Oil grade for turbo'd KLDE

Tem · 4-25-08, 16:59

Firstly I apologize if this has been said 20 million times but I searching for 20 minutes and didn't find anything related to this.

I've been researching and reading up and looking at stuff .. and Oil came to mind.. since with the turbo set up the car WILL RUN HOTTER... would it not be better to use a higher viscosity oil?

IE like racing oils which are designed to take on the extra heat. and mayb instead of the OEM 30 weight mayb a 40... but ofcourse this contridicts " Maximum Boost" since the book says that an oil with a high variant IE 5-40 Vs a 20-40 would be worse for the car due to the chemicals that are added ot the oil to give it its variant... but you want a thin oil so that it works well on cold startups which is where most engine wear happens... so I guess its a give and take here...

what are your opinions on this matter.

**KING6** · 4-25-08, 18:48

I use 5w30.

My motor doesnt run any hotter with a turbo.

Tem · 4-25-08, 20:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by KING6

I use 5w30.

My motor doesnt run any hotter with a turbo.

yeah but in theory doesnt the turbo itself heat up really bad and needs to be extra cooled or are the turbos which I'm supposed to install come with water cooling .. that means i need to reroute water to...

**KING6** · 4-25-08, 20:50

water cooled you just tap into the heater hose

**Goatcrapp** · 5-4-08, 23:27

I'm a big fan of water cooled turbos.

and while the turbo *is* a source of heat - I haven't done the equations, but it does contribute to the total btu count that the cooling system has to compensate for... its not something the driver should ever notice if you have a properly functioning cooling system, and aren't over-running its capacity to cool.

All that would happen is that your thermostat will open more frequently [mangina]il you hit a ceiling, such as endurance driving under boost, + very hot days, etc.. in which case the stock stuff may not be able to keep up.)

As for oil - we have an interesting issue having hydraulic lifters.

Turbos tend to operate better with a thicker oil, which helps prevent cavitation and foaming (which will effect the drain performance, and also potentially help oil to work its way past the bearing seals in the turbo)

HLA equipped vehicles tend to like a lighter oil. I wouldn't run a 40 or 50 weight in a KL, personally - though i know plenty who have, espeically road racing - and for similar reasons as above, except as it pertains to the oil pan and keeping oil in the engine during a highspeed sweep.

with that said - any good quality modern oil will have enough resistance to foaming. stick with a standard 5 or 10 winter rating, depending on how cold you get in your area, and a 30 weight rating.

Its far more important to keep your oil CLEAN than worry about weight so much. an old turbo might burp up a thinner oil.. but thats just its way of telling you it needs a center cartridge rebuild lol.

**Radar** · 5-5-08, 11:19

I ran 10w30 for years....now with a little leaky valve seal on an old tired engine, I've run 20w50 for the last few months....no matter...engine comes out this weekend.

**mushkid** · 5-13-08, 15:26

Royal purple!!!!! lol

**DrBrown** · 5-16-08, 20:22

Anyone ever try running just a straight 10 or 15 weight oil? A lot of the 3800 guys run that in the regals and have success with their built engines. Ive been running 5w30 castrol gtx and no burning at all and the turbo doesnt seem to be coking the oil so Im happy with that. The other oils I tried in my old motor all burned but this gtx stuff resists the heat great.

**Turk** · 5-17-08, 19:02

I stick with my Motul 10w 40. Good for turbo, good for slightly old engine that still gets its tits revved off once a week. Not to expensive.

Have been thinking of moving to the Castrol 10w 30 edge stuff. Was told to go 5w 60, but that [shizzle] is $80!!

**KING6** · 5-17-08, 20:06

yeah why spend $80 for oil on a motor that has a high probability of blowing a rod through the block and leaking all of it out anyway.

**Turk** · 5-17-08, 22:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by KING6

yeah why spend $80 for oil on a motor that has a high probability of blowing a rod through the block and leaking all of it out anyway.

Exactly my thinking. No point spending big money on expensive oil that is supposed to prolong the life of an engine that has a lifespan of no more then say 5 years since you add boost. Doesnt mean you go with something that will go black in 2 days and or recyceld oil or anything. Just find a mid point.

**H_Type** · 7-7-08, 1:02

Just save up your Bacon Fat, I heard that stuff is the shizzle. :P I say run Mobil1 5w30

4-25-08, 16:59	#1 (permalink)
Tem Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Miami, FL, USA Age: 22 iTrader: (0)	Oil grade for turbo'd KLDE Firstly I apologize if this has been said 20 million times but I searching for 20 minutes and didn't find anything related to this. I've been researching and reading up and looking at stuff .. and Oil came to mind.. since with the turbo set up the car WILL RUN HOTTER... would it not be better to use a higher viscosity oil? IE like racing oils which are designed to take on the extra heat. and mayb instead of the OEM 30 weight mayb a 40... but ofcourse this contridicts " Maximum Boost" since the book says that an oil with a high variant IE 5-40 Vs a 20-40 would be worse for the car due to the chemicals that are added ot the oil to give it its variant... but you want a thin oil so that it works well on cold startups which is where most engine wear happens... so I guess its a give and take here... what are your opinions on this matter.
	Everything thats dangerous is Fun! But not everything thats fun is dangerous! 93 MX-6 LS http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3041999

4-25-08, 18:48	#2 (permalink)
KING6 Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Central, USA Age: 24 iTrader: (14)	I use 5w30. My motor doesnt run any hotter with a turbo.
	The King OF AFTERMARKET/USED PARTS F/S F/S K6F Radiator support brackets, fuse box covers, egr block offs < 94/LS-T -possibly for sale. B.O

4-25-08, 20:50	#4 (permalink)
KING6 Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Central, USA Age: 24 iTrader: (14)	water cooled you just tap into the heater hose
	The King OF AFTERMARKET/USED PARTS F/S F/S K6F Radiator support brackets, fuse box covers, egr block offs < 94/LS-T -possibly for sale. B.O

5-4-08, 23:27	#5 (permalink)
Goatcrapp Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: brooklyn, NY Age: 29 iTrader: (2)	I'm a big fan of water cooled turbos. and while the turbo is a source of heat - I haven't done the equations, but it does contribute to the total btu count that the cooling system has to compensate for... its not something the driver should ever notice if you have a properly functioning cooling system, and aren't over-running its capacity to cool. All that would happen is that your thermostat will open more frequently [mangina]il you hit a ceiling, such as endurance driving under boost, + very hot days, etc.. in which case the stock stuff may not be able to keep up.) As for oil - we have an interesting issue having hydraulic lifters. Turbos tend to operate better with a thicker oil, which helps prevent cavitation and foaming (which will effect the drain performance, and also potentially help oil to work its way past the bearing seals in the turbo) HLA equipped vehicles tend to like a lighter oil. I wouldn't run a 40 or 50 weight in a KL, personally - though i know plenty who have, espeically road racing - and for similar reasons as above, except as it pertains to the oil pan and keeping oil in the engine during a highspeed sweep. with that said - any good quality modern oil will have enough resistance to foaming. stick with a standard 5 or 10 winter rating, depending on how cold you get in your area, and a 30 weight rating. Its far more important to keep your oil CLEAN than worry about weight so much. an old turbo might burp up a thinner oil.. but thats just its way of telling you it needs a center cartridge rebuild lol.
	MX6 #1 [x]Turbo [x]Big Brakes [x]Jspec headlights [x]HID [x]K-Sport Coilovers [x]MSefi [x]Liquid/air I/C [x] 44 kit [x]108mph 1320 [x]oem lip decklid spoiler [x]misc [ ...] done? [x]MX6 #2. SOLD [x]Toyota Paseo. 42MPG. [x]5.9 Jeep. #1's tow vehicle. Still faster than most KL's.//Modifications List

5-5-08, 11:19	#6 (permalink)
Radar The Full Dong Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Hollywood/FL, FL, USA Age: 25 iTrader: (2)	I ran 10w30 for years....now with a little leaky valve seal on an old tired engine, I've run 20w50 for the last few months....no matter...engine comes out this weekend.
	KLZE Turbo-SHAODOME @ PROBETALK Successfully Megasquirted: 94 MX6-ZEt, 92 MX3 ZE, 94 MX6 LS, 96 PGT ZE, 96 PGT w/ every bolton, 93 PGT, 93 PGTZE, 95 PGT ZE, Celica GTS built 20v-turbo, 95 PGT, 97 PGT ZE, 97 MX6 KLZE, 97 PGT w/ botlons, Mazguy's Built MX-6 Turbo, 97 Mustang V6 EDIS, Delorean with a T70 Turbo, and a 87' Built 1.8t VW Golf (25psi),97 SE-T. No more sig space 351whp/313tq

5-16-08, 20:22	#8 (permalink)
DrBrown Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Ohio Age: 27 iTrader: (1)	Anyone ever try running just a straight 10 or 15 weight oil? A lot of the 3800 guys run that in the regals and have success with their built engines. Ive been running 5w30 castrol gtx and no burning at all and the turbo doesnt seem to be coking the oil so Im happy with that. The other oils I tried in my old motor all burned but this gtx stuff resists the heat great.
	*~Dan Brown~* 1995 Probe GT-Turbo - 287whp 307lb-ft 8.7:1 Forged Pistons :: Millenia-S Rods :: ZE Heads/Cams :: MSnSe :: MSD 6a :: NGK Wires :: Eibachs & KYB's Walbro 255 :: GReddy IC :: Nissan 370 Injectors :: Aeromotive FPR :: DSM BOV :: SB DxD :: AEM W/B My Probe Website

5-17-08, 19:02	#9 (permalink)
Turk Veteran Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sydney, Australia Age: 20 iTrader: (2)	I stick with my Motul 10w 40. Good for turbo, good for slightly old engine that still gets its tits revved off once a week. Not to expensive. Have been thinking of moving to the Castrol 10w 30 edge stuff. Was told to go 5w 60, but that [shizzle] is $80!!
	Turbo charged, intercooled and Megasquirted KLZE -RB25DET injectors and other boost related goodies - Custom PP Exedy HD Clutch - 2.5" turboback - DBA Slotted x4, EBC Greens - 17" Superlight forged Regamaster Rims - My car (before turbo) http://www.mx6.com/forums/gallery/19...56k-no-go.html

5-17-08, 20:06	#10 (permalink)
KING6 Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Central, USA Age: 24 iTrader: (14)	yeah why spend $80 for oil on a motor that has a high probability of blowing a rod through the block and leaking all of it out anyway.
	The King OF AFTERMARKET/USED PARTS F/S F/S K6F Radiator support brackets, fuse box covers, egr block offs < 94/LS-T -possibly for sale. B.O