How to: AWR front motor mount install

[Chrissmazdamx6]

MODS: Please move this to the "Projects" section, if it meets your approval.

I decided to do this write-up when I saw that there was one for the rear tranny mount, but not for the front. I was doing it anyway, so I decided I would try and give something back to the MX6.com community with a good How To. Let me also add, that I did this install the same time I installed my SSAutochrome headers. I'm not very mechanically inclined, aside from basic automotive knowledge, and I HATE working on engines, unless it goes my way and doesnt give me problems. However, I do like the feeling I get when I drive something that I created. NOTHING went right for me with the headers install, but I want to thank Metros for his How To on the LS header installation. It helped me out a lot, and made things go that much easier, so thanks.

This install will be fairly straight forward. To give you an idea on how easy it was, on a scale of 1 to 10, 1 being installing a cold air intake, and 10 being taking a motor out, I give it a 3. My header install was around a 5, just because I had to remove the radiator, and like I said, nothing went easy for me. It shouldnt have been any harder than a 4 though. 2 things I can say for sure: My headers were the hardest project Ive single handedly attacked on my car (with no help) and I will never work on exhaust again (unless its to boost)

But, ill get off all that. After all, this isnt another header install, its a Motor Mount install, so lets get to it:

First off, Ill go over the tools needed to achieve this install. There were less tools needed than I thought:



-1 Jack

-2 Jackstands

-1 phillips head screwdriver or vise grips/plyers

-1 Ratchet

-1 17mm Socket

-1 17mm 1/2" drive deep socket

-1 Breaker bar

Optional:

-Latex gloves (I used them to keep my sexy hands clean)

-1 can of PB Blaster (this will help you, A LOT)

First things first, you need to jack up the car. All I had was two jack stands, and a floor jack. I put the 2 jackstands in the front, and the jack in the back. Putting the jack wont really be necessary for you, because I was doing my headers at the same time, so I had to get a lot further under the car than you will. Plus, you may want to keep the jack handy to support the motor when you pull out the old motor mount. As long as you can get up to your waist under the car, youll be alright.

Here is a picture of her jacked up, awaiting surgery



After you get the car jacked up, climb under and remove the splash guard on both the drivers side and the passenger side. This is where your screw driver will come into use. If you cant get the screw out with the screw driver, use some small vise grips or plyers. You dont need to take it all the way off, but just bend it out of the way to the side, enough that you can get to the motor mount. The motor mount is located at the bottom front of the motor. It is bolted to the transaxle cradle.



Theres two ways you can do this really. Leave everything in, and remove the motor mount working with the room you've got, or take out the crossmember and transaxle cradle and make it easier on yourself. It wasnt that hard to remove these two items, and I had to take out the crossmember anyway (for the headers install) so I did it the way Im going to show you.

First, you need to remove the crossmember. It is located between the two front wheels, and ties one control arm to the other. This is pretty simple, but it might do you some good to spray the bolts down with PB Blaster and let them soak for a while. You will also need your breaker bar, as they will be on there pretty well. Take your 17mm socket, and remove the 6 bolts from the cross member (3 on each side) and pull it down. Use some muscle on this. Theyre not gonna come off easy, im warning you!

Here it is removed from the car



Once the crossmember is down, and out of the way, just one more thing needs to come out before you can get to the motor mount, and thats the transaxle cradle. It is located from the front of the frame of the car, and it goes back to where the crossmember was before you removed it, through the middle of the car.





Take your 17mm socket (all bolts in this project are 17mm) and breaker bar, and remove the 2 nuts from the motor mount that go through the transaxle cradle (pictured above) and then remove the 2 bolts from the front of the transaxle cradle (also pictured above) but make sure you're holding the cradle when you take the last bolt out, as there is nothing more holding it in, and it will hit you in the face if you let it drop.

Here is the Transaxle Cradle removed:


This next part is up to you, and is personal preference. If you want to take your jack, and support the motor if it makes you feel more comfortable, then now would be the time to do so. I dont feel its necessary, because the motor did not rock AT ALL once I removed mine. If it had, I would have supported it, but it has 4 other motor mounts holding it in, so I feel it was unnecessary. Plus I couldnt, because my jack was supporting the back of the car at the time.

Next, is the removal of the mount itself. It has 1 through bolt going through the rubber insert. This bolt, for me anyway, WAS ON THERE. I pulled and pulled, and it was a bitch to get off, but with some PB Blaster and a lot of elbow grease and putting your breaker bar to good use, it should come off. Remove the through bolt, and pull the motor mount down. I had to take off my front bumper, and basically get on the ground, and push with my foot on the breaker bar to get it loose. Im sure you will have a similar problem, unless you have air tools.

***NOTE: I HIGHLY RECOMMEND REPLACING BOTH FRONT AND REAR MOTOR MOUNTS AT THE SAME TIME. IF YOU DO JUST ONE, THE OTHER WILL BE GARBAGE IN NO TIME AT ALL***

I didnt replace my front, yet replaced the rear a while ago, and havent driven my car that much since the install...maybe only 150 miles. My front motor mount was fine at the time, and now it looks like this





Not very appetizing. Glad that junk is out of there! Now its time to put the new one in. Mmm...sexy



I personally think AWR motor mounts are great products. Thanks to nolanspawn for selling me them, and if you need them, PM him. If you prefer to use RR-Racing motor mount inserts, now would be the time to take out the old rubber, and put the inserts in.

Installation is pretty much the reverse of the removal. Put the through bolt through the motor mount, and put the "nut" on the end of it, but dont tighten it down just yet. After its mounted up there, like so:



put the Transaxle Cradle up, and put the two nuts on the motor mount, that hold it to the Cradle. Once you get the bolt through the motor mount, and you get the nuts on the two bolts that hold it to the transaxle cradle, go ahead and tighten the through bolt down with your ratchet and 17mm socket. Leave the other two bolts loose, until you get the front 2 bolts in. Once those are in, you can tighten them all down. If you jacked up the motor, or supported it with a jack, you can now remove the jack. You wont need it for this purpose anymore.

Here is a picture of the motor mount installed:



You will need to use your jack to jack up the Transaxle Cradle when you put the Crossmember back in, as it will hang down too far, and is too stiff when bolted in to push it up by hand to make clearance for the Crossmember.

After it is jacked up, all that is left is to put the crossmember back in. 3 bolts on each side, pretty simple. It helps to have a second set of hands to hold it up while you put the bolts in, but its doable by yourself. After its in, you can take the jack out from under the Transaxle Cradle.

[Chrissmazdamx6]

Once the crossmember is bolted back in, and torqued down, you can put the splash guards back. And thats it! Lower the car to the ground, and start 'er up. If the car vibrates a lot at idle, or even when you're giving it gas, dont worry, its normal. Theyre polyurethane motor mounts, and they hold the motor very solid, which is where all the vibration comes from. Its actually a good thing, if you can handle the noise. Less movement of the motor=more power to the ground. Not to mention they'll never wear like OEM mounts will.

Someone else can clarify this, but I think it would be a good idea to get an alignment after the install. Im pretty sure that removing the cross member would throw it off. If not, then someone can correct me and I will edit this information. I needed an alignment anyway, so I wasnt concerned about it.

This install is very easy compared to some other things ive done. Total install should take no more than 2 hours, and thats if you run into problems. If everything goes smoothly, expect just over an hour. I recommend this for anyone who knows a good bit about these cars, and has even minor mechanical knowledge. I am in no way a mechanic, have never had any kind of training as one, hate working on cars, and this was very easy for me. This write-up isnt even needed really. Its pretty straight forward, and is very easy to do, just by climbing under the car and looking at whats involved.

Regardless, I do hope this has helped someone out. Metros write-up really helped me, so I wanted to give something back to the community, and I hope this is satisfactory. If you have anything to add, or any questions, feel free to PM me.

Thanks!!

[Malicious]

Yes it is very easy to do.

I did my front mount on the street without a jack. Didn't remove the cradle either.

Regarding the alignment issue you brought up, all of the alignment settings for the MX6 are adjusted by changing the position of the strut mount, or adjusting the outer tie rod ends. Removing the transaxle cradle will not require you to get an alignment.