How To: Install a Lotek A-pillar 3 Gauge Pod + Run your gauges W/ Pics

**cf_z** · 1-3-08, 23:00

ive had these photos ready to do this how to for a while, so i may forget some stuff. It is pretty straight forward, and easy. I just did it if anyone was curious on how it fit/looked.

Ok so I bought the lotek 3 gauge pod from www.gaugepods.com // Lotek Inc. . It fit damn near perfect, well worth the 45 bucks or whatever it was. I also bought 2 Autometer gauges, one Boost/Vacuum, and one Oil Psi. Both ultra-lite II's. I also (thanks to all the heckling on here to get one) got an AEM EUGO gauge. 250$, but i guess knowing if your engines gonna die or not is worth it. pretty cool gauge too.

mechanical boost gauge, electronic oil psi.

So first youve got to pop off the original a pillar. Just use a screwdriver to pop off the clips. I believe there is one at the top and the bottom. Very easy. I did this before i even had the gauges, just to test fit the Lotek Pod.

It fit VERY nice:

Once i got the gauges, i realized that it would be very easy to run the boost line/electrical stuff. There is a triangle shapped panel that you can pop off and have access to under the dash.

I pre wired all of the gauges to connectors, and soldered everything before it was in the car. Sence i had one electrical gauge (psi) and one mechanical (boost) it took a bit to figure out how exactly to wire it right.

So once all that is done, i got to finally put it in the car! I started by drilling the guide holes in the A pillar for the new skrews to hold the gauge pod pilllar. I ran the boost line and the wires down thru the triangle piece and under the dash.

I got very lucky, and whoever had the car before me had run some switches under the steering wheel. They already had a positive line leading to them, so all i had to do was wire them in (i already have the halo's on the angle eyes hooked up to them, so it was relatively easy)

this is what it looked like:

and BTW, soldering guns get hot and stay hot. i burned a hole in my seat. a BIG hole. and my interior was PERFECT. i was soo pissed.

From this view, you can see the white boost line, the EUGO gauge wires, the red wire heading to the halos, and the huge battery cable running thru the grommet in the firewall.
This view is straight up from the pedals

Here is the view from the engine compartment. The boost line and eugo wire pack are not ran thru the grommet. i'll fix it someday. Red wire goes to halos, black thin wire goes to the electric oil psi gauge, medium thick black wire pack is for the eugo gauge, white tube is for the boost gauge, and the thick black wire is the battery relocation wire.

This is where i ran the boost line too, it is tee'd into the FMU line, which both go into an open nipple on the intake manifold.

Here is where the electric oil psi gauge thread into. I have it threaded into the x block i used for the turbo oil feed, and i also kept the stock oil pressure sending unit.

and last, but not nearly least, the AEM EUGO gauge has to connect into the supplied 02 sensor like meter. Instructions say on a turbo vehicle to place it at least 32" downstream of the turbo, and at a 10° angle. You weld in the supplied bung, and viola. you know your AFR. (dont hate on my downpipe, either.)

skeet skeet.

redcamls6 · 1-4-08, 0:16

looks like fun man

**neptune_51** · 1-4-08, 0:26

good call on the gauge pod. same one i have and its a quality product

**cf_z** · 1-5-08, 19:36

yeah it is great quality. ide recommend it to anyone!

**KING6** · 1-5-08, 19:53

wouldnt be a bad idea to include a finished pic, and a some wireing tips,, like where to run the tubeing for boost, where to mount the oil psi/or temp, maybe even how to do the wideband.

imo, anyone who already knows all that, would know how to install the pod itself

**cf_z** · 1-5-08, 20:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by KING6

wouldnt be a bad idea to include a finished pic, and a some wireing tips,, like where to run the tubeing for boost, where to mount the oil psi/or temp, maybe even how to do the wideband.

imo, anyone who already knows all that, would know how to install the pod itself

we can allways count on you for your -2¢

run the tubing thru the hole in the firewall. if your buying an oil psi gauge and you dont know where it goes, dont buy it. and all there is to the wideband is some clips? im not understanding where your coming from.

so imo, anyone who can order the Lotek pod in the first place, should be able to intstall it properly. its very simple. i was just doing this to help anyone who was thinking about getting one, and to prove that its way easier than i had at first thought to get the wires thru to the dash.

**KING6** · 1-5-08, 20:32

it seems like common sense that you screw new pod to the A pillar and wire up the gauges.. Anyone who cant figure that out on there own should bring the car to a shop.

Yet there will be dozens of people asking.. "where do i tap into the motor for oil psi or oil temp?" " what do i tap into on the motor for the boost/vac" or "how do I hook up my wideband..where do i mount the sensor?" and there is "how do I get my wires/ tubes through the firewall..they dont fit in the rubber"
"how do i wire them up for lights?" " where do i get the power/ground for my gauges?"

otherwise its just show and tell, and not really how to.. I know all those questions and could answer them right now (but its your how to).

**dustbin** · 1-7-08, 9:31

First of all,

Quote:

we can allways count on you for your -2¢

That is precisely why he is such a valued member of the mx6.com community. Even if he is a smart @$$ about it every now and then, the information is gold and helps alot.

I would have to say though, he has a good point in this instance. I figured out how to pull off the A-pillar a long time ago with just 2 minutes of looking around and prying. Mounting the pod is pretty self explanatory.

However, this how-to has promise. You had a great idea to run the wires through the triangle piece on the side of the dash. I think you would get big time respect for just accepting defeat and finish your write up. Answer any common wiring questions and typical turbo/guage related mumbo jumbo (forgive me for not knwing issh about turbos) and you have yourself a good solid write up with sticky possibilities.

**On sale** · 1-7-08, 16:42

I always want to have a mod like this...but not for guages...

I always want to take both side mirrors out and install 2 pinhole cameras on the side. I love the look of no mirror 6. However, I never see any monitor like that small to fill them in. I do find the camera though....

**Adaman** · 1-7-08, 18:10

I would like to know about the wiring as well. Going through that triangled piece was a good idea. Also what type of gauges did you go with? Mechanical or electric? And why. I'm very hands on but my knowledge is a little limited for this particular thing.

**cf_z** · 1-13-08, 15:26

there you go ladies.

**KING6** · 1-13-08, 15:30

there ya go son. btw your exhaust hangs really low..ever scrape it?

**cf_z** · 1-13-08, 15:46

it does hang extremely low. but no, actually i have NEVER hit the exhaust, and its my daily driver so its been tested lol. i have bottomed out once, and it was REALLY hard. my crossmember is modded different than everyone elses, and the 'bump' on the crossmember takes the hit before anything. it survived the hit without damage, and just re-upped the confidence in the man who welds everything for me.

**KING6** · 1-13-08, 16:08

Id pray you dont hit something to hard on the cross member. That thing can be the strongest part of the car, however that isnt going to do any good when it rips the bolts out of the rad support or shears the rear bolts off..if you hit..a curb.

**cf_z** · 1-13-08, 16:26

hhm. i never even thought of that happening.. now im scared haha.

1-3-08, 23:00	#1 (permalink)
cf_z Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: NE Indiana, USA Age: 18 iTrader: (16)	How To: Install a Lotek A-pillar 3 Gauge Pod + Run your gauges W/ Pics ive had these photos ready to do this how to for a while, so i may forget some stuff. It is pretty straight forward, and easy. I just did it if anyone was curious on how it fit/looked. Ok so I bought the lotek 3 gauge pod from www.gaugepods.com // Lotek Inc. . It fit damn near perfect, well worth the 45 bucks or whatever it was. I also bought 2 Autometer gauges, one Boost/Vacuum, and one Oil Psi. Both ultra-lite II's. I also (thanks to all the heckling on here to get one) got an AEM EUGO gauge. 250$, but i guess knowing if your engines gonna die or not is worth it. pretty cool gauge too. mechanical boost gauge, electronic oil psi. So first youve got to pop off the original a pillar. Just use a screwdriver to pop off the clips. I believe there is one at the top and the bottom. Very easy. I did this before i even had the gauges, just to test fit the Lotek Pod. It fit VERY nice: Once i got the gauges, i realized that it would be very easy to run the boost line/electrical stuff. There is a triangle shapped panel that you can pop off and have access to under the dash. I pre wired all of the gauges to connectors, and soldered everything before it was in the car. Sence i had one electrical gauge (psi) and one mechanical (boost) it took a bit to figure out how exactly to wire it right. So once all that is done, i got to finally put it in the car! I started by drilling the guide holes in the A pillar for the new skrews to hold the gauge pod pilllar. I ran the boost line and the wires down thru the triangle piece and under the dash. I got very lucky, and whoever had the car before me had run some switches under the steering wheel. They already had a positive line leading to them, so all i had to do was wire them in (i already have the halo's on the angle eyes hooked up to them, so it was relatively easy) this is what it looked like: and BTW, soldering guns get hot and stay hot. i burned a hole in my seat. a BIG hole. and my interior was PERFECT. i was soo pissed. From this view, you can see the white boost line, the EUGO gauge wires, the red wire heading to the halos, and the huge battery cable running thru the grommet in the firewall. This view is straight up from the pedals Here is the view from the engine compartment. The boost line and eugo wire pack are not ran thru the grommet. i'll fix it someday. Red wire goes to halos, black thin wire goes to the electric oil psi gauge, medium thick black wire pack is for the eugo gauge, white tube is for the boost gauge, and the thick black wire is the battery relocation wire. This is where i ran the boost line too, it is tee'd into the FMU line, which both go into an open nipple on the intake manifold. Here is where the electric oil psi gauge thread into. I have it threaded into the x block i used for the turbo oil feed, and i also kept the stock oil pressure sending unit. and last, but not nearly least, the AEM EUGO gauge has to connect into the supplied 02 sensor like meter. Instructions say on a turbo vehicle to place it at least 32" downstream of the turbo, and at a 10° angle. You weld in the supplied bung, and viola. you know your AFR. (dont hate on my downpipe, either.) skeet skeet. Last edited by cf_z : 1-13-08 at 15:24. Reason: FINISHED.
	MY SIX, since-day-one. WTB:2g Rear Sway bar & Strut Bar PM me. g-meter'd at 65 HP haller.

1-5-08, 19:36	#4 (permalink)
cf_z Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: NE Indiana, USA Age: 18 iTrader: (16)	yeah it is great quality. ide recommend it to anyone!
	MY SIX, since-day-one. WTB:2g Rear Sway bar & Strut Bar PM me. g-meter'd at 65 HP haller.

1-5-08, 19:53	#5 (permalink)
KING6 Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Central, USA Age: 24 iTrader: (21)	wouldnt be a bad idea to include a finished pic, and a some wireing tips,, like where to run the tubeing for boost, where to mount the oil psi/or temp, maybe even how to do the wideband. imo, anyone who already knows all that, would know how to install the pod itself
	The King OF AFTERMARKET/USED PARTS F/S F/S K6F Radiator support brackets, fuse box covers, egr block offs < 94/LS-T -possibly for sale. B.O

1-5-08, 20:32	#7 (permalink)
KING6 Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Central, USA Age: 24 iTrader: (21)	it seems like common sense that you screw new pod to the A pillar and wire up the gauges.. Anyone who cant figure that out on there own should bring the car to a shop. Yet there will be dozens of people asking.. "where do i tap into the motor for oil psi or oil temp?" " what do i tap into on the motor for the boost/vac" or "how do I hook up my wideband..where do i mount the sensor?" and there is "how do I get my wires/ tubes through the firewall..they dont fit in the rubber" "how do i wire them up for lights?" " where do i get the power/ground for my gauges?" otherwise its just show and tell, and not really how to.. I know all those questions and could answer them right now (but its your how to). Last edited by KING6 : 1-5-08 at 20:38.
	The King OF AFTERMARKET/USED PARTS F/S F/S K6F Radiator support brackets, fuse box covers, egr block offs < 94/LS-T -possibly for sale. B.O

1-7-08, 16:42	#9 (permalink)
On sale Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: California, CA, USA Age: 30 iTrader: (0)	I always want to have a mod like this...but not for guages... I always want to take both side mirrors out and install 2 pinhole cameras on the side. I love the look of no mirror 6. However, I never see any monitor like that small to fill them in. I do find the camera though....
	Just sold my 911 & got a 08 750i, but crashed........ My Rides: 01 740IL, 93 MX6, 99 Z3, 05 CLK 500AMG My Wife: 03 ML 350, 01 CL500

1-4-08, 0:16	#2 (permalink)
redcamls6 Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Tucson, AZ, USA Age: 21 iTrader: (0)	looks like fun man

1-7-08, 18:10	#10 (permalink)
Adaman Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Oregon City, OR, USA Age: 21 iTrader: (0)	I would like to know about the wiring as well. Going through that triangled piece was a good idea. Also what type of gauges did you go with? Mechanical or electric? And why. I'm very hands on but my knowledge is a little limited for this particular thing.
	In the Works: KLDE with T3 Turbonetics turbo/ .60trim, 370cc injectors, MSD, AFPR, Megasquirt PnP, intercooled with 2" mandrel piping, performance cams, CenterforceStage 3 clutch, fidanza 9lb flywheel, Greddy SP1 Catback exhaust, SEIBON Carbon fiber hood, RX7 FD Rims, Hubert the Parrotlesss ASPEC Retro fitted HID's, and 05 SI Front seats. Daily Driver: 4dr 07 SI...Stock for now.

1-13-08, 15:26	#11 (permalink)
cf_z Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: NE Indiana, USA Age: 18 iTrader: (16)	there you go ladies.
	MY SIX, since-day-one. WTB:2g Rear Sway bar & Strut Bar PM me. g-meter'd at 65 HP haller.

1-13-08, 15:30	#12 (permalink)
KING6 Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Central, USA Age: 24 iTrader: (21)	there ya go son. btw your exhaust hangs really low..ever scrape it?
	The King OF AFTERMARKET/USED PARTS F/S F/S K6F Radiator support brackets, fuse box covers, egr block offs < 94/LS-T -possibly for sale. B.O

1-13-08, 15:46	#13 (permalink)
cf_z Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: NE Indiana, USA Age: 18 iTrader: (16)	it does hang extremely low. but no, actually i have NEVER hit the exhaust, and its my daily driver so its been tested lol. i have bottomed out once, and it was REALLY hard. my crossmember is modded different than everyone elses, and the 'bump' on the crossmember takes the hit before anything. it survived the hit without damage, and just re-upped the confidence in the man who welds everything for me.
	MY SIX, since-day-one. WTB:2g Rear Sway bar & Strut Bar PM me. g-meter'd at 65 HP haller.

1-13-08, 16:08	#14 (permalink)
KING6 Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Central, USA Age: 24 iTrader: (21)	Id pray you dont hit something to hard on the cross member. That thing can be the strongest part of the car, however that isnt going to do any good when it rips the bolts out of the rad support or shears the rear bolts off..if you hit..a curb.
	The King OF AFTERMARKET/USED PARTS F/S F/S K6F Radiator support brackets, fuse box covers, egr block offs < 94/LS-T -possibly for sale. B.O

1-13-08, 16:26	#15 (permalink)
cf_z Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: NE Indiana, USA Age: 18 iTrader: (16)	hhm. i never even thought of that happening.. now im scared haha.
	MY SIX, since-day-one. WTB:2g Rear Sway bar & Strut Bar PM me. g-meter'd at 65 HP haller.