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Jrock's 93 Mx6 build

14K views 58 replies 8 participants last post by  TwoPedalWarrior 
#1 ·
Well, I bought a 1993 Mazda Mx6 ls 5 speed a few months ago from Craigslist for $900. I have been reading through other build threads and thought I would create my own since I am planning on fixing this car up a little bit. :jump:

This is what i have started out with,
IMAG0053_zps5cbdee45.jpg Photo by jdogmonusky | Photobucket

Here is a little bit about the car and what I have done so far. Unfortunately right after bought it I hit an aluminum bar in the road and it thrashed the fuel tank so i had to swap that out right off the bat. The previous owners hit something on the passenger side so it was pretty thrashed, So I got a new front bumper and replaced the passenger control arm as well as the ball joint on the drivers side. While i was at the junkyard i pulled the KLG4 intake manifold and the KL47 throttle body to install soon.Those were the main things to get it running and driving correctly. I also swapped out the master clutch cylinder with a new one because the old one was leaking all over the cab. There are quite a few things left to do that I will eventually get to. I also recently painted it flat black with cheap paint so it is now one color. I will get pics uploaded of that soon.

To Come:
I want to replace the tan interior with all black. I want to find the black leather seats for it at a junk yard or something, if I can't I know a guy that can redo the seats in black leather. I bed-lined a few interior parts and really like the way it looks so I'm going to get all the plastic interior bed-lined with the spray on bed-liner. It needs a set of wheels and tires but i work at a tire shop so that should come soon.

I hope this will be a cool thread and will keep it up to date as i go.
 
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#8 ·
Ok cool. I bought a pair of silverstar headlight bulbs which was a great improvement in the brightness, just need to adjust the headlights. Also replaced the tail lights so the indicator light in the dash is off. But this morning I backed into a parking space and then straightened the wheel and the front driver side popped pretty loud. Just wondering what joint would do that? I already rereplaced the driver side ball joint and passenger control arm.
 
#14 ·
Got the klg4 in and started the car and it whistled and runs super rough. So then I put the stock manifold on and it still does the same thing. It sounds like air is coming out of the middle runner on the intake so I'm going to try double gaskets
 
#15 ·
Ok tried double gaskets still whistles and the only thing in that area are the small black boxes that mount under the intake so it has to be those vacuum lines, any ideas on what those black box things are called? I will get pics of them on here after work
 
#17 ·
YES!!! Finally got the intake in and running. So last night it took the stock manifold back off and looked at the fuel rails because I did the smoke test in the vacuum lines and that's where it was leaking, it turns out one of the o rings for the injectors was gone. So I started it this morning after hooking it all back up and it ran at 8-900 rpm at idle after warming up a little. The only thing is that the engine light is on all the time so I will have to figure that out.
 
#18 ·
My KYB struts and Megan Racing lowering springs came in. Very excited to install them, but I have to wait until the end of the week.:jump:




Update on Klg4 swap:
The car idles at 600-700 rpm's but it's kind of rough and the engine light is on after I unhooked the battery to reset it. I will have to pull the codes this time to see if I slimmed down the problem. I think I have most of the vacuum hose's hooked up correctly after looking through some other forum's write ups for install. If I can't get the engine light off I will post pics of how the vacuum lines are hooked up so I can get feed back on what's wrong.
 
#19 ·


I found a write up for the klg4 intake install and where the vacuum lines go on the probe forum and found this picture and used it to help me out. In the red circle i have a tee in it for the egr vacuum solenoid and I think it should be like it is in the picture instead. Then in the blue circle I read the probe forum write up there should be two tee's before the check valve, one for the egr vacuum solenoid and one for the hvac. If this is right please let me know, and which side would be before the check valve? White side or green side?
 
#20 ·
Since im off work today I'm going to try to tackle the vacuum lines and replace the passenger outer tie rod end. I'm still curious about the hvac, does the mx6 have an hvac canister or a vacuum hose that runs to it? Because I can't find it.
 
#22 ·
Tonight I adjusted the idle screw and now it idles like it should. I also changed the transmission oil, from pulling it out of the garage and into the driveway it feels way smoother. And then now, I'm thinking about taking the spoiler off and either running the mazdaspeed style or no spoiler. Not sure yet.
 
#27 ·
I think i got figured out, it idles at 1500 a lot but sometimes it will idle right at the 750rpm. Other than that it runs fine and the only cel code i have is the o2 sensor. Thanks for offering the help! And i have the egr vacuum hose venting air its not hooked to anything but I read somewhere its ok to do that?
 
#28 ·
usually the higher cold idle is your IAC valve is dirty or not functioning properly
a fix for that could be getting it cleaned, but thats about all the help i can be on that one, welcome to the dark side, have fun with the build and dont car what others say abot your vision
 
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