How to: Turbo Timer Wireing

[KING6]

This Was done on a 94 mx6 LS, However I got most of the info from members with 95+. I confirmed on my 95 parts car the wireing is the same.

Since the How to that Is already in the projects forum is based on pictures only and all of the pictures are missing. I ended up searching through past threads to find out how to wire a Turbo timer. I basically took everything I searched and my own experience and tossed it into an easy how to for anyone else who might need the info.

Installing the timer is quite easy and the wiring is straight forward. You will be tapping into the existing wires on the chassis harness so there is no need to chop/probe /strip and test misc wires. You can use electrical butt splices, or the electrical piggy back tap connectors.. I used shrink style butt connections since there permanent and they will keep the wires from pulling out.

If you don’t already know what a turbo timer does or how it works.
Read Here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbo_timer


Step 1. Remove the trim around the steering column. via 4 screws on the bottom.

Step 2. Remove the Dash trim.
(#10 and #3 in the diagram)



Step 3. Locate the ignition switch and the electrical plug/harness on the back of it
( I had already removed the plug prior to these pictures, but once your in there you will see it plain as day)





Step 4. Unplug the electrical plug, and the smaller plug attached to the harness. Pull the Harness out towards the bottom of the dash (in the foot area)

Step 5. Use a razor blade to cut open the taped harness. (careful not to cut the wires) Otherwise spend the time to remove the tape by hand.

Step 6. Source your wires, spread them apart on the harness so they can easily be tapped into. (picture 2)



Step 6A.
I used shrink style butt connections. Like the picture shows, I would attach the other end of the green wire that was cut into the open end to create a splice connection.



Step 7. Wire colors on the ignition electrical plug are as follows:
If your colors are different, The position of the wires on the plug should be the same (see picture 2)

+12 Volts = Black wire
Starter = Black/Yellow stripe wire
Ignition = Black/White stripe wire
Accessory = Blue wire
Second Accessory = Black/Red stripe wire

Step 8. Generally Turbo timers have the same wiring, Although some timers have other wires for optional accessories (such as boost, ignition etc). (see the manual the timer comes with)

Your Basic timer only uses 4 wires (not including ground).

Red Wire - taps into +12volts (black wire)
Green Wire - taps into Ignition (black/white stripe wire)
Blue Wire - taps into accessory (blue wire)
Purple- Connect to the Ebrake Sensor wire, or a ground source
Black Wire - Connect to a ground source

Basic Turbo timer drawing:



Step 9. once done, mount your timer. Turn the key to on position to check if the timer turns on. You can do any adjusting, and then turn the key to off position and the timer should count down and kill all the power once its done counting. If everything works correctly, Tape up the harness and button everything back up.
If you wired the timer to work with your Ebrake, Confirm the timer shuts the car off as soon as the Ebrake is off.


Final appearence of my setup:


I figured the remote style blitz timers are alot easier to locate. I chose the spot that I did simply because it was easy to access and I didnt want to be starring at it while driving.

Trouble shoot:
If it doesn’t kill the car when done counting down, check your source to the purple wire (ebrake or ground)
If it doesn’t turn on, check your wiring.

[Turk]

Excellent excellent job mate . Will come in handy in handy very soon. What you think of the intelligent timers that know when you have been thrashing it and then take longer to cool down? Or is a simple ebay one the way to go?

[KING6]

I didnt feel like pushing my luck with a generic ebay timer.

[Contempo]

Ive got a turbo timer hooked up, works no worries, only issue is my alarm wont allow me to arm until the engine turns off, it will lock the doors, but not arm itself... so if I put the timer on, I have to stand and wait for it to turn off anyway, so that I can engage alarm system...

solution... make sure you get an alarm system that supports turbo timers.

[ZE Power MX6]

Originally Posted by Contempo

Ive got a turbo timer hooked up, works no worries, only issue is my alarm wont allow me to arm until the engine turns off, it will lock the doors, but not arm itself... so if I put the timer on, I have to stand and wait for it to turn off anyway, so that I can engage alarm system...

solution... make sure you get an alarm system that supports turbo timers.

I had the same problem before but I figured out a way. First, get a wiring diagram for your alarm or at least know what wire does what. There should be a 12V source on the alarm and a 12V ignition detection wire that detect if the car is on, the 12V source goes to the big black 12V wire, and the 12V ignition detection goes to the RED ignition wire. Now, for the 12V ignition detection, tap it to the accessory wire instead which is the big BLUE one. Now look at your turbo timer wiring, there should be a 12V source, 12V ignition which keep the car running and 12V accessory which power up all the accessory while the timer is counting, unhook the 12V accessory. Now you should able to arm your car when it's still on.

What I did was, make the alarm detect the car on/off status from the accessory 12V, and have the turbo timer not power all the accessory while it's counting, who needs lights and radio when your not in the car? Therefore the alarm will think the car is off while it's still running

If your alarm has fuel cut like mine there's one thing you have to be careful. Wiring the alarm this way, the alarm will not know the car is on until the accessory wire is hot. So if you armed the car, and try to crank it, the alarm will let you. But once the car is running and the accessory wire has power, the alarm will freak out and cut the fuel cause your not supposed to crank it when with the alarm armed, I don't think that's very good for the car but I had the TT/alarm wire up this way for a year now, and I've never armed the car and try to start it hehe

BTW, I have the same TT as King

[iansmx6]

my only suggestion is to not use but splices or t-taps ... it is safer to solder all your connections.

Ive seen harnesses melt because of falty splices or taps ...

[KING6]

soldering under the dash is such a bitch.

I just used heat shrink style butt splices, Ive never had any of them pull out, Once you shrink them, there part of the wire. Also use them all day long on all of our semi trailers/trucks at work wich are subject to more abuse in a month then any car will ever see in a lifetime.

[iansmx6]

Originally Posted by Contempo

Ive got a turbo timer hooked up, works no worries, only issue is my alarm wont allow me to arm until the engine turns off, it will lock the doors, but not arm itself... so if I put the timer on, I have to stand and wait for it to turn off anyway, so that I can engage alarm system...

solution... make sure you get an alarm system that supports turbo timers.

disconnect the main ignition input to the alarm ... it will then allow you to arm. (the ignition you hooked the tt into) This way the alarm doesnt see an ignition and will elt u arm it

but make it so u can easily re attach so u can put it back if you ever need to program the alarm

[iansmx6]

Originally Posted by KING6

soldering under the dash is such a bitch.

I just used heat shrink style butt splices, Ive never had any of them pull out, Once you shrink them, there part of the wire. Also use them all day long on all of our semi trailers/trucks at work wich are subject to more abuse in a month then any car will ever see in a lifetime.

it is a biacth ... but im speaking from experience ... some people (not neccessarily you) dont connect them right and they will be loose, causing a bad connection leading to a sort or elictrical arc ...

I personally have never been a fan of any sort of tap, unless it is for an emergency repair ... Ive always soldered all fo my connections. Little more difficult, but I sleep better at night

[ZE Power MX6]

Originally Posted by iansmx6

it is a biacth ... but im speaking from experience ... some people (not neccessarily you) dont connect them right and they will be loose, causing a bad connection leading to a sort or elictrical arc ...

I personally have never been a fan of any sort of tap, unless it is for an emergency repair ... Ive always soldered all fo my connections. Little more difficult, but I sleep better at night

Tap it with these, unplugging it manually is already hard enough, so these won't be loose for sure, unless you tapped it wrong or didn't use the proper tools. I have my gauges, TT, alarm tapped with these for years, they all function properly till this day. I'm not saying soldering is bad, as an EE I know the benefit of soldering connection, but why bother when there are tools that made for these situation.

Originally Posted by iansmx6

disconnect the main ignition input to the alarm ... it will then allow you to arm. (the ignition you hooked the tt into) This way the alarm doesnt see an ignition and will elt u arm it

but make it so u can easily re attach so u can put it back if you ever need to program the alarm

DON'T just disconnect that wire, you need that to see 12V when you start the car so it reset the alarm's memory. That control how many "beep" it does when you disarm the alarm. If someone touch my car during the armed period, like hit it with a door, my alarm will beep 3 times when I disarm it, normally it only beep twices. If you disconnect that wire, it will always beep 3 times until it sees 12V.

[iansmx6]

Originally Posted by ZE Power MX6

DON'T just disconnect that wire, you need that to see 12V when you start the car so it reset the alarm's memory. That control how many "beep" it does when you disarm the alarm. If someone touch my car during the armed period, like hit it with a door, my alarm will beep 3 times when I disarm it, normally it only beep twices. If you disconnect that wire, it will always beep 3 times until it sees 12V.

actually most alarms only need to see the ignition for programming purposes, and it keep it from armign when the car is running.

The only way to give yourself the ability to arm the alarm when the tt is running is to disconnect the ignition from the alarm.

We do this on every car we install a tt on with an alarm, and have had no problems.

[ZE Power MX6]

Originally Posted by iansmx6

actually most alarms only need to see the ignition for programming purposes, and it keep it from armign when the car is running.

The only way to give yourself the ability to arm the alarm when the tt is running is to disconnect the ignition from the alarm.

We do this on every car we install a tt on with an alarm, and have had no problems.

Yes, you have to take it away from the ignition, BUT, connect it to the accessory, that way the alarm will still function properly. Read post #5, I explained it there.

[iansmx6]

Originally Posted by ZE Power MX6

Yes, you have to take it away from the ignition, BUT, connect it to the accessory, that way the alarm will still function properly. Read post #5, I explained it there.

im not gonna argue with you ... im telling you I have done this without connecting it to a wire its not supposed to be connected to with no problems.

easier way around it all, si turn on your auto arm feature if the unti has it ... then the alarm will jsut arm itself when the car shuts off

[Nealio]

Good job King.

[ZE Power MX6]

Originally Posted by iansmx6

im not gonna argue with you ... im telling you I have done this without connecting it to a wire its not supposed to be connected to with no problems.

easier way around it all, si turn on your auto arm feature if the unti has it ... then the alarm will jsut arm itself when the car shuts off

Well, I left that wire unhook at first. The alarm will always beep 3 times even no one touches it after armed. That's why I say you have to connect it somewhere that sees 12V when the car is running, other than the ignition. As a professional, you are supposed to "solve" the problem, not find ways "around" it. That is exactly why I don't take my car to a shop.

Sorry King, good write up and back to the topic