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Old 1-24-05, 20:50   #1 (permalink)
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How to: Rear Motor Mount removal/replacement write-up with pics

Taken from PT and Silver_Bullit

Rear Motor Mount removal/installation write-up, with pics!

Ok, first lemme say that this is a REAL PITFA especially if you are a larger person, or have large arms.

My rear MM was toast! I had engine rock while in 5th gear
http://images.cardomain.com/member_...471_51_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_...471_52_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_...471_53_full.jpg

TOOLS NEEDED:

Jack----floor jack will work, but you’ll need something to put on top of it to jack against the tranny with, a short 2X4 will work for this. I used a bottle jack.

½” ratchet
3/8” ratchet
17mm socket, ½” drive
24-32” + of ½” extension (adds 10x the ease to the job )
10mm deep well 3/8 drive socket
Jack stands
½” universal (yet another tool that will make this job a lot easier)


SUPLIES NEEDED:

A LOT of chill pills


Step #1
Jack up the car and support with the jack stands. Remove the CAI From the TB forward. Those with Cruise may have to remove the cruise control cable. I’m not sure as I don’t have it. This will also be 10X the PITA if you have a ZE IM.

Step#2
Remove the drivers side splash shield. Take the bottle jack and jack up the tranny enough to alleviate the pressure on the front Motor Mount. (yet another small side job that takes 5 min and in all makes the job easier and shorter to do). Remove the front MM using the 17mm socket and ratchet. Then lower the engine/tranny.

Step#3
Now here is a little trick I learned while doing this job. Take the 24-32” of extensions, put the 17mm socket on the end of them, and insert them through the pass side wheel @ about 9 O’clock on the wheel. Look through the wheel and guide the socket in and put it on the MM through bolt (one that goes through the MM). Now while watching the bolt/nut from the pass side (it can be seen while standing up and looking behind the intake from the pass side of the car.) loosen the nut up.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_...471_54_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_...471_55_full.jpg


Step#4
Take the 10mm deep well socket and the 3/8’s ratchet and remove the 2 nuts that hold the electrical wiring to the firewall. Once removed, pull the wiring off the bolts and push it forward. (kind of a PITA to do).
http://images.cardomain.com/member_...471_56_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_...471_57_full.jpg

Step#5
Take the jack and put it under the rear of the tranny, and put some up pressure on the tranny to hold it in place as you remove the MM nuts/bolt.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_...471_58_full.jpg

Step#6
Take the ½” universal and the 17mm socket and pull the nuts (2) and the bolt that hold the MM down to the sub frame.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_...471_59_full.jpg

Step#7
As you can see once the MM through bolt’s nut has been removed along with the MM mounting nuts/bolt, the through bolt can’t be removed. As it will hit the P/S line. Simple fix. Take the jack and jack the engine/tranny up a little until the bolt will clear the line. Finally remove the though bolt.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_...471_60_full.jpg

Step#8
The fun/hated/PITA step.
Now with as much patience and as many valium as you have, remove the rear MM. I spent about an hour turning/twisting and just plain trying to force the *******er out of there. Do this however with the engine/tranny jacked up.

Step#9
Replace the old MM, or install the inserts.

Step#10
Follow the above steps in reverse order and put it all back together.



Enjoy!

~Aaron


Lambera - Figured why not add it to our project section. There wasnt much info on this when searching.

boarding with my wiener out
Lambera is offline   Reply With Quote
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