** IMPORTANT: Any one every replaced rear brake caliper?!

MazdaExperiment · 11-22-08, 23:12

My brakes stopped working the other day, i went to take the car in and the guy wants $1022.30 to fix it, seems absolutely rediculous. It needs new rear brake calipers and a new master cylinder. Has anyone ever replaced either on their car?? if anyone could help with a tutorial or anything like that it would be much appreciated!!

**daevilone** · 11-23-08, 0:06

well the calipers are simple...
as in unbolt the old one and bolt in the new one.

brakes will need bleeding after that and if you are new to that it can be a bit fun - just hit up google for bleeding brakes its the same on any car. (well most probably).

master cylinder is just a un bolt rebolt again and will involve bleeding all 4 corners.

Cant really see how it would be 1000 to fix... but hey mazda parts are just awesome so I guess its possible.

Some good looking calipers from a wrecker would be the go and probably a new master cylinder.

**bmxfuel007** · 11-23-08, 1:45

if you want, remanufactured calipers, I'd go with calipers off a 96 or 97 as they're redesigned compared to 93 or 94. rockauto has them for a little over 70 bucks including a core. if you go to autozone or schucks or whatever auto store is around, you can find an unloaded caliper for around 56 bucks plus core. a brake master cylinder is 32 bucks with a 20 dollar core charge from rockauto. for parts, pricing isn't too bad at all.

I suggest finding someone who knows how to do brake stuff if you're not comfortable with it. some shops don't like to use parts that have been brought in by customers, so check before you commit to a shop.

If you have time and tools or know anyone who has tools, it'll be a good learning experience. take your timing bleeding the brakes

**NickR** · 11-23-08, 12:25

Here's a tutorial on replacing the caliper: </title></head>"); newWindow.document.writeln("<body><div align='center'><img " + getWidth("yes") + "src='/images/cds/" + tpe + "/" + sze + "/" + pc + "." + tpe + "'></img></div>"); newWindow.document.writeln("<div align='center'><table><tr><td><FORM . The only thing it gets wrong is that it forgets to tell you to remove the 14mm cover bolt (next to the 14mm bolt which attaches the E-brake bracket), and to turn the hex nut inside counterclockwise with an allen key to back off pistons, then to turn the allen key clockwise again until the pads almost bind (to get the E-brake adjustment right).

Another tutorial on replacing the master cylinder: </title></head>"); newWindow.document.writeln("<body><div align='center'><img " + getWidth("yes") + "src='/images/cds/" + tpe + "/" + sze + "/" + pc + "." + tpe + "'></img></div>"); newWindow.document.writeln("<div align='center'><table><tr><td><FORM

**mflbrody** · 11-23-08, 22:17

You may also want to look into the Mazda 6 brake upgrade.. I don't know if you subscribe to the if it breaks upgrade it philosophy, but that's the route I went when my brakes went south and I'm certainly glad that's what I chose.