Turbos

[BrokEclipse]

OK, im gonna go in depth here and describe how the whole process works

Alright. the air comes out of the exhaust manifold into the exhaust sode of the turbo, it spins the turbine fins which is connected to a shaft that turns the compressor fins on the intake side...the filter is connected to the intake side of the turbo, as the comressor places spin is creates a vacuum that sucks in air and compresses it, this air comes through the filter, to clean it. now, as it spins very fast, it comresses and goes out through the turbo through what i call a J-pipe. which is connected to a Lower Intercooler Pipe (LICP), then it goes through the intercooler which cools it down. then goes out through the Upper Intercooler Pipe (UICP) then from that pipe, leads to the throttle body.
Now as more air goes into the engine, more comes out, the more air will spin the turbine fin faster which sucks in more air through the intake side.
Theres a page that i saw a while ago that went WAY indepth, i mean LOOOONG description, i couldnt find it though
http://www.dlaser.net/11514.html in this link, scroll down to the enigne shots...u see the filter connected to the pipe that leads to the intake side....you can see the LICP but it goes to the IC, on top left, u see UICP its that black pipe incase u couldnt see it....
oh yea once the air spins the turbine fins, it goes out through the O2 housing which just reads the 02 levels...then out through exhaust....
does that clear things up?

[93-V6-MX6]

very much so..thanx

[BrokEclipse]

anytime! i got your AIM name so ill see if things are going well with it

[DEADPOOL]

Originally posted by RickBusarow
It varies from one car to another. I, of course, believe you should, but not with stock parts. At least replace your internals. For right around $1k in parts you could have Ross pistons & rings with 9:1 compresssion, pushing Eagle rods. Bore it .020" over and knife edge the crank and you'll have a bottom end capable of spinning to 9000+ rpm and supporting more horsepower than you'll ever make (900?). Of course, you can't get that 9000 rpm without a 5 angle P&P head job, valves, cams, double springs, retainers... But that block will support anything you throw at it. I highly recommend it.

Rick, I know this is from a long time ago but I'd like to know what size turbo you personally would rcommend for an engine built to the exact specs you mentioned here. Model would be nice to if you could. I've been meaning to do this type of project for the past 2 yrs and am finally getting around to it. I have all the parts except the piping, performmance injectors and turbo aquired.

Thanks

[Rick]

Something really big and ball bearing, I guess, like a Garrett GT35/40 with a 1.06 a/r exhaust and .70 a/r compressor.

[DEADPOOL]

Originally posted by RickBusarow
Something really big and ball bearing, I guess, like a Garrett GT35/40 with a 1.06 a/r exhaust and .70 a/r compressor.

Are you serious or just kidding? I thought "really big" meant lots of lag. I'm looking to enjoy the car all through the RPM range but have read "Maximum Boost" and understand there are sacrifices that have to be made. This car is driven as a daily driver for 3 seasons of the year and stored for the winter. If this were your car, is this really the size turbo you'd use? I'm not doubting your opinion by no means... in fact you and Mici are my heroes when it comes to Turboing MX6's and if this is what you would recommend then this is what I will purchase. Any idea what type of car this can be found in originally or is it only found new? I appriciate your help. Thanks.

PS: if Mici is out there, I'd like to hear his 2 cents as well. Thanks again.

[Rick]

I was serious. It's ball bearing - it spools up really quickly, relatively speaking, and top end is just like any other big turbo. It's actually a relatively new turbo, maybe two years old, but has been a really big hit in the Rx7 and Supra world.

Really, I'd probably just go with something a lot more conservative, though, like a GT25R with .86 a/r exhaust and .70 a/r compressor. You'd make big power (~350-400hp) with very little spoolup, and wouldn't be breaking many things...

[easyBob]

Originally posted by RickBusarow
...wouldn't be breaking many things...

-Chris

Hi, my name is ozzy and this is my first time to this website. I've been looking into buying an mx6 and using it as a project. I wanted to do an engine swap, but since I'm more of a nissan man, I'm a little confused on what can burn the hell out of the RICERS out there, so here is a couple of engines that I have come across, can anybody tell me tips on which is the best, or where I can find specs for them. KLZE, BP-T, B6, KO8, FSZE, 13B-T, thanks to u all.

[faulball]

the TKT site is

http://www.boosthead.com

the pric is rediculous but his shotty craftsmanship is not so readily available in the pictures. Just look through all of the pictures and look at the welds. Shop 101 can teach monkeys to weld like this but he is improving!

[antony_aiken]

firstly hi everyone..........secondly......Originally posted by RickBusarow
It varies from one car to another. I, of course, believe you should, but not with stock parts. At least replace your internals. For right around $1k in parts you could have Ross pistons & rings with 9:1 compresssion, pushing Eagle rods. Bore it .020" over and knife edge the crank and you'll have a bottom end capable of spinning to 9000+ rpm and supporting more horsepower than you'll ever make (900?). Of course, you can't get that 9000 rpm without a 5 angle P&P head job, valves, cams, double springs, retainers... But that block will support anything you throw at it. I highly recommend it.

hmmm all that work to make it spool up to 9000rpm.......lol.........before turbo my standard 626 engine KL-ZE 2.5i V6 revved to 9000, well it hit the 9000 on the clock and then stopped going (the needle not the engine) needless to say it sounded sweet, but that is from a standard engine..........if you search for KL-ZE engine on google.com you will find mazda's own site about the "miller cycle engine stating that "although the KL series engines used in the probe and mx6GT's are rated to just 7400rpm, they will infact revv to 10,000 rpm, this is the mechanical redline of the engine. theoreticaly any higher speeds achieved from these engines would result in catastrofic con rod faliure.)

so you see, if you have a 92-97 kl-ze V6 car, take off the Lambda sensors, (exhaust sensors) and use a free flow exhaust and you too will see revvs of 9000+..........

how does this work? i hear you say..........well
the lambda sensors govern the amount of O2 (oxygen) in the eshaust system before and after the catalytic converter. if they detect a change in 02 levels they will adjust fuel pressure accordingly, if you remove the lamda sensors they will detect no trace of O2 and will boost fuel preasure up to maximium. also the computer will not know that this is the case and will "over ride" the rev limiter thus enabling the engine to free rev to 10,000 rpm, (in theory ive never actuakly got mine past 9400 even with turbo)

"so go forth and modify young child" and have fun doing it!

[Rick]

You, sir, are a genius. I'm sure everyone here with a 92-97 miller cycle ZE in their Mx6 will disconnect their O2 sensors, boost their fuel pressure, override their rev limiter, and spin to 10k rpm. They will forever be in your debt.

[antony_aiken]

hey it worked foe me...............completely by accident i might add...............after not changing the lamda sensors for 167,000 miles the fuel consumption went through the roof, (it was 28 MPG and then suddenly 14MPG)

and also the revv limiter never cut in............but then my cars knakered anway!!!

[RaZoR]

ive seen that PRO racing brand guy through out this forum is their stuff any good

[RaZoR]

ok another question what are the pros and cons of putting a super charger vs a turbo
and i mean every thing money, installation, availablity, and of course power. im a noob so you might want to explain for me. thanks a bunch