help me justify megasquirt!

**cf_z** · 5-2-08, 20:04

So i kinda realized that megasquirt is about the last thing ive got to have a full (/good?) turbocharged setup. Ive realized that im getting like 13 mpg in the city (and thats even with decent driving), more than likely because im at 10:1 fuel ratios in boost.

But, as i am going off to college in 2 months, i need all the money i can save. I originally thought i was gonna sell this car and buy something a little more 'normal', but i soon realized that i cant take that kind of loss. im just gonna drive it till it blows up

.

I know nothing about megasquirt other than its another computer that handles the fuel.

a few questions:

Does anyone have their fmu VS megasquirt gas mileages? (or estimate?)

If i cannot (ever) get the megasquirt tuned, would i still be better off using the basemap that it is sent to me on than my current fmu?

I dont have a laptop. do i need one?

really, How hard is it to install? and is there any possiblities that it can mess something else up?

Should i just get a 6:1 (or so?) recalibration unit for my fmu?

**KING6** · 5-2-08, 21:25

Get a Megasquirt, Or Ill Kick you in the nuts.

, you need a laptop.. I just got a cheap one off ebay for like $200 shipped, its worked great. It doesnt require much on the computer, Though a long lasting battery is good to have.

Its not that hard, any you will have lots more control with just a simple unit. There are enough basemaps out there to get you started as well.

**Turk** · 5-2-08, 21:45

Gas mileage will be from what ive seen, much better. Better as in you will pay off the MS just on the gas mileage thing in a few months for sure. Driving on bigger injectors with just lower fuel pressure still means you are drinking through more fuel then you should even when you are not on boost.

Ask King about the basemap and FMU. I would say so from videos ive seen. power is more linear, and definately safer. Your running stock timing, I would say that the reason the MS basemaps might not go as hard with an FMU is because the timing is quite retarded to be on the safe side. I drive around on my basemap pretty much, only touched it up a bit on my own. Also at the end of the day, you can wait a few months and then save up another couple of hundred and get someone else to tune it for you on the dyno.

It is so piss easy to install. Instructions all there, colour coded and wiring diagrams. took me 2 hours(really taking my time), If I had to do it again, 30 mins I could push it over I reckon.

No.

**Chefsp0t** · 5-2-08, 23:05

Everything already mentioned.

-No more MAF sensor if you decide to go with velocity air instead. This will free up some restriction in your setup.
-A good shop will be able to maximize power/efficiency from your motor.

A base map is a great starting point. Every car is different, so it's a good idea to take some time to "fix" the base maps to suit your motor. You will be able to save gas with a decent tune too.

**Stealth** · 5-3-08, 23:21

The good thing about MS, is that you can have 2 tunes. 1 for gas mileage going to school and back / around town, and 2 for your boosting needs.

This would allow you to drive around safely and maximize gas mileage when you need to yet get the max performance over a FMU.

Although you could take the best of both worlds and try to make 1 tune, and just take it easy on the lead foot.

_Edit_ Nevermind the 2 tunes. Its basically 1 tune without boosting to save Gas mileage.

< speaks jibberish

**KING6** · 5-3-08, 23:44

Here's something ive been thinking about for a while..

is it possible to change settings to decrease the cars driveabilty..maybe over boost protection? Example: I want to bring my car into get an alignment, But I dont want some loser at the tire shop taking my car out for a test drive. Because it happend before.

**Stealth** · 5-4-08, 0:06

Put your boost controller to 1 psi? or whatever your WG spring is at?

Did you have an EBC in your setup i cant remember?

**KING6** · 5-4-08, 1:04

I have an EBC, but you cant decrease boost past what the spring is rate to, that is 4psi.

**Turk** · 5-4-08, 2:19

Ask to ride with him. I have thought about doing it before, because I dont trust the asses either.

Suppose you could just retard the timing real hard above 3000rpm. Or just richen it up heaps above 3000.

**Radar** · 5-4-08, 9:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by KING6

Here's something ive been thinking about for a while..

is it possible to change settings to decrease the cars driveabilty..maybe over boost protection? Example: I want to bring my car into get an alignment, But I dont want some loser at the tire shop taking my car out for a test drive. Because it happend before.

I just set the MS rev limiter to 3000rpm for things like that and just let them know a head of time so if they go drive it to test the alignment, they won't be revving passed that if they needed to get outta the way of traffic.

N2oKLZE · 5-4-08, 23:43

to help you justify buying megasquirt as far as the install goes. I just got mine from radar on Friday and on saturday it took 15 mins to tap and cut all the wires needed and about 30mins to wire the harness the rest of my time was spent makeing it look good. i havent gotten a chance to play with the tuneing yet but if your worried about it being hard to install dont be scared

5-2-08, 20:04	#1 (permalink)
cf_z Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: NE Indiana, USA Age: 18 iTrader: (14)	help me justify megasquirt! So i kinda realized that megasquirt is about the last thing ive got to have a full (/good?) turbocharged setup. Ive realized that im getting like 13 mpg in the city (and thats even with decent driving), more than likely because im at 10:1 fuel ratios in boost. But, as i am going off to college in 2 months, i need all the money i can save. I originally thought i was gonna sell this car and buy something a little more 'normal', but i soon realized that i cant take that kind of loss. im just gonna drive it till it blows up . I know nothing about megasquirt other than its another computer that handles the fuel. a few questions: Does anyone have their fmu VS megasquirt gas mileages? (or estimate?) If i cannot (ever) get the megasquirt tuned, would i still be better off using the basemap that it is sent to me on than my current fmu? I dont have a laptop. do i need one? really, How hard is it to install? and is there any possiblities that it can mess something else up? Should i just get a 6:1 (or so?) recalibration unit for my fmu?
	MY SIX, since-day-one. WTB:2g Rear Sway bar & Strut Bar PM me. g-meter'd at 65 HP haller.

5-2-08, 21:25	#2 (permalink)
KING6 Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Central, USA Age: 24 iTrader: (21)	Get a Megasquirt, Or Ill Kick you in the nuts. , you need a laptop.. I just got a cheap one off ebay for like $200 shipped, its worked great. It doesnt require much on the computer, Though a long lasting battery is good to have. Its not that hard, any you will have lots more control with just a simple unit. There are enough basemaps out there to get you started as well.
	The King OF AFTERMARKET/USED PARTS F/S F/S K6F Radiator support brackets, fuse box covers, egr block offs < 94/LS-T -possibly for sale. B.O

5-2-08, 21:45	#3 (permalink)
Turk Veteran Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sydney, Australia Age: 20 iTrader: (5)	Gas mileage will be from what ive seen, much better. Better as in you will pay off the MS just on the gas mileage thing in a few months for sure. Driving on bigger injectors with just lower fuel pressure still means you are drinking through more fuel then you should even when you are not on boost. Ask King about the basemap and FMU. I would say so from videos ive seen. power is more linear, and definately safer. Your running stock timing, I would say that the reason the MS basemaps might not go as hard with an FMU is because the timing is quite retarded to be on the safe side. I drive around on my basemap pretty much, only touched it up a bit on my own. Also at the end of the day, you can wait a few months and then save up another couple of hundred and get someone else to tune it for you on the dyno. It is so piss easy to install. Instructions all there, colour coded and wiring diagrams. took me 2 hours(really taking my time), If I had to do it again, 30 mins I could push it over I reckon. No.
	174kw at 9psi KLDE-T

5-2-08, 23:05	#4 (permalink)
Chefsp0t I carry the Ban-Pan. Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: near Philly, PA, USA Age: 24 iTrader: (2)	Everything already mentioned. -No more MAF sensor if you decide to go with velocity air instead. This will free up some restriction in your setup. -A good shop will be able to maximize power/efficiency from your motor. A base map is a great starting point. Every car is different, so it's a good idea to take some time to "fix" the base maps to suit your motor. You will be able to save gas with a decent tune too.
	My car is going to be the bastard love child of a JDM, ESPEC, and USDM Mx6 threesome. It's getting there. Garage Cardomain

5-3-08, 23:21	#5 (permalink)
Stealth Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Trying to stay at home Age: 24 iTrader: (2)	The good thing about MS, is that you can have 2 tunes. 1 for gas mileage going to school and back / around town, and 2 for your boosting needs. This would allow you to drive around safely and maximize gas mileage when you need to yet get the max performance over a FMU. Although you could take the best of both worlds and try to make 1 tune, and just take it easy on the lead foot. _Edit_ Nevermind the 2 tunes. Its basically 1 tune without boosting to save Gas mileage. < speaks jibberish
	Current Location : Saint Michael MN Project Silo CF Dash with TV CHEAP

5-3-08, 23:44	#6 (permalink)
KING6 Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Central, USA Age: 24 iTrader: (21)	Here's something ive been thinking about for a while.. is it possible to change settings to decrease the cars driveabilty..maybe over boost protection? Example: I want to bring my car into get an alignment, But I dont want some loser at the tire shop taking my car out for a test drive. Because it happend before.
	The King OF AFTERMARKET/USED PARTS F/S F/S K6F Radiator support brackets, fuse box covers, egr block offs < 94/LS-T -possibly for sale. B.O

5-4-08, 0:06	#7 (permalink)
Stealth Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Trying to stay at home Age: 24 iTrader: (2)	Put your boost controller to 1 psi? or whatever your WG spring is at? Did you have an EBC in your setup i cant remember?
	Current Location : Saint Michael MN Project Silo CF Dash with TV CHEAP

5-4-08, 1:04	#8 (permalink)
KING6 Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Central, USA Age: 24 iTrader: (21)	I have an EBC, but you cant decrease boost past what the spring is rate to, that is 4psi.
	The King OF AFTERMARKET/USED PARTS F/S F/S K6F Radiator support brackets, fuse box covers, egr block offs < 94/LS-T -possibly for sale. B.O

5-4-08, 2:19	#9 (permalink)
Turk Veteran Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sydney, Australia Age: 20 iTrader: (5)	Ask to ride with him. I have thought about doing it before, because I dont trust the asses either. Suppose you could just retard the timing real hard above 3000rpm. Or just richen it up heaps above 3000.
	174kw at 9psi KLDE-T

5-4-08, 23:43	#11 (permalink)
N2oKLZE Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: rexburg, ID, USA Age: 25 iTrader: (0)	to help you justify buying megasquirt as far as the install goes. I just got mine from radar on Friday and on saturday it took 15 mins to tap and cut all the wires needed and about 30mins to wire the harness the rest of my time was spent makeing it look good. i havent gotten a chance to play with the tuneing yet but if your worried about it being hard to install dont be scared