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Old 2-23-06, 22:39   #1 (permalink)
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Join Date: Oct 2002
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How To: Rebuild the 2.5 Power Steering Pump

This how to is for the 2.5 motors only (v6). However ive never seen the 2.0 power steering pump, If its the same.. then this how to should be the same.

Here is some info on the pump, and how it is defective.
On the higher miled motors, the bearing in the pump can be very worn out, I have now changed pumps on 2 cars, both with over 170k.
The reason for the bearing failure is unknown.. (to me anywase) even on some of the best kept cars they wear out, Yet they shouldnt since there alwase lubed with power steering fluid. My best guess is from tempature changes or using the wrong fluid.

Symptoms of a failing power steering pump.
  • Excessive squeeling in the engine compartment, usually people identify it as the idler pulleys but its not alwase them.
  • Power steering fluid is leaking in small amounts (wich later turns to large amounts) from the rear of the motor.
  • Power steering fluid everywhere on the rear of the motor (seen from top)
  • Power steering fluid leaking out faster then you can pour it in
  • Excessive noise coming from the belt area..(same sound as the idlers wearing out) can be a symptom of the pump wearing out.
Why you shouldnt drive when the pump is bad or not functioning at all.
The bearing is vital to the pump, when the bearing go's, it will usually take out the outer seal wich leaks fluid out, this will also let any debri out. If it doesnt take out that seal, it could damage the inner seal, allowing shavings or particals to enter the actual pump part. This can clog the pump, lines or rack and damage it.
The best thing to do is stop driving the car, and fix it asap. You can drive it for an amount of time, but once the noise continues to be persistant, and very loud. Stop, other wise plan to buy a new/used pump, yours wont be fixable.
The worst case scenerio would have to be the pump seizing, causing the belt to brake over time, wich stops the waterpump also,then causes the motor to overheat.


Your choices:
  • You can buy a new reman pump, Range from $100-200Good choice, but are expensive. Not many places keep them in stock, so you may have to wait to get this.
  • You can buy a used pump wich usually range from $20-40, Plus you must pay for shipping if not included and you will have to wait days to recieve it. And you dont alwase know how long it will last.
  • You can rebuild your pump. For as little as $15 or less. If you buy the bearing ahead of time, you can have you car back on the road as fast as you can take the pump out and put it back i
First off tools you will need:
  1. 12mm socket/ratchet or wrench
  2. Fine Steel wool
  3. A cleaner of your choice (brake cleaner, carb cleaner, parts washing fluid) I used non-chlorinated brake cleaner.
  4. A small hammer
  5. A flat head screw driver or punch.
Parts you will need:

You will need the bearing, The part number is 203-F
I got mine from Auto Value for $10

Also there are 2 o-rings inside the pump, I did not replace these, however if yours are bad, bring them to an autostore, size them up and get new ones, $2-3 Max. I dont see these getting damaged in any way, yet $3 isnt much to make sure there isnt any problems.

In this how to, ive only included how to rebuild the pump. If you cannot remove it or install it on your own, i suggest not attempting this.
It took me aprox. 15 min to disassmble, clean and resassmble my pump.

Step 1. Remove the Pully from the pump

Step 2. Remove the Bracket From the pump



Step 3.
Remove the C-Ring from the pump


Step 4. Remove the back bracket from the pump (Blue), Also remove the 5 Bolts in red.


Step 5.
Remove the back cover now that the bolts are off, Be carful not to ruin the gasket. Remove all the internal peices. Becareful not to lose any of the blades on the pump wheel.




Pump wheel with blades:


Step 6.
Your pump should now look like this:

Now with a hammer, lightly tap the end of the shaft, this will force the bearing out the other side
Do not mual the end of the shaft. If it doesnt remove easy, place something plastic over the shaft, and hit it then. If you maul the shaft to a mushroom, your done.. pump is junk.
Once the shaft is out with the bearing, you need to remove the bearing. If it doesnt remove easy, try heating it up a little with a propane torch.


Step 7.
Now with the Steel wool, lightly buff down the shaft till it clean.
Also proceed to clean all the parts with your cleaner of choice.

Step 8 Assembly.
Now you need to install the new bearing, onto the shaft.
Place the bearing onto the shaft, then place the shaft onto the pulley.

The pulley will act as a guide to install the bearing straight. Tap the end of the shaft untill the bearing is fully on.

Step 9.
Install the shaft and bearing back into the pump. Tap it down untill the bearing is below the C-Ring notch's


Then install the C-Ring

Step 10.
Now is a good time to replace them O-Rings if they are bad. Then Install the backing plate.

Install the outer casing, and the pump wheel as well. Make sure that the rounded edges of blades are facing the inside of the wheel. If they are faced to the outside, this could damage the pump.
The outer casing also must be aligned the same. Use the pic to identify its position. The G should face the top (red arrow). Then place the gasket back on.


Step 11.
The Gasket Will reseal, If the gasket is damaged, or your pump had a gasket that wasnt copper, I suggest making a new one with gasket material, or use silicone. Although i dont know how well these will work.

Place the back cover back on the pump, make sure its on right and over the shaft end, Lightly tap it into place, then bolt it down


Make sure that the pump will turn, If you cannot turn it with your fingers, place the pulley on, and then turn it. It should turn with a little effort. It it doesnt turn, or sticks or is rought.. you messed up.
Remove the back cover and solve the problem.

Now test the pump, pour a small amount of fluid in the pump, and hand turn it untill fluid pumps out the other end. If all is working, finish putting it together.

Step 12, Install the rear bracket, Install the main bracket, And install the pulley.

Your pump is now ready to be put back in the car.


This how to was completly constructed on my own. The pictures are mine, and as far as i know, no one has attempted this.
If anyone has anything add, correct, or ask, please do so.
After getting 0 info searching and asking for help, I took things in my own hands and got busy.. so KARMA please!!

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Old 2-23-06, 22:52   #2 (permalink)
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Orange County, CA, USA
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Nice writeup...my car is coming around to 145,000 miles...may think about this soon as a precaution. Karma

EDIT: Oops can't give you any more, sorry...I'll get it to you eventually

D.D. 1997 GMC Jimmy: Polk MOMO 6.5s, Alpine CDA-9885 headunit, BFG All-Terrains, Custom Cat-Back Exhaust, Shaved Rear Emblems, Tinted Tails
1965 Baja Bug Full cage, 1835 motor, built 002 transmission, Woods front arms, Fodrill spindles, SAW torsions, etc, etc

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Old 2-24-06, 1:15   #3 (permalink)
Blanka has an itch
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Awesome writeup!

I cant beleive how bad that bearing was! Unbeleivable.

PS - you need a bigger BFH

Current Location : Saint Michael
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