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Old 5-14-01, 20:04   #1 (permalink)
The Hack
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Question

I just got my 96' mx-6 M-edition 3 months ago!
and It is the most awesome car ever!! but just recently my valves have started rattling something awefully, I keep my oil level up and changed. Does anyone know what causes this and How to fix it. Is there something I am not doing?
Thanks for any help!

TheHack
K-town,TN
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Old 5-14-01, 21:01   #2 (permalink)
chefn01
Tell me, Mr. Anderson, what good is a phone call when you are unable to speak?
 
 
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hey got the same prob lemme know something if you find out and I will do the same 4 u
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Old 5-14-01, 22:06   #3 (permalink)
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rattling or ticking loudly?

--97 S-10-- V8 Swapped project truck

--2002 Nissan Maxima-- Grocery Getter 5000
--91 Maxima-- Bone Stock Beater

1993 MX-6... Sold
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Old 5-14-01, 22:15   #4 (permalink)
The Hack
Tell me, Mr. Anderson, what good is a phone call when you are unable to speak?
 
 
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whats the difference between Rattling and Ticking

Could you explain the difference between the two! The sound is really bad when I give the car gas and it changes gear (auto) or when I am going up a grade. But it used to not do that, It would take any grade with out even the smallest noise!

TheHack
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Old 5-14-01, 22:21   #5 (permalink)
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Does it only do it when the engine is under load (accelerating up a hill)?

It sounds like pre-ignition to me (also known as valve rattle), but not the HLA ticking that plagues these cars sometimes.

Pre-ignition is caused by a knock sensor not telling the PCM to retard ignition timing perhaps (The plugs are firing too much before the top of the compression stroke). Another cause is low-octane fuel (knock sensor should accomodate for that), or carbon build up (too much heat causing preignition).

Too bad you don't have a 93-95, or you could pull the engine codes yourself. Has the check engine light come on?

Tyson
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Old 5-14-01, 22:23   #6 (permalink)
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umm... rattling is a series of ticks???

could be failed HLAs

and the good new is theyre only $40!!!! and you only need 24!!!!

check this site for more info...

http://www.bradbury.cwc.net/probemx/index.htm

--97 S-10-- V8 Swapped project truck

--2002 Nissan Maxima-- Grocery Getter 5000
--91 Maxima-- Bone Stock Beater

1993 MX-6... Sold
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Old 5-15-01, 16:54   #7 (permalink)
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What exactally does HLA stand for? I know that my car makes a ticking noise(can barely hear it w/ hood down). I just figure that it was a fuel injector that needs replacement. My noise pretty much goes away when the revs are increased.

Joe
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Ich werde deine katze toten.
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Old 5-15-01, 17:46   #8 (permalink)
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hydraulic lifter assembly

change your oil joe...

i couldnt tell you if it was a failed HLA or something else without hearing it...

--97 S-10-- V8 Swapped project truck

--2002 Nissan Maxima-- Grocery Getter 5000
--91 Maxima-- Bone Stock Beater

1993 MX-6... Sold
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Old 5-15-01, 17:52   #9 (permalink)
The Hack
Tell me, Mr. Anderson, what good is a phone call when you are unable to speak?
 
 
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Yes it does happen when I go up hill putting the engine under load. It maybe the HLA, but I would like some more info on th Pre-Ignition problem. Do you all think this is important enought to take it to the Mazda dealer or can I fix it on my own?

Thanks for all replys
The Hack
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Old 5-15-01, 21:47   #10 (permalink)
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To see if it's preignition, you can put some higher-octane gas in. Octane is sometimes referred to as "anti-knock index (AKI), knocking being the same thing as pre-ignition.

Another cause is too-far advanced spark timing, but that should not be an issue on these cars.

Tyson
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Old 5-16-01, 13:12   #11 (permalink)
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hey, I just changed my oil! its got maybe 500 miles on it.

Joe
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Ich werde deine katze toten.
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Old 5-16-01, 18:50   #12 (permalink)
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how long was it before you changed it?

the Hack... try the higher octane gas. if that doesnt work, then... well... i dunno. but if you determine that its the HLAs, its pretty easy to fix, if youre mechanically inclined. of course, its easier on the 4-cyl but you shouldnt have any problems with the KL.

--97 S-10-- V8 Swapped project truck

--2002 Nissan Maxima-- Grocery Getter 5000
--91 Maxima-- Bone Stock Beater

1993 MX-6... Sold
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Old 5-17-01, 9:19   #13 (permalink)
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If you haven't done it yet, and it is your HLA's (hydraulic lash adjuster), try switching to Mobil1 synthetic oil. Many people have had very good luck when switching to this oil is quietening the noise down or rendering it non-existent.

From Julian's site:

Some HLA noise during cold engine startup is quite normal. During shutdown, the 24HLAs are in varying degrees of compression
depending on where the 4 cams stopped at shutdown. Those HLAs experiencing the greatest compression from the cam-lobe
(against a 175lb/in spring) will take longer to pump up at a cold-start compared to their less compressed counterparts. This HLA
pump up time is further compounded by the time elapsed between starts, and to a lesser extent dependent on where the HLAs is on
the oil path - HLAs at the top left of the rear bank (cyl #1) taking slightly longer.

The actual mechanism of the noise from HLAs is a function of the degree of lash between the cam lobe and HLA surface: when
HLAs are pumped up with clean oil & operating correctly they maintain this lash at zero for all rpm (and thus achieving the
self-adjusting maintenance-free operation of HLAs). Some HLA noise is not from the HLAs but from a friction-gear used to reduced
backlash noise from the two cam-drive helical cut gears on the camshafts - for aesthetic noise reasons. Oil cleanliness has a direct
bearing on HLA & Friction-Gear noise incidentally, as well as the acoustics of reflection of noise from the oil-pan oil surface, hence
after an oil change an engine may be noticeably quieter.

Oil choice
Mobil Delvac1 5w40 has much stronger detergents, water absorption (TBN) and anti-wear package than Mobil1, which is of particular
interest to noisy HLAs. It is the best engine oil made, suitable for diesel & gasoline engines, meeting API SJ, ACEA B3 and
Japanese valve-train tests, as well as extended-drain requirements. Delvac1 is US-only, and has helped marginal US 944 & M3
HLAs. However, European Delvac1-SHC is not suitable for petrol engines however.

Best oil: Mobil-Delvac1 (US only). Equivalent: Mobil1, Redline (not race oil as lacks detergents), Comma Full-Synthetic 5wNN (UK),
Amsoil-2000, Valvoline Synpower. Best weight is 5wNN. Mobil1-Delvac1 has higher Ash figures than Mobil1 and is really only useful
for it's higher anti-wear, longer drain intervals and stronger detergents for cars with continuous HLA noise (which is alleviated by oil
changes).

Castrol Syntec/Magnatec
Not a Synthetic PAO/Ester based oil, it is a Group-III mineral oil "chemically pseudo-synthetised" hydrocracking to convert wax
impurities (very undesired re sludge) into longer-chained oils without loss of volume thereby maximising profit per raw barrel of
material. Owners of Audi, BMW, Porsche & Mazdas have reported black gloops of wax deposits coming out during oil drains which
are not good for drain-pan screens or HLAs. Ash content is 1.2%, higher than any of the PAO/Ester based synthetics (<0.5%) and
higher even than plain Castrol GTX at 0.7%. Ash forms deposits on valves and sludge, as HLAs will indicate. There are better oils on
the market than this, for the same price or cheaper. Unfortunately Mobil taking Castrol to an advertising tribunal merely had the
effect of allowing just about anything to be classed as "synthetic" when it's not a Group-IV/V PAO/Ester base.

93 Probe GT MTX
Mobil Delvac1, NGK plugs/wires
Powerslot rotors, Axxiss metal master pads, goodridge SS brake lines
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Old 5-17-01, 16:26   #14 (permalink)
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That was the first oil change that I preformed. The person that I bought it from said that he changed the oil every 3000 miles, but you never really know. I did get mobil 1 however.

Joe
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Ich werde deine katze toten.
Sold my MX-6 but, I bought a 2002 Chevy Blazer Extreme
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