shut the door and car stopped - Mazda MX-6 Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 7-19-16, 16:59 Thread Starter
 
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shut the door and car stopped

Today I got in the car and started it up. Then I shut the car door, and the car immediately stopped. It turns over, but doesn't show any interest in starting.

That has to be a loose connection or wire somewhere. Anyone have an idea where I should look ? I have looked around, and haven't found anything yet.

Addition: I looked around the car some more. It really sounds like it is making a lot of effort just to turn over. I was able to pull back the timing belt cover on the front bank. There, on the camshaft gear, the timing belt has moved about 3/8" inward toward the block. It is still tight. Could this be the issue, and just one of those weird coincidences that the car stopped when I shut the door ?

If that could be the problem I can take off and put back the timing belt. I don't know why it is beginning to run crooked on the camshaft gear.

Last edited by epxepx; 7-19-16 at 19:33.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 7-20-16, 13:27 Thread Starter
 
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Anyone have an idea how this could happen ? Shut the car door, and the car stops,, and
won't start again ? Gives no indication it wants to start either, but does turn over, but slowly.
I can't find anything loose.

I probably have to take it apart to look at that timing belt issue anyway.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 7-20-16, 16:38

 
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engine codes?

1994 MX-6 LS ATX/MTX Swap
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 7-20-16, 19:35 Thread Starter
 
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No engine codes at all. When I turn on the ignition, the CEL will be on, then go out, no flashing.

I will have to take a look at the timing belt, to see what is causing it to go off track and move to the inside of the camshaft gear.

After I do that, likely it is going to be some other issue or reason why the car stopped. I was just sitting parked, having started up the car, and shut the door - it stopped immediately. But I haven't found anything else.

I tried tonight, it turns over, but seems like it is having to make an effort to do so. No indication it will start. If the timing belt is causing this because it moved inward, that would really be a coincidence with the door being closed. It is still tight. I will have to see if it jumped a tooth.

Last edited by epxepx; 7-20-16 at 21:26.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 7-21-16, 11:55 Thread Starter
 
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Here is a photo showing how the timing belt has moved. Before I dive into it, can anyone reply to these questions:

- any idea what could cause the timing belt to move inward
- can the car all of a sudden stop because of this, it is still tight
- can the timing belt have jumped a tooth even though still tight

After I fix the timing belt, and if the car starts, it will be an amazing coincidence with the door closing

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 7-23-16, 7:26 Thread Starter
 
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I took the car apart this morning. The car door shutting was a coincidence, but I must have someone watching out for me, or this car. The hex bolt holding the timing belt tensioner pulley broke. The timing belt then started to get twisted behind the tensioner pulley. Amazing this happened when I wasn't on the road, but happened exactly when shutting the car door getting ready to go.

I just put in a new tensioner pulley, bolt, and idler pulleys when I did the timing belt. I don't think I could have installed the tensioner bolt incorrectly. I had the washer on the back side, and all you do is screw it in. They were all in the timing belt kit. The tensioner bolt must have been defective, but I don't know what could have been causing excess stress or pressure on it to break. I still have the parts from what I took out, so I can put in that tensioner bolt.

The problem now is part of the broken tensioner bolt is stuck inside the engine. This is going to be a problem since this is sideways, and there is little room there to be able to get a center punch or drill up in that area to be able to make a small hole in that bolt piece to extract it. It's only a 2 or 3 inch space where you have to the tool horizontal.

Any advise on a tool I can get ? Maybe a miniature drill and extractor or something like that.

Last edited by epxepx; 7-23-16 at 8:55.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 7-23-16, 10:10

 
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I posted on the mx6 fb group to see if someone has an idea

1994 MX-6 LS ATX/MTX Swap
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 7-23-16, 12:13 Thread Starter
 
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I see some small drills from Asia that are only 3" wide including the drillbit. I'll have to get one
of those, or one used for computer repair or similar. I don't want to turn this job over to a shop
unless I absolutely have to, as I think they would end up destroying it.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 7-23-16, 13:53

 
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From king6

ither pull the engine or go thru a process of removing all the xmembers, exhaust, axles and all the mounts except the trans mount and lower the engine so it tilts out the passenger side. By then.. might as well pull it so you can drill straight. Seems like a major process, but that's a major part of the engine. Even if can find a angle drill to get in there, you still have to drill straight into a hardened bolt..then tap it for a helicoil

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 7-23-16, 20:08 Thread Starter
 
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I came across a 90 degree attachment you can attach to your drill. It looks like it will work, and it
is small compared to having to fit your drill there. After it arrives, I will post the result with it.

The only reason I can see how extra stress might have been put on the tensioner bolt, is Haynes manual
advised to loosen the tensioner bolt. Then when putting things back together, withdraw the pin from the tensioner
to activate it, last step then is to tighten the tensioner bolt. That's what I did.

Is it possible that the timing belt being very tight already, when you tighten up the tensioner bolt, you cause the pulley
to move in slightly, but the rubber of the belt being so tight and with friction, that you are left with side stress on the pulley and tensioner bolt ? What other reason can there be for why it broke ? It only lasted about 700 miles. Or just chalk it up that it was defective ?
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 7-31-16, 13:44 Thread Starter
 
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Here is the tool. It worked beautifully with a stubby drillbit. Plenty of space. It only cost
around $ 10. Milwaukee has the same thing under their brand name for $ 55.

Still have a hard time understanding why that bolt broke off.

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 8-1-16, 6:38 Thread Starter
 
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The drilling and bolt/screw extractor worked like they were supposed to. I was able to drill
a nice size hole, and the extractor grabbed solid. However, the broken bolt would not budge using the hand type tap wrench.
I was able to put a good size regular wrench on it, and give it way more torque than when it was
installed, but no luck at all. I don't think it is going to come loose.

I see some small extractors you can use with a drill, and I will try that next.

If it doesn't loosen, what is the best way to remove the remaining bolt without damaging the threads ? Can you continue to drill on the sides of the hole made in the bolt, with very small drill bits, eventually having little of the broken bolt left ?

Last edited by epxepx; 8-1-16 at 8:13.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 8-7-16, 19:24 Thread Starter
 
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I finished the drilling part. Now to do the tap and helicoil. The drilling was not difficult
with the tools.

It looks like you don't, or are not able, to fully insert the bolt so all the threads on the bolt are screwed into the hole. Only about half the threads go into the hole. Does anyone remember on their cars ? The bolt has the end on it without threads, must be to prevent you from being able to insert it too far, as it will dead end in the hole.

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