 mm nut, 1 clip for cable, 1 cotter pin for brake booster pin) *somebody should be under the hood to push the brake booster against the firewall so the other person can install the brake pedal assembly*
-Look for 2 wiring harnesses under there. Match up the harness to brake pedal harness and the clutch wiring harness to the right harness. Both should plug in easily.
-Clutch pedal is supposed to plop to the floor, (more info on that later)
-reinstall the steering column. Don’t install black panel around steering wheel. You will need to do something later.
Mtx tranny installation:
-Mount flywheel( where the flexplate and torque converter used to be) 8 14 mm bolts
-Before mounting flywheel, put the pilot bearing in the middle of flywheel hole. Be sure to add high temp grease to it.
-Use clutch alignment tool, stick it into clutch disc, then hold the tool and push the clutch disc against the flywheel. Once on, the clutch alignment tool should be secure(won’t shake around.
-Bolt on the pressure plate onto flywheel.(6 12mm bolts)
-Take off clutch alignment tool
-Install the Top mtx mount bracket onto chassis. The bracket that is suppose to hold the top driver’s side tranny mount. This is a mtx part, the atx one is different. Remove the atx one.
-Bolt up the mtx tranny 4 bolts on top, 3 for dust shield on bottom, 2-3 bolts on engine side.
-Rear tranny/engine mount. 3 17mm.
-Bolt on mtx starter, 3 14mm bolts.
-Wire up starter, Positive and negative ground wire from engine wiring harness(used to connect to atx starter.
-Mount top driver’s side mtx tranny mount to chassis bracket. 1 17mm bolt and nut.
-Jack up the mtx tranny until it fits into the tranny mount holes.
- Bolt on tranny mount to tranny – 3 17mm bolts w/thick gold washer(you will need 1 extra 17mm bolt because the atx tranny mount has 2 while the mtx tranny requires 3 bolts) - 2 17mm nuts and use black thinner washer.
-bolt-on front engine mount to tranny (4 14mm bolts 1 17mm bolt and nut)
- Be sure to put in the fuel filter at this time. It is beside the top tranny mount.
Shifter installation and removal:
-Get inside car and get ready to out atx shifter.
-4 screws, then 2-3 bulbs, then 4 12mm bolts. Atx shifter cable- 10 mm nuts , shifter lock 10mm nut.
-As the shifter lock stops you from turning off the car when in gear. And the cable is loose. You won’t be able to turn your key off and pull out. To solve that, trace that cable to the key hole. Pull on the cable. You’ll see why it won’t hold. Pull the cable, you can turn and take the keys out, cable in, can’t take out. I ghetto rigged it with some rubber bands so it’ll hold in place.
-Install mtx shifter and rod. Go underneath car and unbolt the cat, 4 17mm bolts.
-Push the mtx shifter assembly through the hole. Other person inside car bolts on the shifter, 4 12mm bolts.
Bolt shifter rod to tranny. There should be 2 rods. One for shifting and one for vibration dampening. 1 14mm bolt for the vibration rod. 1 8 or 10mm bolt and nut for shifter rod.
-Bolt on cat. Again. Make sure gasket is tight. 4 17mm nuts
-Get inside car, you should be able to shift into every gear. Don’t do too much ass the tranny doesn’t have gear oil. Install your shift knob on there. Install the shift boot onto shifter panel.
-Put back the panels inside the interior. Shifter panel, center console, steering wheel and column panels.
clutch lines
-Plug the hose from clutch master cylinder to the fluid reservoir
-attach clutch line onto clutch master cylinder 10 mm. Use box wrench for lines
-There should be 2 clutch lines and 1 clutch hose.
-If you want, buy rr ss clutch line and replace clutch hose with that.
-run line along the strut part of the chassis, there should be a white clip for the clutch line to clip onto. It’ll run under the top tranny mount. And onto the bracket that is attached to the tranny mount. The clutch hose should attach to that and the other end of clutch hose on the tranny. From the clutch hose is another clutch line that goes to the clutch slave cylinder.
-Attach onto slave cylinder, 10mm. The slave cylinder should be on the tranny already. The slave cylinder is on top of the front engine mount. It should be against the fork.
axle,hub,members,brakes, bleed
-shove in driver’s side axle into the tranny.
-install wheel hub onto lower control arm, 1 14mm bolt and nut.
-Be sure to put high temp grease on each end of the axle to get the axle into tranny and hub smoothly.
-shove in axle into hub.
-Install steering rod, 17mm nut. Install new cotter pin onto the nut
-Install hub onto strut.2 17mm bolt and nut
-Install (*if applicable) abs bracket and abs sensor(2 12mm bolt and 1 12mm bolt for bracket)
-Do the same to the passenger side, with the addition of intermediate shaft and carrier bearing. (2 14mm bolts if you have a 94-97, 3 bolts if you have a 93)
-Install transverse member 6 17mm bolts for transverse member
-Install crossmemer 2 17mm bolts rear. Install the tranny to crossmember rubber isolator 2 14mm bolt on tranny, 2 nuts onto crossmember. Install to front chassis and front engine mount. 17mm
-install brake caliper and rotor. Along with the pads and brake lines of course.
-Tighten down axle nut onto axle. Tap the edge of nut into the notch in the axle. Be sure to use locktite to be safe. You don't want a axle poppingout on you during driving. 32mm
-Bleed brake and clutch. Bleed brakes first. Make sure you use a power brake bleeder, you will need it as there is too much air in the line for you to do it manually. Go to
www.motiveproducts.com for power bleeder.
-Reinstall splash guards.
-Put wheel back onto hubs.
-Lower car.
Electrical
-Plug in harnesses in tranny area.
-Plug in vehicle speed sensor.
-Don’t plug in reverse light switch.. To resolve that, use the 2 wires from the reverse light switch, plug into the to the 1 and 4 for continuity( for the harness in the illustraion below)
-Use 2 wires and jump 6 and 9 to trick the comp, so you can start the car.
-2-3 harnesses do not plug into anything, just leave it
The orange harness that looks like this:
TOP
------------
|1 2 3 4 5|
|6 7 _ 8 9|
-----------
BOTTOM
Reinstall other stuff:
-Fill up tranny gear oil
-Cruise control, charcoal canister, battery, intake.
Start car and drive!!!
**Remember clutch break in period of 500miles.**
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