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Old 6-14-05, 20:01   #1 (permalink)
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Has anyone tried this AC Recharge kit from Redtek?

http://63.135.115.175/techinfo.html

I can't remember the last time my AC was working. I think it was about 1995 or around there LOL. For 93-94, I think we had the old type of refrigerant R12, and shops were quoting $400-800 to get it updated to the new R134a system. I haven't bothered having it done, but I just bought a Redtek AC recharge kit for $75 CDN from Bowness Auto Parts here in Calgary.

It comes with some adapters, a hose, two cans of R12a refrigerant plus a can of leak seal. I was going to give it a go and see if it works. Has anyone tried this kit with any success?

I'll try to get it recharged and report back about how well it works.
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Old 6-14-05, 20:31   #2 (permalink)
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don't do it.
I took a course on Air Conditioning, mixing refrigerants (you have a R-134a refrigerant) can damage speacial seals and crap in your AC and can screw up the compressor (I believe) the best thing to do is go to a liscense AC shop, and get it recharged.
NEVER WORK ON AC BY YOURSELF, a truck driver told a mechanic in my shop he had no refrigerant in his truck, so the mechanic twisted off a line, and his 2 wrenchs FROZE (literally) to the lines, he was lucky that he was standing as far away as possible and protecting himself in case of such an incident (if i was him i would have double checked to make sure there was any refrigerant lef in the system.) but yeah, working on AC should be left to liscense guys (the guy in my shop isn't liscensed, he's just learning about it, and trying to get his liscence (it was his first truck that came in for AC))

~~Scales ~~ Calgary Import Society
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Originally Posted by Radar
Do it right the first time around and the car will reward you
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Old 6-14-05, 20:36   #3 (permalink)
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You need to have all the old refrigerant evacuated by a licensed shop, then you should be fine. Look into the sight glass in front of the radiator with the AC on for bubbles, this means you have refrigerant in the system.. You should check for leaks before recharging or use the leak sealant redtek sells or you're just wasting your time and money and the environment. You should be fine after doing this.

Last edited by 94MX6pilot audio master; 6-14-05 at 20:40..
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Old 6-14-05, 20:43   #4 (permalink)
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wrong sry to say, every system in the market is ment for one type of refrigerant, and that's R-134a so far (except for old old models). Using anything different will mess up the systems fittings ect, and will cause you more problems in the future. This sealant they use (since it's a cheap product) probably works just as well as kleenex for a diaper. wouldn't trust it, and you may as well spend more money and get it done correctly then setting yourself up for something that's gonna look nasty looking, like all the parts you'll need to replace due not doing the right thing. Ask a AC mechanic!!! i'm not one, but i took a course on it, i need more hours if i wanted to become one, honestly, i'm scare of working on it.

~~Scales ~~ Calgary Import Society
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Do it right the first time around and the car will reward you
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Old 6-14-05, 20:45   #5 (permalink)
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oh, and they are planning on getting rid of r-134a soon on all the new vehicles (2007 and up i believe) and using a even more environmentally friendly refrigerant.

~~Scales ~~ Calgary Import Society
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Do it right the first time around and the car will reward you
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Old 6-14-05, 21:16   #6 (permalink)
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Hehe whoops. I just completed my recharge right now, and wow, I've got AC again! My AC runs on the old R12 freon, and it pretty well evacuated itself many, many years ago so there really isn't anything left in the system. I'm pretty certain about that. My car has 371,000 km's on it, and the AC only worked from 1993 to about 1995 so I figure heck if the AC system blows up after trying this, I'm not going to cry much! I've been suffering without cold air for a decade now.

The Redtek system is actually suitable for both R12 and R134a systems if you read the fine print. They include a can of Leak Seal which is supposed to help. It does say that you should have whatever refrigerant evacuated first.

One caution: do turn the valve COUNTER-CLOCKWISE first to retract the puncture tip before screwing the hose onto the cans. Once on, turn the valve clockwise to puncture.

Now how long it's going to last for is another question! As long as it gets me a few months of AC, I'll be happy. This definitely isn't recommended for newer vehicles or if you are afraid of damaging anything that's for sure.
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Old 6-14-05, 21:19   #7 (permalink)
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your car ran on r-12 before! my bad

~~Scales ~~ Calgary Import Society
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radar
Do it right the first time around and the car will reward you
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Old 6-14-05, 21:55   #8 (permalink)
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Yeah, I think it was the 94+ models that came with the new refrigerant (R134a). I remember my car only came with R12 and no passenger side air bag. When my AC died I was choked up about dishing out $800 to upgrade the system.


It's a little on the cool side in Calgary this evening so I can't really test how well the AC is working. The AC air is noticeably cool though, but I wouldn't say it's as cold as when my car was new. Maybe the sealant takes some time to penetrate and work. The Redtek kit looks like it has enough R12a to refill the system a few times. It's supposed to be environmentally friendly.

Q. Is RED TEK® 12a™ environmentally safe? A. Absolutely! RED TEK® 12a™ refrigerants are organic, non-ozone depleting, non-toxic compounds. These refrigerants are endorsed by the GreenPeace organization and are in full compliance with the UN Montreal Protocol.

Hopefully it'll be hotter tomorrow so I can test the system out. I'm surprised how little refrigerant is needed. I think the table showed about 1/2 a can is enough.

Last edited by HHBL; 6-14-05 at 22:02..
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Old 6-15-05, 10:25   #9 (permalink)
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i'd like to make a small change to the above quote

Q. Is RED TEK® 12a™ environmentally safe? A. Absolutely! if we said it wasn't then we'd be bankrupt! our product is endorsed by our friendly staff and management. :P

I'm only kiddin, but seriously, it's like R-134a but different, it isn't as good obviously, considering if it was better for the environment, they'd be putting it in all the cars today, but yeah, it works for your car which is the main thing. I just tend to ramble on once and a while. I need karma :P

~~Scales ~~ Calgary Import Society
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radar
Do it right the first time around and the car will reward you
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Old 6-15-05, 21:53   #10 (permalink)
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Folks before you flock to order this to fix you AC you better Google to find out more facts and potential danger about this wonderful product. Try keywords like "hydrocarbon REFRIGERANT danger".

This HC based refrigerant is no new technology at all. It was actually used widely before CFC based (R12) is used. In non-technical term this can be called "Propane" or "Propane/Butane mixture".

Consider if there is a leak in the evaporator of your automotive AC fitted with this and you are smoking at the same time, your car could become a barbecue and you would become the hamburger steak. You could also call this bomb, or firework...

Before you send your car to the shop for service you better make sure the shop knows and acknowledge you have HC refrigerant in the AC. If you park in an indoor garage you better make the attendent aware as well, for obvious liability reason. However they may refuse your business if they understand what this is cause this may void their insurance.

If it is too good to be true, it probably is. You have to wonder why the manufacturers do not use this wonderful refrigerant in their new cars. $75 is too expensive for 2 cans of propane, ok, 2 cans of carefully proportioned propane/butane mixture.
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Old 6-16-05, 3:05   #11 (permalink)
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Whoa! Thanks for bringing this to our attention! Yikes, I didn't think Redtek R12a was a propane/butane mix, but after researching a bit more on these alkane refrigerants, I'm worried there's going to be a cabin kaboom.

I wouldn't think that they could sell something like this which could be potentially hazardous. I'm very shocked to find this out. I guess in the end, it's buyer/installer beware. From what I read, R134a can also be flammable as well. If other people want to try this R12a drop-in charge, maybe it's best not to smoke in the car and to open the windows a little. I don't know if a leak could let enough R12a into a closed cabin to explode.

After reading up on R12a, I don't know if I can recommend it to anyone now. On one hand, I'm happy as heck to have cold AC after 10 years of sweating it in the summertime, but on the other hand, I'd hate to see someone else try this out and have an accident.

Here's an excerpt from a page I found on R12a safety. It's quite long so be warned.


http://www.corskan.on.ca/svao/newsletter062001.html
Automotive Air Conditioning

Some time ago I mentioned a new refrigerant that we heard about from a Manitoba visitor to our web site. The following is in answer to the query for further information. John Stephenson is the secretary of the Durham Electric Vehicle Association.
R12a Refrigerant

Re your question in the SVAO Newsletter, and our recent conversation.

R12a is what is called a 'natural refrigerant' because it is a mixture of stable organic compounds, which have been around forever (?). It is a mixture of stable hydrocarbons to which the name 'paraffin's' was given in the early days of the study of Organic Chemistry. The mixture consists of approx. 40% butane, 59% propane and 1% ethane. Note that these materials are said to be 'highly purified' in order to use them as a refrigerant. You should not try to mix these materials out of a standard cylinder and expect that the air conditioning system will work perfectly.

It is well known that ethane, propane and butane are flammable in air and, when mixed in certain proportions with air, will burn with explosive speed. Nevertheless, propane and butane were used as refrigerants, along with ammonia, carbon dioxide, and sulphur dioxide, before the development and commercial use of freons in the early 1930's. It was an explosion involving propane in a school air conditioning system, which resulted in the death of a number of students, which lead to the banning of the 'natural' (flammable) refrigerants, in favour of the 'freons' in North America. At that time, the damaging environmental properties of the freons were not even imagined. As a family of products they were considered to be unreactive, non-toxic, non-flammable, i.e. the perfect refrigerants.

In the late 1970's the environmental effects of the freons began to be known and understood. They are, as a group, very damaging to the stratospheric ozone layer, and very strong global warming agents. As a result of the damage done to the stratospheric ozone layer, the freons, known as the cfc's or chloro-fluoro-carbons, have been banned by international treaty (although still available if you know where to buy them!). The fact that they are very strong global warming agents is less well known, and to some extent the chemical manufacturers have tried to keep this a dark secret.

The chemical manufacturers have introduced new compounds of the freon type to replace the banned
cfc's. The new compounds are hydro-chloro-fluoro-carbons (hcfc's) and hydro-fluoro-carbons (hfc's).

The hcfc's are in the process of being banned because they still affect the ozone layer (at about 5% or less, than the cfc's) and because they are strong global warming agents. The hfc's have no adverse effects on the ozone layer, but are still very strong global warming agents. There is one other group that must be mentioned - the per-fluoro-carbons, which are extremely stable compounds (have long lifetimes in the atmoshpere) and are strong global warming agents.

The following table summarizes the ozone depleting and global warming characteristics of the common refrigerants, with the 'natural' hydrocarbon refrigerants included for comparison:

Note: Global warming potential is calculated by using carbon dioxide =1 (i.e you can compare the effect of releasing 1 tonne of the various agents). Also, the lifetime of the various agents in the atmosphere has to be taken into account. For this reason the global warming potential (GWP) is calculated for time horizons of 20 years, 100 years and 500 years. Thus the GWP for an agent which has a short lifetime in the atmosphere will be at its highest when averaged over the 20 year Horizon and an agent with a long lifetime will be highest when averaged over the 500 year Horizon. In general, we are most immediately concerned with the 20 year time horizon, because it affects the most immediate future of the planet.

Refrigerant Ozone depletion Global Warming Potential
20 yr 100 yr 500 yr
Carbon Dioxide No
R12 Very strong 7,800 8,100 4,200
R11 Very strong 4,900 3,800 1,400
R134a 0.05 3,400 1,300 420
R12a No 8 0 0
Per fluoro-methane No 4,400 6,500 10,000
(Source International Panel on Climate Change 1994)

R134a is the currently used substitute for R12 in automobile air conditioning systems. R134a is a very good cleaning agent - it will remove deposited gums in the interior of the system. It is also very acidic if moisture is allowed into a system, and it needs special lubricants, because it is not compatible with the lubricant used in R12 systems. On the other hand,



R12a is a direct drop-in replacement for both R12 and R134a systems.

Because R134a is a strong global warming agent the government has decreed that all refrigeration systems must be built to 'contain' the refrigerant, for the lifetime of the system, i.e. the system must not leak. However it is by no means certain that this requirement is being met in current automotive systems. Conversely, it must be true that if a system will contain a freon, then it will also contain a 'natural' refrigerant.

The table (above ) illustrates the environmental benefits of using R12a. However it must never be forgotten that it is a very flammable refrigerant - although I personally know of no cases where R12a has been associated with a fire in an automobile - even as the result of a crash. There are three or more possible reasons for this:

1) the weight of refrigerant charged into the average automobile system is only about 12 to 16 ozs.
2) In the event of a sudden release of refrigerant only about half of the charge is released - the rest is retained for a short time in the oil in the system.
3) In the event of a slow release, the gas is heavy and will sink towards the ground where usually it will dissipate without problems.

However, it is extremely important that the air conditioning system be clearly labeled that it contains a flammable refrigerant. Many refrigerant technicians are not conversant with the properties of R12a - the name is too close to R12 to be comfortable (for me) - I think that this may lead to an accident.

Finally, although propane is used in Europe in many refrigeration type appliances, its use on this continent is being resisted by the freon manufacturers, and the current Canadian Standard (B52-95 Mechanical Refrigeration Code) is deficient in its treatment of flammable refrigerants. That is to say that its use may not be properly covered by insurance companies on the grounds that it is a flammable refrigerant.
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Old 6-17-05, 21:26   #12 (permalink)
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Alrighty, for those concerned about being cool and then suddenly exploding into a ball of flames, I found an alternative recharge kit that uses R134a.

http://www.id-usa.com/product_landing_ac.asp

Bring on the Karma peeps!
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Old 4-23-12, 23:06   #13 (permalink)
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I just used the Red Tek R12A recharge kit. Used the 1 full can plus the 2 oz can of the seal stuff and have mega cool air. I pulled my rad out not too long ago to put a new one in and bumped the line thats right beside the passenger side of the rad and it started to leak out... so went and got the recharge kit and found out it needed 1.17 lbs of charge, so i put in maybe 1.1 of charge and it comes out nice and cool. Had a few seals replaced while it was empty and works just like new. Just have to try it out on a much warmer day to see just how well it works.
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