NOOOO even after flushing the motor twice and switching to 5w30 synthetic...

videogamemaster · 4-29-08, 23:27

The DAMN tick is still there

This is makin me pretty mad....

Anyways watch the video plz because i point out exactly where the noise is coming from...

YouTube - MX-6 ticking noise after 2 engine flushes & switch to 5W30

**94MX6pilot audio master** · 4-29-08, 23:32

Is that the rear valve cover you're pointing to...and you did use engine flush? Not just change the oil twice..

**max626** · 4-29-08, 23:33

It could be your timming belt tensinor i had the same sound in the same place, but unfortunatly i didnt get around to changing mine(engien died).

videogamemaster · 4-29-08, 23:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94MX6pilot audio master

Is that the rear valve cover you're pointing to?

Ummm its right next to the rear timing belt and back left clyinder... i think its just left of that cylinder though

videogamemaster · 4-29-08, 23:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by max626

It could be your timming belt tensinor i had the same sound in the same place, but unfortunatly i didnt get around to changing mine(engien died).

The thing that confuses me though is that it was just replaced 5k miles ago....

**94MX6pilot audio master** · 4-29-08, 23:37

I'm still sticking with the initial diagnoses...it's the lifter...It may not quiet down...it may have to be replaced. The flush works most of the time...You did use engine flush...correct?

videogamemaster · 4-29-08, 23:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94MX6pilot audio master

I'm still sticking with the initial diagnoses...it's the lifter...It may not quiet down...it may have to be replaced. The flush works most of the time...

Oh damn... how much do u think labor is to get that replaced...

**max626** · 4-29-08, 23:39

Who replaced it? I ask because they could of fizzled it while installing it or it could be a cheap brand that crapped out

videogamemaster · 4-29-08, 23:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by max626

Who replaced it? I ask because they could of fizzled it while installing it or it could be a cheap brand that crapped out

Ummm the guy that had it before had it done at the same shop he got all his other work done... its not a major chain or anything

**lugaseng** · 4-30-08, 0:47

try cleaning them this way , it worked for me .
FE3 HLA cleaning procedure for more lift and power :-) - MX6.com

http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-oth...t=cleaning+HLA (K series/FE3 HLA cleaning.(for more lift/power, and less tick))

videogamemaster · 4-30-08, 9:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by lugaseng

try cleaning them this way , it worked for me .
FE3 HLA cleaning procedure for more lift and power :-) - MX6.com

http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-oth...t=cleaning+HLA (K series/FE3 HLA cleaning.(for more lift/power, and less tick))

Nice guides but i need one that will show me how to get to the lifter in the first place

**lugaseng** · 4-30-08, 11:08

there's quite a bit of info online here on this site , you'd have to remove the intake manifold , tappet covers , camshaft caps and the camshaft . then you'd have to assemble it together and time the engine . do a search on timing marks lots of pictures on how to set it up . Then find out the torques for the camshaft caps, but a "hand tight" torque should do the trick

videogamemaster · 4-30-08, 11:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94MX6pilot audio master

I'm still sticking with the initial diagnoses...it's the lifter...It may not quiet down...it may have to be replaced. The flush works most of the time...You did use engine flush...correct?

Sorry i missed your second question but yes i did use the Gunk brand motor flush twice

**D'sMx-6** · 4-30-08, 11:47

I'm still going by the conclusion that it's the timing belt tensioner arm. That piece of [shizzle] fails all the time. Only buy a Mazda brand tensioner arm. Perhaps the guy that had the word done meant to say that he had a tensioner replaced, and not the tensioner arm.

Does the sound go away at about 2500-3000? If so, that is the problem. If the motor quiets down after it gets to operating temp, it's the HLA's. Perhaps the HLA's did [shizzle] out on you, but I would try my suggestion first. Also, just keep the car and fix it. Motor swaps are cheap and so is the suspension work . Preventative maintenance is the key to owning a car. Once you sell this car, you'll buy another used car and you will be buying someone elses problems.

**fredio54** · 4-30-08, 13:34

I fixed the missing images in the fe3 section, but just went to check the other thread here and it's still OK, so not sure what went on there. There is wrong info in this thread, but I promised I wouldn't post in 2g anymore (this is breaking it I guess, but I thought I'd let you all know anyway) so I wont be discussing/arguing the points here.

Fred.

4-29-08, 23:27	#1 (permalink)
videogamemaster Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: , CO, USA Age: 17 iTrader: (0)	NOOOO even after flushing the motor twice and switching to 5w30 synthetic... The DAMN tick is still there This is makin me pretty mad.... Anyways watch the video plz because i point out exactly where the noise is coming from... YouTube - MX-6 ticking noise after 2 engine flushes & switch to 5W30

4-29-08, 23:32	#2 (permalink)
94MX6pilot audio master Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Phoenix AZ USA, AZ, USA iTrader: (0)	Is that the rear valve cover you're pointing to...and you did use engine flush? Not just change the oil twice..
	Tired of burning up in your 6, my Mx6 has vent temps in the low 30's....I have the solution...Transform your 6 from a sweat box..into an ICE BOX.

4-29-08, 23:33	#3 (permalink)
max626 Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Queens, New York, NY, USA Age: 19 iTrader: (2)	It could be your timming belt tensinor i had the same sound in the same place, but unfortunatly i didnt get around to changing mine(engien died).
	Iam just a regular everyday normal guy... Twin Turbo KJG4 project...... CF Roof BB Feeler

4-29-08, 23:37	#6 (permalink)
94MX6pilot audio master Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Phoenix AZ USA, AZ, USA iTrader: (0)	I'm still sticking with the initial diagnoses...it's the lifter...It may not quiet down...it may have to be replaced. The flush works most of the time...You did use engine flush...correct?
	Tired of burning up in your 6, my Mx6 has vent temps in the low 30's....I have the solution...Transform your 6 from a sweat box..into an ICE BOX.

4-29-08, 23:39	#8 (permalink)
max626 Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Queens, New York, NY, USA Age: 19 iTrader: (2)	Who replaced it? I ask because they could of fizzled it while installing it or it could be a cheap brand that crapped out
	Iam just a regular everyday normal guy... Twin Turbo KJG4 project...... CF Roof BB Feeler

4-30-08, 0:47	#10 (permalink)
lugaseng Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Durban, South Africa Age: 21 iTrader: (0)	try cleaning them this way , it worked for me . FE3 HLA cleaning procedure for more lift and power :-) - MX6.com http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-oth...t=cleaning+HLA (K series/FE3 HLA cleaning.(for more lift/power, and less tick))

4-30-08, 11:08	#12 (permalink)
lugaseng Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Durban, South Africa Age: 21 iTrader: (0)	there's quite a bit of info online here on this site , you'd have to remove the intake manifold , tappet covers , camshaft caps and the camshaft . then you'd have to assemble it together and time the engine . do a search on timing marks lots of pictures on how to set it up . Then find out the torques for the camshaft caps, but a "hand tight" torque should do the trick

4-30-08, 11:47	#14 (permalink)
D'sMx-6 Overhaulin' the 6 Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: milwaukee, WI, USA Age: 22 iTrader: (1)	I'm still going by the conclusion that it's the timing belt tensioner arm. That piece of [shizzle] fails all the time. Only buy a Mazda brand tensioner arm. Perhaps the guy that had the word done meant to say that he had a tensioner replaced, and not the tensioner arm. Does the sound go away at about 2500-3000? If so, that is the problem. If the motor quiets down after it gets to operating temp, it's the HLA's. Perhaps the HLA's did [shizzle] out on you, but I would try my suggestion first. Also, just keep the car and fix it. Motor swaps are cheap and so is the suspension work . Preventative maintenance is the key to owning a car. Once you sell this car, you'll buy another used car and you will be buying someone elses problems.
	97 C8 MX6 LS-S : Supercharged StreetThisMx6's motor, HP's and Eibach's, AWR suspension components, FD's and J-specs, etc... Yeah it's nice

4-30-08, 13:34	#15 (permalink)
fredio54 Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Auckland, New Zealand iTrader: (1)	I fixed the missing images in the fe3 section, but just went to check the other thread here and it's still OK, so not sure what went on there. There is wrong info in this thread, but I promised I wouldn't post in 2g anymore (this is breaking it I guess, but I thought I'd let you all know anyway) so I wont be discussing/arguing the points here. Fred.
	DIYEFI.org - TRUE DIY engine management Mazda FE3/FE-DOHC Master Index Thread (work in progress) Mazda truck with FE-DOHC/FE3 "BIG like your house" Holset Turbo drinking 2.2 litres of fuel per minute ~= 385hp crank RIP SleepCounter :-( we will miss you! - RIP fredio54 :-( will we miss you?