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#1 (permalink) |
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shaving
I want to shave my trunk, all emblems and trunk key hole. I'm not sure how I would go about getting everything off. I tried searching but didn't really find any threads that said how to do it, lots of them that talk about shaving the trunk but no real how-to.
I had another question too but I can't remember what it was. I'll post later if I remember. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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I think it's assumed that if you can't remove your own emblems and trunk lock then you probably shouldn't be shaving your own trunk either.
![]() Just take a good look at the lock and you'll figure it out. And you may want to think about doing what I did... as far as the lock goes: ![]() |
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My Garage*KLZE*Spec Stage 2*9lb Fidanza Flywheel*Borla CatBack*Hot Shot Headers*RR-Racing Inserts*Ksports*22mm Addco RSB*B&M STS*Outlaw Spacers*Stainless Brake/clutch lines*VOA BBK Front/Rear*Black Altezza Tails*JDM Door Sills*Jspec Headlights*Molded Shogun Body Kit/scoop*Shaved*Front/Rear Camera*Custom Interior*Painted Engine bay*Dynamat Trunk/Doors*Aluminium Gauge Rings*Interior/Exterior LEDs*
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#3 (permalink) |
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Properly shaving is a pain in the ass. First remove everything you want to shave (obviously), then weld everything up. Then grind the welds down so they're even with the body, and paint.
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http://www.redlinegoods.com/cgi-bin/...1&aid=195&p=34
Words should be a little wild, For they are the assault of thought on the unthinking. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Does he look like a bitch
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So the spoiler and emblem holes you will have to weld those they are just to small. They dont hold filler that well and no way to get glass behind them.
As for the keyhole you can get glass behind it, although its a bit of a pain in the ass. Then fill with Duraglass. This is a filler/fiber glass mix and is very strong. Then use filler, and then use some iceing. Then seal. I did the trunk myself in this manner and has held up great for four years. P.S the lock is really easy to take out. |
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Scooby 3; 20 says:
"And there shall be flames, and in teh center of this flames there shall a thread, and forth on teh flamming and teh lulz be had, for this thread is legendary, and its winess shall be glorious. A so forth teh mods will look over, granting their wiseness, and unleashing teh banhamm0r on those sinners and non believers. Thy is teh werd, and thy shall be done" |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Just saw this thread.
Do it right and use a welder. For small holes get a piece of brass flat bar 1/2" x 1/4" and put it in behind the hole. when the hole is filled, remove brass and do your next one. For larger holes (lock, antenna, doorhandles) put masking tape over top of the holes. Trace out hole. Remove tape. Place tape on new material(same gage as car sheet metal) Cut filler plate out. Hold your piece of brass across the back of where you are welding (helps dissipate heat and stops blow through) Spot weld only!!!! And don't get the area to hot. When hole is all welded up, grind down with a feathering disk. Skim with a little filler(shouldn't need much) Sand and Paint Looks good and lasts forever Not saying the other way is totaly wrong, it's just not right LOL L88888888 B |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Here's mine...welded of course. ![]() ![]() Finished product: (Sorry it's of the whole car...this is like the only ass end shot I have lol) ![]() |
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-Matt-
1994 Mazda MX6 LS, Infiniti G35 HID conversion, 2.5" Magnaflow cat-back, 3" CAI, 16x8" FD RX7 wheels, LEDA Custom True Coilovers, shaved body and full repaint, Genuine Mazdaspeed Kit, '03 Protege rear caliper conversion, and much, much more... |
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#8 (permalink) |
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yeah thanks guys.. I've had pretty much everything off now (even though I had to put it all back on for now cause it'll be a little while till I paint) and I think it will like real nice when I get done with it.
I've got another question though.. Is it necessary to have all that extra metal on the trunk lid? I was thinking that if you cut it off it would probably save an aweful lot of weight back there.. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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"All that extra metal" is what keeps your trunk and hood from bowing and flexing. You remove that not only does it deplete your crumple zones but chances are they may not retain their shape so well.
Leave them alone. |
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My Garage*KLZE*Spec Stage 2*9lb Fidanza Flywheel*Borla CatBack*Hot Shot Headers*RR-Racing Inserts*Ksports*22mm Addco RSB*B&M STS*Outlaw Spacers*Stainless Brake/clutch lines*VOA BBK Front/Rear*Black Altezza Tails*JDM Door Sills*Jspec Headlights*Molded Shogun Body Kit/scoop*Shaved*Front/Rear Camera*Custom Interior*Painted Engine bay*Dynamat Trunk/Doors*Aluminium Gauge Rings*Interior/Exterior LEDs*
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#11 (permalink) |
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why brass? sheet metal is just as fine.
thats what i used and it looked perfect. Patch, weld, fill, sand, putty, sand, primer, base, clear ![]() for the smaller holes i just welded it, with no use of a brass doins. id find the pic but im too lazy.' feen |
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The f3n0r<-- sig touched by scooby
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Try welding up the small holes without brass and then with a brass backer. You'll see. Try mig or stick welding brass some time....not so good. L8888888 B. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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i have and if you know how to weld, you dont need the brass....its technique. Welding jsut doesnt come in one night it takes a while to get used to it, and get good at it.
if you blow bigger holes you have too much heat and the wire speed isnt fast enough. Btw Ive welded MIG, TIG, Aluminum, Brass (harder), and torch welding. Mig is the best! feen |
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The f3n0r<-- sig touched by scooby
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#14 (permalink) |
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Not all of us are welders, brass or copper backing makes things a lot easier.
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http://www.redlinegoods.com/cgi-bin/...1&aid=195&p=34
Words should be a little wild, For they are the assault of thought on the unthinking. |
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