Hey everyone, I just replaced the clutch and have a major problem. First off I'm having a terrible time bleeding the clutch. I've gone through two bottles of oil. Then I realized that when I start the car put in gear and let out the clutch without using gas, the car keeps running.it doesn't stall, and the wheels turn very slowly. Any ideas what might be wrong? The new clutch went in just fine, and I'm on my second new clutch master and slave. When I bleed the clutch, as soon as I loosen the bleeder screw the pedal hits the floor and takes three or pumps to stay up. Is that normal.
From your earlier thread, did you ever get that spider gear issue sorted out? Because even if the clutch is working properly, it still wouldn't turn the wheels if the axles aren't connected to the differential.
Is the car up in the air when you're doing your test or on the ground? Put both front wheels on the ground and then start the car and put it in gear and keep one foot on the brake and one on the clutch and slowly release the clutch.
Hey Nick, I ended up getting another transmission to replace the messed up one. The new ones spider gears were just fine. And yes Paul, I was testing with the car on jack stands. If for some reason I get the bleeding correct and it still doesn't engage, do you have any idea if it could be a defective clutch? The clutch went in just fine. I've done many before, and there were no problems at all. It is a basic stock clutch kit. The clutch fork moves back and forth just fine. Is there a way to see inside the trans to tell if it is engaging? A small cover or something.
Oops...forgot that your clutch pedal is dead. You don't need the clutch pedal to test if the clutch is engaged (pressing the clutch pedal disengages the clutch). Put the car on the ground and put it in gear. Turn the key to start for only a half a second with the clutch pedal down. It's probably better to pull the fuel pump relay before you do this because your car will jump forward when you attempt to start it (assuming your clutch pedal is still dead). Keep your other foot on the brake when you crank so the car doesn't jump too far.
Hey guys, You were right. I bled the master cylinder into the reservoir, then bled the slave. After getting all the air out, I put it on the ground and it worked. the pedal is still not as hard as I think it should be, but it works. Thanks for all the help! But now I have another problem. Now the engine sputters. When shifting through gears and driving there's not much power, like its starving for air or fuel. I changed out the plugs and checked the distributed cap, but still doing the same. Everything is connected as before. Any suggestions?
Thanks for the info, I don't know what connector it was, but I got a can of electronic spray and cleaned all the connectors that had to do with air and feul. It works just fine now. I must have gotten debris or oil in one of them from the swap. Again, thanks everyone for all the help. I know there are many write ups on the swap, but still it doesn't always go as easily as its written up.
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