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#16 (permalink) | |
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dont take your SINGLE personal experience and chalk ti up to EVERYTHING that is 12v. Im not disagreeing with your solution, being a PROFESSIONAL i understand there is more than one way to do something. So please dont knock what i do for a living ... thats immature and unneccessary problem : alarm doesnt arm when in timer solution: remove ignition (if this is a problem with your alarm, go to accessory) |
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#17 (permalink) |
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How you wire it is the installers choice.
Solder, Crimp fitings, piggy back fittings, twist caps or the common ricer tape the wire to another wire. Soldering is great, however in that tight spot with limited wire to be pulled out.. shrink wrapping the exposed solder joint can be difficult. Also alot of people dont even know how to solder correctly and they just get a gob job that ends up falling apart. Once the wires are tucked in the dash, there is basically no movement or any interfearence with the wireing.. so having wires pull out shouldnt be an issue either way. This How to is basically here just for the info of what wires, and where. I have an alarm on my car as well, I did not do anything to make it work with the turbo timer. Im honestly not in that big of a hurry at any time that I cant wait 30 seconds for my car to cool down. The timer is basically just there so I dont have to manually do it (otherwise id just shut the car off instantly because its a habbit) |
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#18 (permalink) | |
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Yes some alarm might not need that 12V to be reset, but if the manufacture put that wire there it has to do something. If not then might as well not put it there the first place, right? And being a "professional", your solution should work in all cases and we already know yours won't. Cutting the wire and leave it unhook is like cutting the ground to your signal to get a fast blinker. |
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M-Edition Turbo - Motor build underway
94 RS - The daily Zoom-Zoom
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#19 (permalink) | |
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the awnser for solution A should always work for Solution B this is what i get for trying to help |
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