I bought a 93 Mazda mx6. I put a distributor in it fired right up. Drove around the block before I parked it shut down. Now I cant get it to fire back up I've check spark I'm getting spark I've checked fuel I'm getting fuel then I did a system check and.came up with system code 41&46. Will this cause the car not to start? So confused..
The vaf is plugged in. But I did notice a rip in the air hose near the throttle body. About 2 inches long. Could possibly be problem? Or should I replace the vaf? I know these engines are touchy when it comes to its hoses....
97mx6 is right. You can disconnect the VRIS altogether, and it won't prevent the car from starting or running fine. Just a bit less power at or near wide open throttle.
A 2 inch rip in the rubber elbow between the TB and VAF, on the other hand, will cause definite problems. It means unmetered air is getting into the engine, so it is running much leaner than the VAF says it is. Because the VAF can't measure the air getting in through that rip. That would be especially a problem with a cold start, when it needs a rich mixture to get going.
As a temporary fix, seal that rip very thoroughly with glue or electrical tape or whatever. You will need to go to the Mazda dealer for a new one. It's a common problem.
Grab a couple of VRIS solenoids while you are there. Hint: the passenger side VRIS solenoid is usually bad. But the solenoid attached to the air filter box is identical, if you remove the little black oval thing with the Mitsubishi symbol and put it on a different nipple. (That little black oval thing is just a tiny air filter anyway).
Ok, no luck at the junk yard. So i bought some garrila tape and "fixed" the crack. Nothing.... So I said hmm maybe spark plugs? Checked and they were at .50! Holy smokes.. changed to .44 and turned the key and!!! Nothing........ SO, while I took each plug out I notices fuel on each plug.. so I know for a fact its getting fuel. So I tested spark from the end of the wire and each is getting spark... So now my thoughts are, maybe crankshaft position sensor? I don't have the tools or knowledge to do a timing check soo.. idk if it skipped timing.... Let me know your thoughts..
The 93 and 94 will run even if the crankshaft position sensor is disconnected. (the 95+ will not).
The distributors are a notoriously weak spot. And even cranking the engine over with the spark plugs disconnected can damage the disty, so there is a spark but it's too weak to start the car (I know because i did this once). I know you have spark, but is it a strong white/blue spark, or a weak yellow one? And checking for spark at the wires may not be enough, if it's not strong enough to jump the spark plug gap. And new (remanufactured) disty's are notoriously prone to fail.
Any chance one of the air hoses round the back of the engine has become disconnected? Have a look and feel around there.
When you turn the key and the engine cranks, does it sound normal, cranking at the normal speed?
Yes its v6. I double checked all vaccume lines and they seem fine. When i turn it over she cranks fast. It does this weird thing when I let the key go it turn over for a second after. Other then that.. I might end up trying a new distributor. Idk what color the spark is. I'll look tonight.
When i turn it over she cranks fast. It does this weird thing when I let the key go it turn over for a second after.
If it seems to crank faster than normal, almost seeming to spin, (despite the fact that the battery must be a little bit flat from your repeated attempts to start it), that does suggest that the timing belt has slipped. Because compression will be much lower than normal.
There are two ways to test this hypothesis:
1. Peel back the timing belt cover and see if the timing belt marks line up right.
2. Buy/borrow/rent a compression tester. Consistently low compression on all cylinders of one or both banks means it has slipped.
If the timing belt has slipped, compression will be too low to start, plus the spark will come at the wrong time.
It didn't seem faster then normal.. I used a jump box because I've killed the batt trying to start it.. I'm starting to think its timing.. if it is that's going to suck.... There's no room at all for a timing belt change....
There's no room at all for a timing belt change....
theres just enough room to do it
yeah sounds like timing might be off. if you dont have a compression tester, an easy way to check the timing marks without taking the tb cover completely off is to take out no1 cyl spark plug and putting a long flat head or whatever into the cylinder. then find tdc by turning the crank until the screwdriver is at its highest point (trying to find when the piston is at the top of its stroke). then pull back the top of the tb cover and check the marks on both cam pulleys.
you might have to do it twice to make sure the motors on its compression stroke.
Ok, thanks for the info. Saturday my dads coming up with a compression tester and we are going to check the timing as well. My fuel pump in my truck is going out as well so I get to change that now as well...
Ok, so I posted here once to explain what's going on but it seems it didn't post.. so! It is timing. Belt slipped. Bought a kit online for 60$. Includes 3 pullys and the belt. This upcoming sat I'm going to do the belt change... Keep ya updated.
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