I recently got an exhaust dump for my '94 6er LS on the stock exhaust, and now in the last week, the car has died suddenly after about 10 minutes of driving (the engine just stops running and the check engine light comes on along with the others that come on in the ignition stage of turning the car on). There are times that it runs for hours on end, but in these two occasions, it just died. I pulled off to the side of the road and about 2-3 minutes later it started. I hadn't even really been giving it gas when it died.
The car has 122km on it (not sure what that is in miles), and I know that the disties tend to go around that mark, but if the disty goes, why was I able to restart it? Do you think that it has anything to do with my new exhaust dump?
The head lights and radio still works once the car dies, so I don't think its battery related, but I can't be sure (alternator perhaps)?
the first thing i would do is pull the CEL (Check engine light)codes. its comming on to tell you something is wrong. you can pull those by doing a simple procedure. click here hope this helps. its really easy to do.
Jonathan
Wouldn't the check engine light stay on if the ignitor was busted?
And wouldn't the engine die more often?
My buddy has a working prob disty that he can give me - if that fits, will it solve the problem (assuming that it is the ignitor)?
Or should I just try to get a new ignitor?
Sorry if these are dumb questions, I'm still learning all the ropes.
Thanks for the help.
You guys rock - paying some chump mechanic to look over the car could have cost me nuff cash....
Originally posted by Baconman6 I can't do a check engine code reading (although I already know how to do it) cause the light goes off almost immediately...
If you put a jumper between pin 10 and ground the lights will blink all the stored codes.
2005 Stage 3 SRT-4
1995 V6 MX6 Turbo, SOLD to Holger Boosting in Germany
I looked at that msd box installation that you posted, but look what I found on the last slide:
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There appears to be some differences between the 1993 Probe GT tachometer electronics and those of the Mazda 626/MX-6. This writer was unsuccessful in making the tachometer work on a 1994 Mazda 626 with a MSD 6A BTM even though the exact same set-up worked on a 1993 Probe GT. The MSD tachometer adapter may resolve this problem.
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I would hate to put the work into it if the guy already tried on a '94 626 (mine is an mx6, but same sh*t).....
I have the MSD according to those instructions and no the tach doesnt work. However....It can work if you get the tach adapter and I have both the adapter and the instructions to wire it up. I ended up getting an autometer tach so i never hooked it up. Let me know if you want it.
2005 Stage 3 SRT-4
1995 V6 MX6 Turbo, SOLD to Holger Boosting in Germany
So if I buy this MSD box from Radioshack, and hook it up according to the instructions in that ppt, will my car work again?
Or will I probably have to do a bunch of other ****....
How much would you want for that tach adaptor?
I am just thinking that I could spend 250 on a refurbished disty, or 250 on an MSD 6a ignition box and both would fix the problem, so why not spend the money on something that will make my car sweeter, right? Am I thinking along the right lines? Assuming that this is the typical busted transistor in the disty, will hooking up an MSD box totally fix my problem?
I cant remember how much I paid for the adapter let me dig it out of my garage when I get home from work. But yes if your ignitor has failed the MSD will resolve the problem and give you a hotter multiple spark for cheaper or the same price.
2005 Stage 3 SRT-4
1995 V6 MX6 Turbo, SOLD to Holger Boosting in Germany
Originally posted by b4tn I cant remember how much I paid for the adapter let me dig it out of my garage when I get home from work. But yes if your ignitor has failed the MSD will resolve the problem and give you a hotter multiple spark for cheaper or the same price.
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