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Old 12-21-03, 20:10   #1 (permalink)
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How-To: Relocating Battery to the Trunk

Posted from a fellow 6er in the forum.

Here is the battery in its stock location:


Last edited by Ruubstr94Ls : 11-29-07 at 15:30.
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Old 12-21-03, 20:14   #2 (permalink)
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Battery removed.


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Old 12-21-03, 20:15   #3 (permalink)
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Battery tray removed.


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Old 12-21-03, 20:15   #4 (permalink)
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The location in the trunk which to place battery.


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Old 12-21-03, 20:17   #5 (permalink)
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All the battery parts laid out.


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Old 12-21-03, 20:20   #6 (permalink)
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Mounting the Battery is a little more involved so I'll detail some of that. First off I bought the Summit Racing battery relocation kit and an optima battery. The Summit kit is junk. The battery cables were good the rest is pretty useless. I got a bad feeling when the instruction said to use a piece of plywood so the battery sat at the right height in the box. I ended up just using the battery box and the power and ground cables. The battery box BTW is available at K-mart, Walmart, for ~$12. The rest I made myself. The hold down bracket is made from 2" wide fiberglass channel. If i had it to do over again I would have used aluminum. The fiberglass is a little more flimsy than I would like. Thats what I had handy though.

I ran the ground to the a bumper bolt that was only about 12" from the battery and inside the car so I didn't need to drill a hole for that wire. there is a lot of body sealer here so make sure to clean it well with a wire brush to get a good ground.


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Old 12-21-03, 20:23   #7 (permalink)
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The positive cable runs between the carpet and the tail lights to the drivers side then down into the wheel well. There is a large grommet there all ready for some wiring. I slit that grommet and ran my power through that. I then tied it up to the gas tank filler line then over the gas tank. It is important to go OVER the tank. It was a bit harder but keeps the wire away from the rear suspension arm. I then ran the wire along the bottom of the car with the fuel & brake lines. Once to the engine bay it was a clear shot to the starter. the positive wire with the kit just reached. if it was 5" shorter it would have been too short.


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Old 12-21-03, 20:23   #8 (permalink)
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Old 12-21-03, 20:24   #9 (permalink)
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Old 12-21-03, 20:24   #10 (permalink)
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Old 12-21-03, 20:25   #11 (permalink)
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At the old battery positive hook up I cut just the ring off of the terminal then heat shrunk over that to keep it from shorting(you can see the ring cut off below).

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Old 12-21-03, 20:27   #12 (permalink)
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I used two 1/2"-13 threaded rods 10" long to anchor to the floor. I drilled two 1/2" holes 8" over from the edge of the spare tire cover. That puts the tie down right between the muffler and the frame rail so you can still get a socket on them. You can see in this pic how I laid a piece of masking tape on the carpet, marked the holes, then punched throught the carpet, then drill the holes.


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Old 12-21-03, 20:29   #13 (permalink)
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Then put a nut and washer at one end with a healthy dose of silicone to keep water out. Then slide the battery box with pre drill holes over the threaded rod.


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Old 12-21-03, 20:29   #14 (permalink)
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Next step was to spin a nut and washer down from the top to hold the battery box to the floor. The I put in the battery, tie down strap and nutted that all down. TADA all done. Total time to do this was ~4 hours.


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Old 12-21-03, 20:30   #15 (permalink)
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