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Old 5-7-12, 6:00   #1 (permalink)
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MX6 93 v6 suddenly stopped working.

I had just fueled up and was on my way home when the engine just died abruptly. As if power was cut off.

I waited a little while and then it started again, running normal up until 2000-2200rpm, where it died again.

It won't start right away, i have to wait 10-15min, then it sometimes start again, running nice, until i rev over 2000rpm. Then it dies again.
No sputtering or weird noises, just dies.
I tried running idle for 5-10minutes without it shutting off.

I changed the fuelfilter as i thought it was that, but it did not help.
2 month ago i changed rotor, rotorcap and sparkplugs + wires.

What might be wrong?
Ignitor? coils?
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Old 5-7-12, 12:29   #2 (permalink)
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My first guess would be your distributor... but not for sure since you can run the car and let it idle... that's weird.
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Old 5-7-12, 15:00   #3 (permalink)
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Distributor, isn't that the same as rotor and cap..?
It is confusing for me not native english.

I could try the old ones (i haven't thrown them away yet i think).
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Old 5-7-12, 22:15   #4 (permalink)
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rotor and cap are part of the distributor. There are still electrical parts that send a signal to the computer from the distributor. (it would be called the pickup coil) I don't think it can be replaced on these without a new distributor.

It could however be a fuel pump, or or ignition. I can't say what unless I was actually there testing it but I know you don't have the tools to do it how I would anyway.

90 626 GT. "Greenie" | 02 Focus SE "Foci" | I has green wheels.
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Originally Posted by Wibla View Post
Old cars dont die of old age, they die due to bad maintenance and clueless owners.
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Old 5-8-12, 10:15   #5 (permalink)
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Sounds like a bad distributor. Look up the 'HEI mod' for a cheap fix. A new distributor can cost you hundreds of dollars.

1997 MX-6 LS
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Old 5-8-12, 15:04   #6 (permalink)
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ok. I got a tip today that there might be a filter in the gastank also?
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Old 5-9-12, 6:16   #7 (permalink)
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Is hundreds of dollars much you think? I think it's worth it to get real parts.
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Old 5-9-12, 8:03   #8 (permalink)
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If the new distributor you get has been updated, then yes, spend the money once and never worry about it again, but if the distributor you buy is the same crappy design as the one that broke, then the HEI mod is worth it. I don't know if an updated distributor is available, but I seem to remember that if you buy from Mazda, they have an updated part. If you buy from an aftermarket supplier I believe it's the same crappy distributor that you have that may break again in a year or two.

Read about the hei mod here: http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-faq-mai...ei-module.html (20$ ignitor fix: Joe Bialy's writeup (HEI MODULE))

1997 MX-6 LS
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Old 5-10-12, 19:13   #9 (permalink)
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Sounds like a problem i had with my alternator in my old corolla, give it a bash as the brushes stick if car starts and goes for a while then that will be your problem, also when car starts see if running your headlights and radio drains power to your motor. I don't know a lot but this just sounds very familiar to my problem and if replacing the Spark plugs, leads, Dizzy cap has not fixed your problems try the obvious simple things. As for the guy above make your own thread...
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Old 5-11-12, 7:22   #10 (permalink)
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No, no other electricity in the car has any problems. I have lights, radio etc..

paulg: this original distributor has been running for 210000 km = 130500 miles.
so if an original unmodified runs that long... i won't have the car that many miles more.
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Old 5-11-12, 7:25   #11 (permalink)
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How do you know that? What tools are needed?


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Originally Posted by mikebontoft View Post
I know you don't have the tools to do it how I would anyway.
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Old 5-12-12, 14:26   #12 (permalink)
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2 tests done today:

1: shortened the two point in the testbox to run the pump. Pumped 1 liter in 30sec or so.

2: ran engine with strobelight connected to one ht lead. Flashed ok until engine died.
So ignition is faulty someway i think, unless the ecu actually cuts ignition in some cases?

Measured according to haynes the A and C poles of the primary coil, got 0 ohms.
Fine.. a short.. but as curious as i am i tried to measure as i should if it had been
a 95+ engine (between A and B), should not have done that, beacuse there i have correct impedance = 0.7ohm.

So now i am confused. IS haynes wrong? Is my distributor changed to a 95+ model's?

Haynes should have written:
if measuring A and B on a 93 engine, there should be either nothing or a fairy..
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