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Old 4-2-05, 10:51   #1 (permalink)
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what exactly is a CV boot?

and is it bad if it's ripped? i had my calipers replaced the other day and the guys showed me that the boot on the front passenger side was ripped, but i told him to leave it because it was already going to cost me an arm and a leg. so if you all could tell me what the hell that thing is for it'd be great. i'm not gonna die on the freeway am I? i figure it just covers something. and don't laugh cuz i got my calipers replaced i know dick about anything brake related. engines, ok, brakes no. that's backwards isn't it? anyway, any info would be much appreciated. thank you all.
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Old 4-2-05, 11:19   #2 (permalink)
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Yes, it is bad if it is ripped. The boot holds grease in for lubrication for the halfshafts I believe. Torn Boot = No Grease. You will eventually need to replace it.

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Old 4-2-05, 13:51   #3 (permalink)
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Yep, you will eventually need to have the CV boot/joint either overhauled (taken apart, cleaned, and replace need parts), or have the entire axle replaced (which is easier and might be cheaper).

As Trickedmx6 said above, the CV boot holds grease that lubricates the universal joints that basically allow your wheel to turn while driving up hill, down hill, over bumps, etc. Without the grease (which will splatter out of the broken boot), the universal joint will eventually become dry, lock up, and (in theory) your entire wheel might fall off.

I just had both front axles replaced on my 96 MX6 LS and it was a real pain in the ass. Not that it's necessarily a difficult job, I just had never done it before and it didn't go too well.

Anyway, you might be able to drive your car with a broken boot for a little bit until you get some $$, but once you start hearing a rattling/clinking noise when making sharp turns, you're gettin' pretty bad...

If you don't know how to do calipers, then you might not want to attempt this yourself. But, if you do, here is the basic how-to from the repair manual. You can prolly buy an axle for around $60, but a shop will prolly charge $200 to do the whole thing ($100 for their over-priced axle + $100 for labor).

Hope this helps.

Last edited by Teh_k; 4-2-05 at 13:59..
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Old 4-2-05, 22:29   #4 (permalink)
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yeah my drivers side ripped and got grease all over the inside/outside of my rims, ya it's bad

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Old 4-3-05, 10:48   #5 (permalink)

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Get the boot (might as well do both) done ASAP. The sooner the better.
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Old 4-3-05, 23:47   #6 (permalink)
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if it clicks when turning then it's really a problem, either way you need to get them replaced
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Old 4-4-05, 0:05   #7 (permalink)
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this is going to be expensive isn't it? i don't hear anything and i haven't seen any leaks anywhere in the last couple months so i don't even know when this happened. if anyone has a good places to go out here in hollywood that would be great. thanks for all the info though peoples
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Old 4-4-05, 1:28   #8 (permalink)
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u might as well change both. i got a rip and i stop using the car. now i have to walk to school.

ok heres a ques to all the members that had their cv change.

my front driver;s cv boot is leaking and im not sure which option should i choose.

1) just change the ripped cv boots
2) change both drivers and passenger cv boots.
3) change the the whole drivers cv axles
4) change both drivers and passengers cv axles.

sorry to invode your thread but i have the same prob as you. might as well put it in the same topic.

also if anyone good at pricing, please post the total price of each option.

thank you in advance.

'94 MTX with rust on the driver's fender.
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Old 4-4-05, 1:40   #9 (permalink)
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Just replace the axles once they start clicking, it is just as much work to replace just the boot as the entire axle, and the boots cost $25, as opposed to $60 for a whole axle with new boots.

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Old 4-4-05, 1:55   #10 (permalink)
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there is no reason to stop driving the car if a boot is torn. it'll last for a while, even with all the clicking. it just sounds bad and can be embarassing. changing the entire axle is the best way to go, it's a little more expensive but alot faster. but if u catch it early (before the grease gets contaminated) u can just change the boot and regrease it and it'll be just as good. there really is no need to change both sides, unless u want to or think that the other boot doesn't look good. or as a form of preventative maintenance.

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Old 4-4-05, 10:39   #11 (permalink)

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Genetic- Option 2.
Do it before the 'clicking' starts. Right now, if one boot is torn, replace both and be done with it. Just coz a CV boot leaks doesnt mean your CV joints/axles are shot.
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Old 4-4-05, 11:22   #12 (permalink)
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:P i drove an 89 camry with a torn cv boot for about 4 years... clicking all the way lol.

what finally broke was a wrist pin on one of the pistons, after a few close over-heats...

that axle is probably in a junkyard somewhere - still good.

94 mx6 - you name it - I did it, came up with it, tried it and rejected it or just plain still have it. **Now in the caring hands of Chef**
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Old 4-4-05, 11:40   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJ-MX6
Genetic- Option 2.
Do it before the 'clicking' starts. Right now, if one boot is torn, replace both and be done with it. Just coz a CV boot leaks doesnt mean your CV joints/axles are shot.
ok gentlemen, thank you for your respond. and TJ, its already clicking.
im gonna ask around for the best price.

i called a mechanic last week and hes gonna charge me like 210 for both cv boots. i dun think hes gonna replace the axle since it will b more expensive.

so wat u think a bout the price? is it reasonable?

Thanks everyone.

'94 MTX with rust on the driver's fender.
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Old 4-4-05, 11:44   #14 (permalink)
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210 for doing the boots only - no i dont think it is reasonable

axles are CHEAP. 60+ 60 core in most cases. its also not a difficult job. 210 for the AXLES - i would say yes - good price. otherwise, i would pass, since theres no guarantee you haven't already damaged the CV.

rule of thumb.. once torn, especially in our car where replacing the boot is no easy task without removing the whole axle anyway - just always replace the axles... theyre cheap enough.

94 mx6 - you name it - I did it, came up with it, tried it and rejected it or just plain still have it. **Now in the caring hands of Chef**
93 mx3 - klze, i/h/e, rims and paint.. **FS - on a lift, has an engine, just need to put them together. I have no time. come buy it cheap.
98 jeep GC - 5.9L with bolt ons, lifted, locked. 32x10.5 Goodyear MTR winter/ 30x9.5 bfg ta/ko summer. Custom steel bumpers + armor. "the beast"
98 jeep GC - 5.9L with every bolt on + tune. My street jeep. small tires, but runs 13's
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Old 4-4-05, 12:08   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goatcrapp
210 for doing the boots only - no i dont think it is reasonable

axles are CHEAP. 60+ 60 core in most cases. its also not a difficult job. 210 for the AXLES - i would say yes - good price. otherwise, i would pass, since theres no guarantee you haven't already damaged the CV.

rule of thumb.. once torn, especially in our car where replacing the boot is no easy task without removing the whole axle anyway - just always replace the axles... theyre cheap enough.
thanks goat, did i karma u already? also wats the reasonable price for changing both cv boots? i would like the grand total. i think someone mentioend that the cv boots are like 25 per piece. i would like to know the parts + labor.


Last edited by genetic; 4-4-05 at 12:12..

'94 MTX with rust on the driver's fender.
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