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Mazda MX6 V6 Turbo How-To Video

9K views 26 replies 4 participants last post by  pigeon853 
#1 ·
hi guys. im working on turbo-ing my car and decided to make a how to for every step of the process. i will post the videos up as i finish each step. world first!
 
#2 · (Edited)
1994 Mazda MX6 N/A Baseline Dyno Run 12/26/14: http://youtu.be/TR1eOqyF5eU


Installing Intercooler: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_RgnVFrq-Uk&feature=youtu.be

How To: MX6 Fuel Pressure Gauge Install: http://youtu.be/anMmDJyCrBY


How To: Wrap Headers on MX6 V6 KLDE Turbo: http://youtu.be/irhs_d8f82s

How To: Fuel Pump Upgrade MX6: http://youtu.be/RQYvWaT5L5c

How To: Battery Relocation MX6: http://youtu.be/SjJjnFl0QcU

How to: AFPR Install MX6: http://youtu.be/0GP3nL_CVVU

How To: Transmission Saver Bracket MX6: http://youtu.be/4rWOHbAgvVM

How To: Turbo Oil System MX6: http://youtu.be/BXUhsgez6Nc

How To: Turbo Headers MX6: http://youtu.be/2Gt3Ot7tl80

How To: Turbo Support Bracket MX6: http://youtu.be/G6185mRUU28

How To: Apexi AFC Neo Installation MX6: http://youtu.be/DqmZHDjU704

How To: Millenia S Injectors MX6: http://youtu.be/8p9CgaDr72E

How To: Intercooler Piping MX6: http://youtu.be/UU47sBEilLA
 
#4 ·
I dunno man, I hate to be a flamer but you might need to have experience installing a turbo setup on a mx6 prior to making a "how to" this is more of a self documentation of your setup for others to get an idea.

Also installing the intercooler is one of the last things you do., when you do it the bumper cover needs to be off. right now you have no clue where your going to need pipes to be routed because you dont have anything on the engine yet, zipties and that flimsy metal isnt suitable for mounting a intercooler either, especially if your going to route the pipes under the radiator support. Go to a home depot/lowes and get some 3/16 Flat Iron or Aluminum. You dont want your intercooler draging on the road later on.
 
#5 ·
Thank you for the advice king. Of course this is just me documenting how I do mine with a step by step. There are many ways to do things and I'm just showing people one way to do it:) I have a pretty good idea of how I'm going to do my pipes and Ill keep you guys posted when I upload more videos. Your input is appreciated tho. I assure you.
 
#7 ·
Just a heads up, there is a blank firewall grommet right below the brake booster, and there is a firewall grommet for the ECM harness behind the motor that can easily be used to route wires thru. Could have used less wire and a cleaner install. I cringe anytime I see someones car wired up thru the door.

And you can tap tap the feed hose to the fuel rail from the fuel filter for fuel pressure as well, witch also gives a cleaner look and no need for extra hose.
 
#8 ·
I recently learned that because our fueling setup is single in single out, that there is a 10psi drop in pressure between rail one and two.

Putting the sensor between the rails gives me an average pressure for each.

(Although if I would have known, I would have put it before the filter)

Thanks!
 
#9 ·
You can put it anywhere before the regulator, the pressure is always going to be the same. :shrug: "If "you had a drop of 10psi between rails that would mean you have no way to accurately control fuel pressure between rails, most fmu's people use raise pressure in 10-12psi incriments. You would always be leaner or richer on one rail regardless of where you tapped for a gauge.
 
#10 ·
I heard that is why people run dual feed fuel rails! Idk man. I saw on PT where someone put a sensor after each rail and it was a 10psi drop by the time it got to the second rail.

I talked to some old KL guys and they said this is why cylinder 6 dies first when you run lean. Because it gets the least fuel.

http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701079327

My source

I know how the regulator is supposed to work, but ive read that it works well enough for n/a but can become a problem when you push more fuel, as the front bank runs leaner than the rear?
 
#11 ·
naw, if that was the case then you absolutely would have to run a dual feed setup for any FI application. 10psi difference is to big of a difference to let fly. Dual feed became more of a appearence thing. Even the turbo 300ZX's run fuel rails like we have..

Far as #6 going bad first, never read that. All thats even been said about #6 is the oil passages dont flow enough oil, witch cause it to go first.

Running lean, exploding motors has more to do with bad tuning and cheap setups. If you have a crappy FMU that only sometimes responds to boost or doesnt increase enough to keep you in the 12's and you have no way to keep temps down.. probably gonna be detonating.
 
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