Since then we have finshed rebuilding it, here is what was replaced:
main/rod bearings
bent rod with piston
piston rings
oil pump seal, rear main seal
gasket set: head gaskets, exhaust and intake and some other small seals
Where we are now is pretty close to square one. Turning over only with gas, if gas is released it will shut off. Smoking alot from the tailpipe and engine bay. Some smoke from the oil filler cap when removed but not much. What we managed to fix is the knock from the bent rod and the milky oil. The engine is also running smoother. We didnt do a compression test yet but I am pretty sure the bottom end of the engine is fine.
The burning oil could be a valve stem seal but what about not idling at all?
Here is a video of us turning the car on. All the reving the car is doing. I apply contant pressure, at first a little, then some more and then back down but always contant. Here it is not smoking as much as it was before but you can still see some. If you listen closely starting at about a :30 and 1:06 and during most of the video there is a sound comming from the firewall passanger side of the engine. This sound is also heard from inside the car.
and by running smoother, he means the engine is doing exactly what it was doing before: hold the revs within the 1.5k - 3k range and the rpms will surge up and down. lower the revs by letting off the gas slowly and it'll hold a tighter rev range under 1k. rpms max out at ~4k full floor and surges up and down.
the same surging up and down as i recall was happening before with the bent rod, but don't remember in what rev range.
not idling at all and having to hold the throttle to keep it running sounds like you've got a massive vac leak? intake manifold not torqued down? just a suggestion. lambera had this problem with his car and it wouldn't stay running unless he was pressing on the gas, and it also spit out lots of exhaust that made it smell like a lawn mower. ended up being that his intake manifold bolts somehow were only finger tight
oh yeah and just saw the part where you took the oil cap off and it didn't change a thing. you've gotta have some massive leak somewhere that's letting in more air than an open oil cap would
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Did you change the rear valve cover gasket and apply RTV? If you didn't replace the gasket, did you at least apply RTV to the old one?
Check the following hoses which we did not see in your video...
1. Rear valve cover hose attached to hard pipe.
2. Hard pipe attached to TB/VAF intake elbow.
3. Hard pipe attached to front VC hard pipe.
Did you replace any/all the vacuum lines on and below the IM while it was off?
and by running smoother, he means the engine is doing exactly what it was doing before: hold the revs within the 1.5k - 3k range and the rpms will surge up and down. lower the revs by letting off the gas slowly and it'll hold a tighter rev range under 1k. rpms max out at ~4k full floor and surges up and down.
the same surging up and down as i recall was happening before with the bent rod, but don't remember in what rev range.
By running smoother I mean its not shaking nearly as much and at 2k rpm there is no surging.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmxfuel007
not idling at all and having to hold the throttle to keep it running sounds like you've got a massive vac leak? intake manifold not torqued down? just a suggestion. lambera had this problem with his car and it wouldn't stay running unless he was pressing on the gas, and it also spit out lots of exhaust that made it smell like a lawn mower. ended up being that his intake manifold bolts somehow were only finger tight
oh yeah and just saw the part where you took the oil cap off and it didn't change a thing. you've gotta have some massive leak somewhere that's letting in more air than an open oil cap would
IM is spec torque
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastest95PGT
The smoke and idle issue are likely separate.
Did you change the rear valve cover gasket and apply RTV? If you didn't replace the gasket, did you at least apply RTV to the old one?
Check the following hoses which we did not see in your video...
1. Rear valve cover hose attached to hard pipe.
2. Hard pipe attached to TB/VAF intake elbow.
3. Hard pipe attached to front VC hard pipe.
Did you replace any/all the vacuum lines on and below the IM while it was off?
we replaced the gasket but didnt apply rtv, we will try that. The rear hose that comes out the rear valve cover and makes a u turn and goes into the metal pipe that then goes under the IM to the right side and connects to a hose that connects to another L shaped metal pipe that goes to the front valve cover is all connected. We also tried disconecting it which made no difference at all. Would not applying rtv on the valve cover gasket really cause this kind of leak? Im thinking it might be my cheap fix for the broken vacuum line in the back. http://images.geekazoids.net/vacuumklze_copy1.gif
The T connector that goes to the purpleish pink line that goes into the bottom solenoid, the solenoid part broke so i super glued and taped it, most likely not well enough. Is there a way to remove that vacuum line and cap it?
The only thing that Im worried about is that this might be a bent valve which would require taking off the heads again which is getting really really anoying. Could it be a bent valve or is it just the valve stem seal?
The only thing that Im worried about is that this might be a bent valve which would require taking off the heads again which is getting really really anoying. Could it be a bent valve or is it just the valve stem seal?
i wouldn't say its a bent valve at all.. cars idle with bend valves. I say its either a vac hose problem or a electrical/sensor problem
I may not be perfect, but I'm Canadian and thats close enough!!!!!!!!
19 is spec. So the oil is most likely the valve stem seals which we got 2 sets of so we can replace that but it should still idle. Im going to do an inspection with a leak tester.
Valve stems actually look pretty simple, after reading some guides the only thing that will be hard is we need to apply tons of force to get them back on. They should magnetize the spring compressor to make it hold the valve in place, puttng rope into the cylander is anoying.
The OE torque spec is low IMO. But be careful, we're dealing with aluminum heads and steel bolts... could strip a hole if you go crazy. When you used new gaskets, did you put RTV on them? I always put a thin bead of RTV around the intake port holes on both sides every time just to be sure.
Quote:
we replaced the gasket but didnt apply rtv, we will try that. The rear hose that comes out the rear valve cover and makes a u turn and goes into the metal pipe that then goes under the IM to the right side and connects to a hose that connects to another L shaped metal pipe that goes to the front valve cover is all connected. We also tried disconecting it which made no difference at all. Would not applying rtv on the valve cover gasket really cause this kind of leak? Im thinking it might be my cheap fix for the broken vacuum line in the back.
This just confirms your already confirmed vacuum leak issue. Pulling that hose is the same as pulling the PCV or oil fill cap. I was just having you confirm that the hoses were attached.
Just behind the throttle body, on that L pipe, there is another nipple which kind-of Y's off and goes to the throttle body to VAF intake elbow. Did you verify that it was connected? If so, are you running the OE hard plastic elbow... maybe it's cracked (very common problem)...
Quote:
http://images.geekazoids.net/vacuumklze_copy1.gif
The T connector that goes to the purpleish pink line that goes into the bottom solenoid, the solenoid part broke so i super glued and taped it, most likely not well enough. Is there a way to remove that vacuum line and cap it?
One tiny vacuum nipple being broken or missing would not cause as large of an issue as you are experiencing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by solomondg1
The only thing that Im worried about is that this might be a bent valve which would require taking off the heads again which is getting really really anoying. Could it be a bent valve or is it just the valve stem seal?
As another said, one bad valve won't cause your car to run as bad as yours is. I've worked on a couple ZEs now with broken retainers and 30psi compression in that cylinder which drove into my garage and had a rock solid idle.
Quote:
Originally Posted by solomondg1
19 is spec. So the oil is most likely the valve stem seals which we got 2 sets of so we can replace that but it should still idle. Im going to do an inspection with a leak tester.
IIRC, the Ford book says 16-18ft/lb, but it's been years since I tried to torque one of those. I always do it by hand.
If i apply rtv on the IM and valve covers i have to replace the gaskets next time i take it off to replace the valve stem seals because you cant reuse gaskets covered in rtv right? So i should do the valves and rtv everything in one shot?
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PARTING A LOT OF 2g STUFF
