Valve stems actually look pretty simple, after reading some guides the only thing that will be hard is we need to apply tons of force to get them back on. They should magnetize the spring compressor to make it hold the valve in place, puttng rope into the cylander is anoying.
thats why i said, put air in the cylinder.
They wont' drop when there's like 100 psi in the cyl.
as far as needing tons of force to get them on.......i know what your talking about. Once you compress the springs....you just pull them off after the keepers are taken out.
To install, put your stuff on, then drop the springs over and recompress.
If your talking about guides i could see that but even a small hammer with a socket that fits around the valve would be cake.
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Originally Posted by Trent
Most of the "goth" chicks around here would require a Class III hitch, if you know what I mean.
They wont' drop when there's like 100 psi in the cyl.
as far as needing tons of force to get them on.......i know what your talking about. Once you compress the springs....you just pull them off after the keepers are taken out.
To install, put your stuff on, then drop the springs over and recompress.
If your talking about guides i could see that but even a small hammer with a socket that fits around the valve would be cake.
Why cant we just put it to TDC for each cylinder and then take the springs off?
If i apply rtv on the IM and valve covers i have to replace the gaskets next time i take it off to replace the valve stem seals because you cant reuse gaskets covered in rtv right? So i should do the valves and rtv everything in one shot?
I've re-used plenty of gaskets that had or didn't have RTV on them. I just rub off the old RTV and put a new bead on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4cylfun
as far as needing tons of force to get them on.......i know what your talking about. Once you compress the springs....you just pull them off after the keepers are taken out.
To install, put your stuff on, then drop the springs over and recompress.
What "stuff" exactly are you talking about. The locks?.. the retainers?
Quote:
Originally Posted by solomondg1
Why cant we just put it to TDC for each cylinder and then take the springs off?
These engines are non-interference which means the piston will not touch the valves.. any of them. So TDC would still result in a valve dropping a bit.
The smoke you showed us was from the rear of the engine. That has nothing to do with bad valve seals.. what brought up the bad valve seals?
The smoke you showed us was from the rear of the engine. That has nothing to do with bad valve seals.. what brought up the bad valve seals?
That wasn't the only smoke. It was pouring out the exhaust before the video. We didn't make it come out more in the vid because the street was smoking up. I videoed the rear because there was smoke coming from the back of the engine towards the bottom. When we re-installed the exhaust the gasket was a POS, which we cut up and reinstalled. So we're not sure if the smoke at the rear is a leaky gasket.
I brought up valve stem seals because the head was not rebuilt in the engine restore process. The body has 165k miles on it, BUT the engine is a crate motor which we do not know when it was replaced. If it's leaking exhaust, then it's still possible for the seals to be bad. What do you think?
That wasn't the only smoke. It was pouring out the exhaust before the video. We didn't make it come out more in the vid because the street was smoking up. I videoed the rear because there smoke coming from the back of the engine towards the bottom. When we re-installed the exhaust the gasket was a POS, which we cut up and reinstalled. So we're not sure if the smoke at the rear is a leaky gasket.
Copper RTV it? I never install any gaskets anymore without some form of RTV on it. I got tired of having to redo gaskets over the years because of minor leaks.
Quote:
I brought up valve stem seals because the head was not rebuilt in the engine restore process. The body has 165k miles on it, BUT the engine is a crate motor which we do not know when it was replaced. If it's leaking exhaust, then it's still possible for the seals to be bad. What do you think?
It's possible.. crate engine or not. How do you really know it was a crate engine anyway and not just a JY engine with unknown miles.
As far as valve seals go, there are ways to get an idea of them being the culprit. If you were to disconnect all your crank case hoses and cap them at the intake side, you would get a considerable amount of smoke coming out the newly opened ports, it is either rings or valve seals.
Have you done a compression test yet? The tester is only ~$35 at the local parts store to buy.. not sure if they rent them. This will narrow you down between the rings and valve seals as valve seals don't affect compression.
hahaha, you and your RTV...
That sounds like a plan. It wouldn't burn up right?
100% sure it was a crate engine from "Jasper" (company name).
We'll try that test. Rings also could be it because solomon hasn't done them before and they probably didn't seat right.
No comp test done yet. Autozone does rent them, so that's next I guess.
Last edited by KnightmareCS : 10-25-09 at 1:24.
1993 Mazda MX-6 LS
1983 Pontiac Trans Am
1982 Pontiac Trans Am
1999 Pontiac Trans Am
RTV wouldn't likely catch on fire or anything like that. Will smoke a little bit though at first. No worries, it's just for insurance so you don't have to do the job twice. Thin bead is all you need/want.
hahaha, you and your RTV...
That sounds like a plan. It wouldn't burn up right?
100% sure it was a crate engine from "Jasper" (company name).
We'll try that test. Rings also could be it because solomon hasn't done them before and they probably didn't seat right.
No comp test done yet. Autozone does rent them, so that's next I guess.
Im pretty sure the rings are fine but we should do a comp test to be sure. Where the exhasut is leaking from i dont care about, what i do care about is the burning oil which I think are the valve seals.
I know the engine is non-interference and the piston wont hold the valve up, I was saying wouldent the pressure(spark plug in place) from the compression hold the valve up at tdc?
Im pretty sure the rings are fine but we should do a comp test to be sure. Where the exhasut is leaking from i dont care about, what i do care about is the burning oil which I think are the valve seals.
Compression test may tell you then. If it is low/inconsistent, then add a cap full of oil. If compression goes up, then rings are the culprit. If it does not, then it's the valve seats... this would also lead your smoke to be the valve seals.
Quote:
I know the engine is non-interference and the piston wont hold the valve up, I was saying wouldent the pressure(spark plug in place) from the compression hold the valve up at tdc?
Compression doesn't stay in the cylinder forever, especially a dry cylinder. This is where leakdown tester would tell you how long it is staying. Likely not long enough to do a retainer R&I as well as a valve seal (which is easier than the retainer R&I) replacement.
Worked on the car a little today. Connected vacuum to the intake to see where it leaked, found big leak on front valve cover and rtv'd it. Cannot hear more leaks because the vacuum is loud, next time we will try to get an extension for it so we can put it further from the car. After sealing it we started the car again. It was more difficult this time, held the start for like 10 seconds and at half throttle and it just started a low idle. After like 15 seconds of half throttle it started to rev up and i let up on the throttle. We got it running exactly like it was before.
There is still a sound comming from the firewall passanger side that sounds like rubbing. Maybe its the timing belt? There are no more massive vacuum leaks, maybe some minor ones but would that make it run the way its running?
Also this time we didnt see any smoke so i guess the oil burning was from the new rings seating.
Does your timing belt cover look pushed in anywhere so that it may hit the belt? This wouldn't be a common problem, but I suppose anything is possible as those covers get older and deform from removal and installation.
Did you ever remove the fuel rails from your intake manifold while you had it apart? I'd wonder if one or two of those O-Ring crush washer things that the injectors seat against the manifold dropped out.
That is an excellent point and would make sense. When we first took off the IM we took off the fuel rails because we thaught they needed to come off ot get the IM off, later we put them back on. An O ring missing there would definetly explain the vacuum leak and the smell of burning gas from the engine bay. Checking that out today. Also I want to toque them to spec but they have hex bolts on them, is there some sort of adapter to make allen keys work with a torque wrench or are there special hex bits availlable?
Also the rubbing sound is not constant, it makes a sound for about 1.5 seconds and then doesnt make a sound for about 2 seconds. This is at about 2k rpm. The frequency of the sound increases with rpm.
That is an excellent point and would make sense. When we first took off the IM we took off the fuel rails because we thaught they needed to come off ot get the IM off, later we put them back on. An O ring missing there would definetly explain the vacuum leak and the smell of burning gas from the engine bay. Checking that out today.
Absolutely. Just had this happen during an IM swap on my gf's LS recently. She swapped over the rails and didn't even realize there were O-Rings... they were all "stuck" (barely) on the old IM. Anyway, the car started but would die immediately with 5 missing O-Rings. If yours was missing just one or two, I could see it still running. Heck, I've run an engine at idle on stock computer with one fuel rail unplugged.
Good news too, you can see the O-Rings from the side without pulling the rails! Just grab a flash light and contort yourself in the right direction to see them all.
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Also I want to toque them to spec but they have hex bolts on them, is there some sort of adapter to make allen keys work with a torque wrench or are there special hex bits availlable?
Is it an L shaped allen wrench? If so, you could cut it off so it's straight and use an appropriate size 1/4" socket on it.. then adapt up to the size of your torque wrench. Of course, each adapter may change your torque reading slightly.
Those bolts are pretty stout and they press into hard plastic spacers. Just wrench them down nice and snug and it will be fine. For comparison, I would tighten them about the same as an IM bolt or throttle body bolt.
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Also the rubbing sound is not constant, it makes a sound for about 1.5 seconds and then doesnt make a sound for about 2 seconds. This is at about 2k rpm. The frequency of the sound increases with rpm.
That's a very slow rhythm. At 2k rpm, well, it's going 2k rpm... which is pretty fast. So what would pulse at 30 spm (sounds per minute) while at 2k rpm? Meh, get rid of that vacuum leak and maybe you can better isolate it.
That's a very slow rhythm. At 2k rpm, well, it's going 2k rpm... which is pretty fast. So what would pulse at 30 spm (sounds per minute) while at 2k rpm? Meh, get rid of that vacuum leak and maybe you can better isolate it.
At 2k rpm the cam sprockets are spinning at 1k rpm (17 rev per sec) and the timing belt makes about 4 complete revolutions every second so a 1.5 second long sound and then a 2 second long silence makes no sence. I think its something like a jammed solenoid or something like that. Is there anything in that area(next to RH timing sprocket) that would make that sound?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastest95PGT
Is it an L shaped allen wrench? If so, you could cut it off so it's straight and use an appropriate size 1/4" socket on it.. then adapt up to the size of your torque wrench. Of course, each adapter may change your torque reading slightly.
There are stright allen wrenches? I dont want to cut mine lol.
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PARTING A LOT OF 2g STUFF
I never install any gaskets anymore without some form of RTV on it. I got tired of having to redo gaskets over the years because of minor leaks.
