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need new engine

3K views 9 replies 4 participants last post by  epxepx 
#1 ·
From my earlier posts, I got the hole drilled for the tensioner idler pulley, and put in helicoil. It holds pretty well, but it will not stand up to the forces when the timing belt is moving and rotating the pulley.

I don't see any way this can be repaired.

That means I need a new engine. If anyone has experience where the best place is to buy a new engine, please reply.
 
#4 · (Edited)
I am going to try the Big-Sert insert. It is a solid insert, unlike the heli-coil, which is a spring type. I think there is a good chance it will hold.

The threads of the tensioner bolt are only 1/2" in length. That is very short compared to some other tensioner bolts. It seems like it would be better if there were more threads.

What is the reason for the smooth 1/8" of steel at the end of the thread ? It doesn't seem to be useful, except if you bottom out the
bolt in the hole.
 
#5 ·
Here is a tensioner bolt on the market for only 10 bucks. See how much longer the threads are ? It happens to be the same size 10 mm as the Mx6, so fits perfectly inside the tenioner pulley bracket.

I don't think I want to use it though. I don't know how far you can drill into the engine ! And
the Mazda one did work for 230k miles.

 
#6 ·
I went ahead and got a new tensioner pulley bolt from the Mazda dealer - and I am glad I did. It is a bil longer than the original tensioner bolt from Mazda. The long one in the photo fits on a lot of Ford vehicles and pickups. I am going to try and install the new Mazda tensioner bolt this weekend and get my car running again.

 
#7 ·
The product like JB Weld and Quicksteel don't do well in tension. I tried them, but as soon as the timing belt start turning, they fail. If anyone knows a product that works under tension, please post.

I would even just go and encase the tensioner bolt in the hole with cement or something, and never take it out. It is just a peg for the pulley bracket to swivel on.

The helicoil and big sert fail also, I think because the hole is not deep enough. I don't know what it is, but the material beyond what I have drilled so far seems impossible to drill through.
The drillbits don't even make a dent.
 
#9 ·
I went ahead and got a new (used) engine and transmission. Mainly because both had 240k original miles, and the transmission was starting to slip. Cost to rebuild that almost half of getting the replacement engine and transmission and having them put in.

Odd part is I ordered a KLDE engine. I got this engine, based on the long neck, it is a KLZE.
I am going to use the existing short neck manifold so I can still have egr and correctly working vris. I need egr to pass emissions inspection.

 
#10 ·
The replacement engine has KL 31 A on the front head, and KL 31 D on the rear head. I
guess the engine is KLZE.

Hopefully with the DE intake manifold on, and the egr hooked up, I can pass inspection emissions.

I understand the VRIS shift points will not be correct with this set up. Can anyone suggest a thread or post for how to adjust them to be correct with this set up ?
 
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