I am new to posting on forums in general so my apologies ahead of time if I don't get everything quite right.
My 1995 MX6 was working great until about a year ago when it started to stutter and lose power when exceeding approx 3500rpm. I dont recall everything that I checked but for some reason I pulled apart the distributor to inspect for damage etc.., not removing it from the engine, then reinstalled. After doing this the car would turn over but not start.
Codes: 29, 41
Have fuel: smell it on all plugs and from intake.
Replace with Distributor, Rotor, & Cap (yesterday)
Replaced fuel filter (3 months ago)
New spark plugs & wires
Checked for TDC at cylinder 1 and compared to rotor position, this seems a little off to me, shouldn't the rotor be pointing directly at spark plug number 1on the distributor?
Mine appears to be about 30-40 degrees before spark plug #1 when cylinder 1 is TDC compression stroke and pulley mark lines up with "T" on the engine block. Perhaps the timing belt has slipped? I have not heard any severe or strange noises from under the hood.
Could codes 29 & 41 prevent starting?
Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks in advance.
If you compression test the motor and find one bank of cylinders has worse numbers than the other, that'll be an indication of mechanical timing being out as well...might be quicker than peeling back the timing covers and possibly removing the crank pulley to check that mark behind the crank pulley.
Finally got a chance to do a compression check on the MX6: Here are my findings.
Compression readings not looking so good :-(
Compression should be around 200psi on each cylinder with a low of 140psi, I am assuming that this is with a hot engine. So, with a cold engine here is what I have:
Dry Compression Test:
Back Bank (near firewall)
Wet Compression Test:
Back Bank (near firewall)
I have read that you should compensate 10-15% for a cold engine... any thoughts on that?
Could this difference between front and back banks be accounted for by a timing belt slippage (earlier post)?
Looks like some blow by on all cyclinders, to be exptected as the engine has 269K on it, any thoughts on this...?
primary object right now is to get the car running so I can get it down to have it inspected before the end of the month. Then address a possible rebuild.
Any thoughts, insights or suggestions are welcome and appreciated.
I pulled the guts of the old disty apart, inspected then re-assembled. Then no start condition. Then I replaced the disty and still no start condition. That was when I started looking at timing and TDC and noticed that the rotor position appeared to be off at TDC compression stroke.
Last night I reset the ECU (Pulled pos & neg battery leads and shorted them) and pulled the engine codes again. (previously cleared alarms by pushing brake method, perhaps that didn't clear things out properly?)
29 is gone replaced by 03
With 03 (camshaft position sensor) ... now I'm not sure that the new disty is any good, or could be the wiring harness.
Is there a good way to check the wiring harness going to the disty?
I have read that people have done it but not seen any details as to how.
Of course it still might be that the timing belt slipped or jumped a couple of teeth, I believe it hasn't been changed in about 120K ... and this new development just coincidence
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