wp belt - overheat - oil light - Mazda MX-6 Forum
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 3-21-17, 19:00 Thread Starter
 
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wp belt - overheat - oil light

The water pump belt came off at highway speed, the pulley bolts came loose.

Water temp gauge went way up, I managed to get to the side of the highway. Found the problem, and put the belt back on, as 2 bolts were still remaining on the loose pulley. It started right up.

There was plenty of coolant in the engine, and plenty of oil. Some coolant came out of the overflow tank, but not a lot.

The car seems to be all right, but now the red oil temp light comes on the dashboard, and doesn't go off at speed. The next start up, it will stay off for a while, then come on and stay on. There is plenty of oil.

Could it be the oil sending unit got too hot, and now isn't working right ? What else might it be ?
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 3-21-17, 19:38
 
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Damn. I don't know.

You presumably mean the oil *pressure* warning light, not oil *temperature*.

When you say the oil light goes off when you restart the engine, and doesn't come on again for some time, does that mean the oil light goes off even when you restart a warm/hot engine? Or only after the engine has cooled down?

Replacing the oil pressure sender would be a cheap and easy thing to test.

I wonder if it is possible that the overheating caused the head to warp, so some oil pressure is escaping somehow? (I wouldn't have thought that would happen, but I don't have any other theories.)
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 3-21-17, 22:44 Thread Starter
 
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It's the red light on the dash. I don't have an oil temperature gauge.
There was very little smoke when the car shut down.

When I turn on the ignition, it shows, then goes off, like normal. After a short time running the car, then it comes on, and stays on.

I guess I will drive it for a few days and see.

Being that it was full of coolant, just not circulating, maybe the engine is okay. The oil light is a bit odd, because there has always been plenty of oil.

Last edited by epxepx; 3-22-17 at 2:26.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 3-23-17, 23:21 Thread Starter
 
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Here is what has happened so far.

Red oil light would flash on and off a short time after start. On highway, would flash, then stay on. Hit a bump, went off complete. Came on again short time later.

Installed new oil switch sender. Same thing. Went around a corner at high speed, light went off. Later that day drove back 20 miles at highway speed, light off the whole time. Arrived close to my destination at lower speed, light came on.

Oil looks and smells normal, not using oil. Since the incident, engine has a new, small noise, kind of like a valve lifter, noise goes away soon after start up.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 3-26-17, 21:44 Thread Starter
 
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I changed out the engine oil filter, and engine oil, plus engine restore. For a day on the highway, there was no light. Today it returned. It is not on when the engine starts, only after about 10 minutes or so.

The car is running fine, and not losing oil. There is that different sound, like a rattling sound, that wasn't there before the incident. When you press on the gas, that is when it sounds. If you then coast, it goes away.

You can hear it more inside the car than if you open up the hood. When you open up the hood, and speed up the engine by hand, you don't even hear the rattling sound.

How to connect the rattling sound to the red oil pressure light on the dash ?
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 3-29-17, 13:55
 
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I suspect that you have probably run a big end bearing when the engine got so hot.

1991 MX6 Turbo 4WS back on the road again after 5 years.
1990 4WD Capella Wagon2.0 FE3 now tin cans.
1988 4WD Capella Hatch 2.0 FE3 DD
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 3-29-17, 22:02 Thread Starter
 
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I guess it's wait and see. Driving today, the oil light flashed starting out, but once on the highway, at highway speeds for 40 miles, it didn't come on at all, and engine runs good.

Listening to some video, it sounds just like a connecting rod bearing going bad. Like hitting a piece of tin, ticking, faster when you accelerate, stops when coasting.

Is this worth it for a shop to repair ?

Last edited by epxepx; 3-29-17 at 23:02.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 4-1-17, 11:11 Thread Starter
 
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Advise was to mix in some heavy weight oil like 20w 50. I did that, the red oil light
hasn't come on since then. Noise has quieted down some.

Supposedly engine can last from 3 days to 100,000 miles in this condition, just depends.

A new problem and new noise for me. You only hear the tapping noise when inside the car, because it is coming from the bottom part of the engine.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 4-1-17, 13:09
 
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This will only get worse, the more you drive it the more damage gets done. It is possible to change the big end shells with the engine still in the car, if the crankshaft is not damaged and the shells haven't spun in the big ends. The fact that the sound us gone with heavier oil may mean that you can get away with doing this.

1991 MX6 Turbo 4WS back on the road again after 5 years.
1990 4WD Capella Wagon2.0 FE3 now tin cans.
1988 4WD Capella Hatch 2.0 FE3 DD
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 4-1-17, 22:28 Thread Starter
 
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The tin clicking noise is faint now, and only under acceleration, or load. When at a constant speed, no sound like that. Running very smoothly at 65 mph on the highway.

It sounds like a major expense to repair it. I may wait and then get a new used engine if
it fails. Advise is just not to put it under heavy acceleration or load.
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 4-1-17, 23:07
 
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Yes, if you can't do it yourself then you are looking at paying a few hours labour. Don't wait for it to get worse, it will, and probably fail on you at the worst time.

1991 MX6 Turbo 4WS back on the road again after 5 years.
1990 4WD Capella Wagon2.0 FE3 now tin cans.
1988 4WD Capella Hatch 2.0 FE3 DD
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 4-2-17, 13:30 Thread Starter
 
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Don't the pistons have to be removed to be able to get the connecting rod bearings
repaired ?

That sounds like an expensive job. Plus you're not 100% sure what all could have been
damaged. It gives all the symptoms of a damaged connecting rod bearing.

When I changed out the oil, there were a few specs of metal. Very litte though.
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 4-2-17, 22:23 Thread Starter
 
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I see the bearings are not expensive to buy.

Can you get to all the connecting rod bearings with the engine in the car ?

Reading up, you have to drop the exhaust pipes, then remove the oil pan. Then you get access to the connecting rods.

Then just loosen and take off the bearing caps and old bearings, and put in the new bearings with the old bearing caps ?
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 4-2-17, 23:06
 
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I wrote a reply this morning before work saying pretty much what you have just written and then it got lost. Yes, that is exactly what you do, one at a time. If the bearing shell has not spun and scored the mating surface in the big end you should be pretty much OK. I have done this quite a few times, mostly successful. You only have a few dollars and some time involved in trying it. You will need a torque wrench to tighten the caps back up with, don't try without one, it is the crush that holds the shells and stops them from spinning in the caps, not the little tangs on the shells.
I have a Mitsi GTO at the moment that the big end bearing shell did spin, I replaced the shells anyway as I was that far in, but it knocks under load once the oil gets hot, an improvement over the continous knock it had before, but replacement engine time.

1991 MX6 Turbo 4WS back on the road again after 5 years.
1990 4WD Capella Wagon2.0 FE3 now tin cans.
1988 4WD Capella Hatch 2.0 FE3 DD

Last edited by gbilski; 4-2-17 at 23:20.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 4-4-17, 1:54 Thread Starter
 
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I have a KLZE. Would you happen to know if the connecting rod bearings are the same as the KLDE 2.5l ? I see on other sites, they say they are the same.

I have taken off the EGR valve a few times. To do this job, you have to to take off the EGR pipe connection to the exhaust pipe, and both exhaust pipe connections. That is not exactly a picnic. Getting to the EGR valve connection is a real headache. Well, not a headache. Just have to take off a lot of stuff to get access to it.

Last edited by epxepx; 4-4-17 at 2:37.
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