Turbos

[Fastest95PGT]

Originally Posted by KING6

I did, but there is not much room to work with, I KNOW i could have done it by not going between the motor and rad, but then id have to sacrifice the IC size, and the Foglights. In wich the IC i got fit the bumper opening perfectly, and I was keeping the foglights no matter what. They barely fit as is,

I also didnt want any pipes under the chassis, i know alot of people go under the the radiator to the front of the car...

There should be bigger priorities than fog lights.. like bumper supports.

As far as running piping under the radiator support, it'd be completely out of sight with the stock bumper installed. The rest of your exhaust is lower.

[KING6]

My bumper support is on, unmodded.

Under the frame may be out of sight, I just dont see it being very professional.

[Fastest95PGT]

Originally Posted by KING6

Under the frame may be out of sight, I just dont see it being very professional.

You're right. Saving 1 foot of piping by running it between one item that's 150+ degrees (radiator) and another that's 800?+ degrees (primaries) is the most professional idea possible.

My IATs never go more than 20 over ambient even when it's dyno queen for a day.

[KING6]

I can alwase rap the headers, I actually have tons of wrap.. just never cared to put it on. I dont think its going to hurt the performance. Im not looking to squeeze every ounce of power i can get out of it anyway.

I wanted a clean, professional setup. Pipes under my car, scraping over speedbumps, scraping on inclines.. is not my idea of a good install.
I wouldnt pay anyone to do it that way.

[Fastest95PGT]

There are 3 things that come to mind, at least one has to be true..

1. Your area has abnormally high speed bumps.
2. You have coilovers on a very (stupidly?) low setting.
3. You have no idea what you're talking about.

Please pick at least one.

Side note, for a properly mounted 2" pipe to hit the ground, your bumper's already scraped off it's paint.

[skiingman]

Originally Posted by Fastest95PGT

You're right. Saving 1 foot of piping by running it between one item that's 150+ degrees (radiator) and another that's 800?+ degrees (primaries) is the most professional idea possible.

I doubt the location of that 18 inches of pipe or so is important for that reason. I do agree with you regarding some of the other alternatives being better, but for more concrete reasons (money blown on fancy fans, for instance.)

Have you seen evidence that your IATs are better than someone with a similar intercooler and the radiator/header IC pipe?

[Fastest95PGT]

Unfortunately, I've never put the other pipe locations on one of my vehicles so I cannot compare. I would like to, but just not worth my dyno money to spend for others benefits here anymore.

Common sense says that putting an intake pipe between two hot spots is a bad idea. But the argument about things like this has gone on forever. Warm air intakes have shorter pipes than cold air intakes. But colder air is better than warm. Yada yada. Another exmaple is a pheno spacers. The list goes on and on.

Long story short, this argument is probably pointless (I was going to say here, but really it's on the 95% of the internet) because people either don't understand, or don't care to get what they could out of their cars. They care more about how much boost they're pushing rather than how much power they're making.

[Fastest95PGT]

In addition, if your IATs already suck due to a poorly sized turbo for the boost you're pushing, then you'll see less of a difference pushing 250+ temps than substantially lower.

[skiingman]

Originally Posted by Fastest95PGT

Unfortunately, I've never put the other pipe locations on one of my vehicles so I cannot compare.

I just scored about a half dozen IATs and pigtails from the yard. Plan is to characterize each using a reference thermometer and a pot of water, number them, and plug the data into Maple for curve fitting. I'll use 3 dollar Harbl Freight multimeters and an assistant to log values at interesting places and times. You can pull the thermistor out of the housing for non-permanent mounting by slipping it through a coupler/hose with leads attached.

One more chunk of ghettofied test equipment to go with my collection like the injector flow bench and the 50 year old o-scope.

They care more about how much boost they're pushing rather than how much power they're making.

Yeah, that annoys me too.

[Turk]

Any pics of the under radiater setup fastest?

[KING6]

I know what im talking about.
Quite to often i pull up to curbs a bit to close, not paying attention. This is one thing that steered my away from a body kit, id smash one up in a weeks time for sure. The stock bumper works fine, it will clear a curb. Now with a pipe hanging in there, that bitch would be smashed, probaly pushing other parts around (such as turbo and IC)
I tried using a 2 1/4 pipe U bended under the radiator, but it just looked to low.

Now either way, if I wanted to make all the pipes away from hot componets, Ill be ditching and/or getting new parts. As is, The stock radiator is just to long, I repositioned it to allow the 2inch pipes to pass through. Anything larger is going to require alot of chopping of the frame, or a smaller radiator.
Theres also the option of a IC thats a bit shorter. And ditching the foglights.
All wich I wasent willing to do.

Perhaps your defending your pipes run under your rad?.. or maybe im being robbed 10hp from heat soak?..

I simply built my setup around the features i wanted to keep on the car. I wanted to keep an oil cooler, I wanted to keep the bumper, I wanted to keep the foglights, I wanted to have an IC that filled the whole space, and I didnt want to spend a fortune.

If you can show me how to do so, with out routing a pipe between the engine and rad, Please,
Because i spent a few months debating, and testing on what was going to work... It wasent something done on the fly

[Fastest95PGT]

Originally Posted by skiingman

I just scored about a half dozen IATs and pigtails from the yard. Plan is to characterize each using a reference thermometer and a pot of water, number them, and plug the data into Maple for curve fitting. I'll use 3 dollar Harbl Freight multimeters and an assistant to log values at interesting places and times. You can pull the thermistor out of the housing for non-permanent mounting by slipping it through a coupler/hose with leads attached.

One more chunk of ghettofied test equipment to go with my collection like the injector flow bench and the 50 year old o-scope.

haha, that's funny. I had always meant to toss a second IAT circuit on my MS so I could log the pre-IC IATs to compare to my close to motor IAT just to see exactly how efficient my IC setup is.

Originally Posted by skiingman

Yeah, that annoys me too.

Thank you, that just gave you +1 in my book.

Originally Posted by sik_turk

Any pics of the under radiater setup fastest?

I don't post pictures anymore for various reasons, sorry.

[104-octane.mx6]

im not a pro at force indiction yet . but by what i have learned. the cooler you can keep the air the less the oxogen will expaned. and the more oxogen molecule's you will pack in that cylinder. and the greater the exposion.
(and the more HP )
so i think i would run it the coolest rought. but that just me.

104-octane signing off <<>>

[Fastest95PGT]

Originally Posted by 104-octane.mx6

im not a pro at force indiction yet . but by what i have learned. the cooler you can keep the air the less the oxogen will expaned. and the more oxogen molecule's you will pack in that cylinder. and the greater the exposion.
(and the more HP )
so i think i would run it the coolest rought. but that just me.

You are correct in that cooler air = more oxygen = more power.

However, the more piping to get the cooler charge, the more turbo lag, the less overall torque.

It's a tradeoff really which no one's probably going to diagnose one versus the other.

For those who like to boast about boost numbers instead of the power they make because they'll never see a dyno, the less efficient the setup the better so they can push more boost before breaking.

[104-octane.mx6]

you mean the more pipe. the more space the turbo has got to fill before boost even begins to start. this is a Q. the exhaust go's in one tubine and back out the same turbine. in return it turn's the other turbine witch suck's in air from one side and pushes it out the other and down into the inercooler and then up into the intake. (right or wrong). that seem's like a lot of pipe. but im just learning. .
so forgive me if im wrong. Q you are talking about running the pipe by the rad after it go's through the cooler, or before ,or with no cooler. you seem to be right about the trade off. but if you'r lag is like 0.50 sec or less. i would say stay cool . some people dont realize that 1 sec is a long time in the motor world.!!!!!!!!!!

104-octane signing off <<>>