Also throw in code 25 and 41.
Just started throwing those too.
Looks like that ghetto fix i made on the egr solenoid broke and is causing the code on the VRIS 1 solenoid.
I have never seen the vris 1 actuator move at any rpm so i guess this is the problem. I confirmed the actuator works by using the method you described earlier.
This should not effect the gas solenoid(code 25), any explanation for that?
Okay, I must have been dyslexic in my reading of the codes. Yes, 04 appears to be the one in the distributor and not the one by the pulley.
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Originally Posted by solomondg1
I confirmed that wire I soldered made a good connection. I looked inside and everythng seems to be ok, I found nothing that looks broken.
After driving the car the CEL came on again but i didnt check the code yet, I assumed its the same but I will check later.
Check the codes again. Never know what might show up the more you drive it.
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Could bad spark plugs and contaminated gas cause this?
Doubt that could possibly cause a wheel sensor code.
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The wire that broke was the wire going from this small box bolted onto the outide of the distributor and it goes into the 3 pin connector from the side.
As far as I understand the 3 pin connector controls the ignition coil and is not the position sensor.
I don't know what that small box is, but I know what you're talking about.
The 3 pin has the power for the distributor (IIRC, required for hall sensor(s) to work as well as to power the coil) one for the ignitor trigger and one for the tach signal. I think those are all.
Also throw in code 25 and 41.
Just started throwing those too.
Looks like that ghetto fix i made on the egr solenoid broke and is causing the code on the VRIS 1 solenoid.
I have never seen the vris 1 actuator move at any rpm so i guess this is the problem. I confirmed the actuator works by using the method you described earlier.
This should not effect the gas solenoid(code 25), any explanation for that?
Code 25 is for the FPRC solenoid down on the vacuum line between the fuel pressure regulator and the intake runner nipple... runner 6. Make sure it's plugged in. This is only used during warm starts by blocking vacuum to the FPR which raises startup fuel pressure.
As an FYI, the FPRC is the same solenoid as the VRIS with the cap (piece that turns) on the opposite end (normally open instead of normally closed).
Be warned, the FPRC has the same plug as the reverse and neutral switches. I have seen the reverse switch get plugged into the FPRC and vise versa. It does throw a code . . . eventually, but not always immediately as you have noticed. IIRC, the reverse light switch is white so if you have a white plug in your FPRC, this could be your issue.
I confirmed the connections to the FPRC solenoid and il post a pic soon.
The reverse lights work fine so i guess its connected right.
The tach and all the guages inside the car work fine.
Drove it like 4 times with same 3 codes:04,25,41
What is weird is accoreding to the website all of these codes would cause problems with the car starting and cause it to not idle but the car idles and starts fine and as long as it doesnt move it will never throw any codes. Last time it took it 15 minutes of driving to throw a code.
Yes, since your reverse lights work, my previous suggestion was eliminated.
You likely haven't gotten the engine up high enough to kick off a code 46 yet. Try swapping the plugs between VRIS 1 and VRIS 2. If you still get a code 41, then your VRIS 2 solenoid is bad as well.
Codes 25 and 41 *could* cause idle issues, sure. 41 is VRIS 1 which is normally open at idle. 25 is the FPRC which is only activated for warm starts. I wouldn't be too concerned.
By the way, you can test the FPRC and VRIS solenoids by just applying 12 volts to it and listening for a click. You could also suck air through with your mouth and see if it stops/starts with the voltage.
I got some things resolved.
Took out the two EGR solenoids behind the engine and obviosly my ghetto fix failed. The one that broke was supplying vacuum to both VRIS so that was whats throwing the code. Autozone only had 1 vacuum solenoid that cost $35 bucks, was for a GM and was NO and i needed NC.
So its time for ghetto fix 2.0!
This is what broke
This is a metal tube from one of those retractable antanae.
The second one is becuase the hose's hole diameter is thicker then the 1st tube.
Add rtv(not shown) and vwala!
(sorry for the pics being out of focus, i was too lazy to make good ones lol)
After installing it I ran the car again and goodbye code 41.
I took out the gas pressure regulator solenoid and tested it, it failed, would not close even after cleaning the contacts.
So now i need a VRIS solenoid(its the same as you mentioned). There is one on ebay for $10 but i rather try to find someone local.
That will remove code 25 so the only thing left is code 04.
What do you suggest about that? New dist?
I got some things resolved.
Took out the two EGR solenoids behind the engine and obviosly my ghetto fix failed. The one that broke was supplying vacuum to both VRIS so that was whats throwing the code. Autozone only had 1 vacuum solenoid that cost $35 bucks, was for a GM and was NO and i needed NC.
So its time for ghetto fix 2.0!
The VRIS solenoids aren't smart enough to report to the computer if there is actual vacuum passing through them. So that is unfortunately not the reason for the code.
Never know if that GM solenoid would have worked either.. if it's powered differently, the ECU would still throw a code.
Quote:
After installing it I ran the car again and goodbye code 41.
I took out the gas pressure regulator solenoid and tested it, it failed, would not close even after cleaning the contacts.
So now i need a VRIS solenoid(its the same as you mentioned). There is one on ebay for $10 but i rather try to find someone local.
That will remove code 25 so the only thing left is code 04.
What do you suggest about that? New dist?
Definitely hit up some junk yards for a solenoid. As I mentioned, the VRIS and FPRC solenoids are interchangeable.
If 41 truely went away with your fix, swap it with the FPRC then reset your codes and see if 25 comes back.
EGR solenoids are over-rated. They are also not "smart enough" to report if there is actual vacuum passing through them. Just leave them plugged in to the harnesses but not hooked up to vacuum and you won't get a code if they still actually work.
I dont see why a different solenoid wont work. As you said these solenoids dont report anything to the ECU, they are simple 2 wire solenoids, 1 wire is gnd the other goes to the ECU and is set there.
I highly doubt the ECU has a load sensing circuit on every output it has so it cannot know the difference between a mazda solenoid or any other 12v device I put there.
None of the junkyards around me have an mx6 or anything simular.
Why would I swap the EGR solenoid that i fixed with the broken FPRC solenoid if I already know its broken? Its anoying to reach back there and mess around with the EGR solenoids, If i want to test the FPRC code I can just take the VRIS 2 solenoid and put it there, this will remove code 25 and code 46 wont show up until 4K+ rpm. I dont see why i need to do this tho if I already confirmed the FPRC solenoid is dead.
Edit:
Today she is idling better. The rpms went up to 1100 so i closed the TB screw a little and now its idling at 750 pretty well, not perfect but more then good enough. I tried driving it and its not stalling like it used to, rpms might drop to like 500 but it will stay on.
Code 41 is back. Strange, i tested both VRIS solenoids and they are fine, maybe by fix broke again...
I dont see why a different solenoid wont work. As you said these solenoids dont report anything to the ECU, they are simple 2 wire solenoids, 1 wire is gnd the other goes to the ECU and is set there.
I highly doubt the ECU has a load sensing circuit on every output it has so it cannot know the difference between a mazda solenoid or any other 12v device I put there.
First of all, the ECU provides a ground to the circuit, not 12V. That alone could have shorted the circuit in the ECU. In fact, most items driven by the ECU are ground activated.
Since the solenoids are effectively little relays, how do you think the ECU knows when they fail? I would say by a current sensing circuit that goes below or above certain thresholds.
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None of the junkyards around me have an mx6 or anything simular.
Why would I swap the EGR solenoid that i fixed with the broken FPRC solenoid if I already know its broken?
I said 41 with 25, so that's VRIS 1 with FPRC... no EGR solenoid mentioned here.
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Its anoying to reach back there and mess around with the EGR solenoids, If i want to test the FPRC code I can just take the VRIS 2 solenoid and put it there, this will remove code 25 and code 46 wont show up until 4K+ rpm. I dont see why i need to do this tho if I already confirmed the FPRC solenoid is dead.
How did you confirm the FPRC solenoid is dead? I do not remember reading that. All you confirmed is that it's throwing a code.
I know how difficult it is to reach behind the IM and mess with any of those solenoids and vacuum lines.. trust me. If you pull the hood it makes things easier, but pulling the hood for what turns into just a minute or two of effort isn't really worth it. Have your slightly smaller buddy (forget his name) do it for you.
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Edit:
Today she is idling better. The rpms went up to 1100 so i closed the TB screw a little and now its idling at 750 pretty well, not perfect but more then good enough. I tried driving it and its not stalling like it used to, rpms might drop to like 500 but it will stay on. All thats left is these minor codes and the engine/drivetrain is in good working order!
Yeah, definitely good enough to drive around and see how it works out. Time to get some plates IMO.
Since the solenoids are effectively little relays, how do you think the ECU knows when they fail? I would say by a current sensing circuit that goes below or above certain thresholds.
Well that explains alot, i guess i underestimated the ECU.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastest95PGT
How did you confirm the FPRC solenoid is dead? I do not remember reading that. All you confirmed is that it's throwing a code.
Quote:
Originally Posted by solomondg1
I took out the gas pressure regulator solenoid and tested it, it failed, would not close even after cleaning the contacts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastest95PGT
I know how difficult it is to reach behind the IM and mess with any of those solenoids and vacuum lines.. trust me. If you pull the hood it makes things easier, but pulling the hood for what turns into just a minute or two of effort isn't really worth it. Have your slightly smaller buddy (forget his name) do it for you.
I missunderstood you before and I thought u wanted me to swap the EGR with the FPR solenoids. Its easier for me to do it because I did it so many times that I dont need to see what im doing at all lol.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastest95PGT
Yeah, definitely good enough to drive around and see how it works out. Time to get some plates IMO.
Yeah I was thinking about that but I want to iron out the kinks first.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastest95PGT
How are your feelings on it passing smog in NY?
I dont know how difficult it is to pass it because I never had a car that had trouble passing it. Im asuming after the CEL is gone, it should pass right?
I guess I edited my post as you where writing yours, i added that code 41 is here again but I tested both VRIS solenoids and they work.
I dont know how difficult it is to pass it because I never had a car that had trouble passing it. Im asuming after the CEL is gone, it should pass right?
NY has a dyno test for OBD-I, right? MA had that until a year or so ago, now there is no actual smog test (just visual) for OBD-I cars.
Just because you don't have a CEL doesn't mean you'll pass unfortunately. A lot of things, like a clogged cat for example, won't cause a code as there are no sensors anywhere near it.
Now im getting code 03 too, looks like the distributor needs to be changed. Anyone looking to sell one localy? Im in staten island, ny
I checked the 6 pin connector on the dist and im getting 12v(14.5) at the red/black connector lke it says on the site but it says to check the 5 pin connector and its a 6 pin connector...
I checked the 6 pin connector on the dist and im getting 12v(14.5) at the red/black connector lke it says on the site but it says to check the 5 pin connector and its a 6 pin connector...
The 93/94 have a 6 wire harness. The 95-97 have a 5 wire harness... though the same 6 pin size, one wire is missing as the 95-97 does not have the crank sensor inside the distributor.
I took apart and cleaned the dist and im still getting code 03 and 04
Is it possible that it is not the distributor and is something else?
Its weird that these codes only come up when the car is driven when they seem to be independant of the engine load.
Code 03 is supposed to come up when the car doesnt know where tdc is and then it changes when the injectors spray. This should not be dependant on of the car is driving or not.
Code 04 is supposed to prevent the car from being started but it starts fine, so what the heck is going on here?
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PARTING A LOT OF 2g STUFF
, you said "slighty"...
