1. When I am driving my car and get it into higher rpm's you can start to hear a winding, I just put a new alternator in it and I went home for Mothers day and the Tensioner pully bolt came 3 times the way out (at least it didn't fall completely off going 70 down the highway again. Anyways I tightened it up Next time gonna use Lock tight on the dang thing, but then I tightened the belt but I Am wondering if I tightened it to much if it was cause the winding. Any Suggestions?
2. When I have my car idling its the main time when I notice the ticking not quite loud enough for knocking, I was thinking it was the HLA's but when I got out to listen to it one day it sounded more like it was coming from the Timing Belt area. I don't know where the HLA's are anyways, but I was just wondering if anyone might know what these 2 probs are caused by. The Ticking speed up with the rev of the engine also.
Ticking seems to be related to the HLAs and can be cured (to some degree) by diligent oil changes.
I noticed that the ticking subsided considerably when I changed the oil in my daughter's car a few weeks ago.
The winding noise is something else. I seem to remember that this usually was an indicator of an alternator bearing. Does it happen at high rpms when the car is not moving too?
A little trick I learned for isolating noises. Get a long metal rod. A screwdriver will work if its long enough. Press one end to the area of the engine that you suspect, and then carefully press the other end to the area just in front of your ear above the hinge of your jawbone. The noise is transferred to your skull and you can hear noises in the engine as if you were using a doctor's stethascope.
I noticed on the knocking part of it that when I push in the brake it gets worse and I let off the brake its not as bad, the fluid is between min and Max. Also when I down shift to slow down more the E-Brake light comes on as well as when I use the brakes to slow down. Any Suggestions?
Fill your brake fluid all the way to max. the sensor for the brake fluid is near the back of the reseviour, so when you brake the fluid goes forward and it thinks it's low, and sets off the light.
Das00
Used to be - 92 626 v6 MTX (mx-6 5 door )
Home made CAI, 16mm rear sway bar, ported IM, 64mm TB, full Pheno's, home brew STS, DIY RSTB
15.77 at 88.75mph <-- well it felt fast to me.
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