Millenia Alternator Questions

OldVAGuy · 10-29-12, 19:10

Hi Guys,

Hope that you all can help me out a bit.

Several years ago I found a post somewhere that said that a Millenia Nippondenso alternator with 110 A output could be fitup onto the MX6/Probe 2.5 L engines. Also that the Millenia had a 3-wire plug versus a 2-wire plug on the MX6/Probe.

I kind of stored that info away for future refernce if I ever needed to get a new alternator.

Well that time has come. Had to get a jump start 5-times in one day. Recharged battery next day. Then when I checked battery voltage both after recharge and again after startup the voltage went down!

This appeared to show me that the alternator was NOT charging and I am running purely off battery voltage.

Went to two junkyards. Each had one Millenia. First Millenia alternator was damaged; second appeared to be good.

I harvested the good one from a 1999 2.5 engine.
Did not find a Nippondenso label on it.

The label lettering is all faded-off. Can see embossed numbers that appear to indicate that it was manufacuted 11-1.

Since no readable lettering exists, I'm guessing that it is a remanufacuted Nippondenso type alternator.

Found an old posting thread of 4-27-08 by ALLMAZDA that stated that only1995-96 Millenias had the 110 A alternator. So I guess I could have either a 90 or 110 A rated product. Either way it should be the more reliable Nippondenso type instead of the Mitsubishi.

Also from the info on his post that some grinding would be required and that of the 3 wires, the new connection must go to a source wire that is HOT when the ignition is in the RUN position.

Unfortunately my browser could not open any of the sketches or pix that he had in that thread.

So, I have 2 questions for you all.

1 - Anyone have the pix and sketches that could do a repost so I can see where I'll need to grind? ALLMAZDA, if you are still a member, please repost sketch and Pics.

2- Can anyone confirm that I have the new Millenia wiring connector correctly interpeted as follows below:

Pin No. 3 on connector (White with Black tracer) to L wire from source.
Pin No. 2 on connector (Black with White tracer) to an Ignition RUN wire.
Pin No. 1 on connector (White with Green tracer) to S wire from source.

Note that the Pin 1 wire is larger in diameter than the other two wires.
Also that the Pin 1 - S- Wire would the position closest to the B alternator output connection.

Thanks folks for your assistance.

**Scatman95** · 10-29-12, 19:48

Your wiring looks correct, i have the same setup on my car.

I dont have any pictures tho, but I believe i ground one of the the insides of the "legs" to get it to slide up in there

**monoxidechild** · 10-29-12, 22:45

you only have to grind the alternator for clearance when you install it on a FS of F2 engine. you dont have to do any such thing for a KL install. you just have to have the millenia alternator bracket also.

and yes, that is the correct wiring.

OldVAGuy · 10-30-12, 16:18

Thanks to Scatman & Monoxidechild for the QC verfication on wiring/plug.

Scatman, any advice on where to route/tie-in the IG wire to a HOT in RUN wire?

Monoxidechild, can you describe the bracket & location on engine?
I thought I had grabbed everything of relevance to do the install including the Millenia serpentine belt in case it was much longer/shorter.

Looks like I may need a return trip to the junkyard. Gonna wait until all the Huricane Sandy mess is over for that!

Thanks again guys for your help.

**Scatman95** · 10-30-12, 19:14

I wired mine to the B+ going to the ditsy, i did this cuz i was wiring in a ZE ditsy at the time and the wires are close by.

**monoxidechild** · 10-30-12, 19:37

I tapped my 3rd wire off the fuel solenoid. but you can really find a key on 12v + source pretty much anywhere in the engine bay.

The alternator bracket is exactly that, the bracket that bolts to the block, that the alternator bolts to. its like 2 inch's wide. its very small, but needed to install the alt on a KL. Its different then the bracket used on the mitsu alts. If you buy a junkyard alt, just leave the bracket on the alt when you purchase it. its so small, they wont charge anything extra for it.

**cf_z** · 10-30-12, 21:11

Please post in here once you have it installed and let us know if you have any noticable gains.

My stock alternator is working just fine and im very for not fixing what isnt broke.. but this sounds like a good upgrade (im only even considering it because it uses all OEM products..). If there is any difference in the way it runs/performance especially chime in on that!!

**Scatman95** · 10-31-12, 9:17

Its basically just an extra 20 amps, no real "gains" persay. Good if u want to add some subs, which pull extra amps.

**cf_z** · 10-31-12, 11:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scatman95

Its basically just an extra 20 amps, no real "gains" persay. Good if u want to add some subs, which pull extra amps.

right.. but if someone out of that all sensors/wiring got a better voltage or computer gets better readings.

more just hopes and dreams, but i could swear i read monoxidechild post he noticed his ran a ton better or something.

**monoxidechild** · 10-31-12, 16:19

my car always seemed to be struggling for power during the winter when i had my lights on, the heater blowing, and the rear defrost on. The stock alt just wasnt able to keep up with the demand.

**Scatman95** · 10-31-12, 20:31

I have the same thing in my WRX, that rear defrost really sucks the juice.

OldVAGuy · 10-31-12, 23:22

Hey Monoxidechild, yes I DID grab the bracket for the fixed end of the Millenia alternator.
I thought I had taken anything that I might have needed. But your posting got me thinking.

When I went out to get the new alt to do a good cleanup on it I DID have the bracket and the two bolts for the engine block mounting. Only thing missing was the 8mm bolt for the alternator ear. Got that from the hardware store this afternoon, so all the mechanical stuff should be good-to-go!

Next the electrics then the swap-out.

As for "gains", wasn't really looking for anything much. Just maybe a bit more Amp ouput at idle and low engine speeds. Don't have any HO speakers or anything really "extra" power hog stuff.

Thanks again guys.

klze93419 · 11-3-12, 3:02

definately try to take some pictures when you install it as a write up or something PLEASE!! im sure a lot of us on here would benefit from having this swap with detail pictures and stuff..... or at least take a couple afterwards of how you did the wiring and such.

OldVAGuy · 11-19-12, 8:30

Hi guys,
Wiring done.
I Lengthened the two clipped wires (L white w black tracer & S white w green tracer), spliced these onto the existing

OldVAGuy · 11-19-12, 9:59

OOPS - full post didn't make it - sorry, so - CONT'D FROM ABOVE -

spliced these into the two existing wires.

Colors matched on mine (L - white w black tracer; S - white w green tracer) may not match on yours since mfr's change wire colors between years/models.

For center position Millenia IG wire, I spliced into the HOT wire at the brake master cyl low brake fluid waring light switch. Chose this because it's a KEY ON HOT that isn't needed for engine function. Only active if brake fluid level falls below min.

I wanted to do it this way so that the original connector could be kept in case installation should ever need to be reversed back to original alt type.

One mechanical item I should mention is the length of the Millenia thru bolt.

I shortened it by 1/4 inch. When I pulled Millenia alt @ junkyard had to use quite a bit of jostling around to get it free owing to the no-clearance to the fender well. Looking at the existing mounting location think it might be a PITA for conversion reinstallation.

The 1/4 inch less length is OK because you'll still have full thread engagement in the alt boss threaded insert.

I stopped my installation. Found a radiator leak that could spray coolant onto the alt.
Must replace radiator first. Don't want to contaminate the Millenia alt.

Guess I've covered everything for now.