rear caliper siezed.....again

**toronto93mx6** · 2-12-04, 9:56

this is really pissing me off now, it looks like when i release the ebrake the caliper is not releasing with it, the caliper is still holding the tension. I have a 93 and i've read the problem was corrected in 94. But for some reason ppl on probetalk are recommending buyin 96 calipers. I was wondering if there is any major difference between the two years of caliper that i should know about before installing?

thanks

2-12-04, 10:30

Sorry to hear that mate the rear calipers on these machines are fvcking crap. You could strip it down re-grease and re-install.

lac_frak · 4-9-05, 12:37

It will happen again next spring if you rebuild them. Every year arround this time ppls rear calipers sieze.

**AAlonzo** · 4-9-05, 13:18

problems were not corrected 94. The calipers were redesigned in 95, and even still, they had seizing issues. You can probably get them to release again if you grease the hell out of the pivot of the hook that clamps the e-brake. If you want a 1 time solution (well, pay once atleast) get yours from autozone and make sure you get the one with the lifetime warranty

**fun2look@** · 4-9-05, 16:15

Sorry to hear about your rears, the same thing happened to mine, the first time I took it to midas and they charged me 250 and told me they would be fine, well they were, for 2 weeks. Then I decided to get my car washed and parked it on a slope; I guess all that water didn't agree with them, cuz this time- they were just froze up tight- no Pb Buster or lubricant of any kind let those pieces of [shizzle] go. I was dirt poor and still am largely so I bought me some 95 rears from Hughes and stripped them down (removed rust) painted and re-greased them with some teflon+ lithium spray stuff that DuPont makes and step-by-stepped my ass through the Mazda service guide.

I didn't have the time or ability to completely restore the calipers I got, so after I got down to the shinier metal I painted the calipers with some rust converter in order to battle with losing alot of invested time.

I played around with both calipers and really saw no noticeable differences, I even shined a light down into the hex nut hole. Between the illustration of the mechanics and what I saw with my own eyes, I believe I have a pretty good understanding of the rear calipers now, but what I do not understand is why the parted '95 calipers keep working and why the OEM '93 calipers are still dead- after all, the rust situation was worse on the purchased calipers than with my ex-resident calipers.

From my experience, get them replaced if you don't have the luxury of down-time, if you do and want to save the money ask Hughes for some '95's. I don't know if he knew how poor I was @ the time, but he gave me a real fair price on them.

lac_frak · 4-9-05, 16:22

There must be a difference. Maybe its just they used a stiffer spring on the 95+...

**DragonZealot** · 4-10-05, 7:46

The seal on the pivot pin is different on the new design.

lac_frak · 4-10-05, 10:51

do you have a pic? Maybe we can get: new design, old design pics so everyone knows.

But then why when you rebuild the 93 calipers do they keep siezing when you put the 95+ rubbers on them?

**schwinn** · 4-10-05, 13:10

Grease it, baby. I greased mine when I bought the car (used) and have never had an issue.

**Kimboy** · 4-10-05, 20:09

The fenco remanufactured calipers I picked up at Autozone.com perform well. Even if you ask for a 95 or 96 caliper, its still the same stock number. How many times has this problem occured? Please don't drive around trying to release the caliper, as that will kill your pads and cause excessive heat to the rotors and it will boil the brake fluid in your lines. I've learned that from experience, you should be able to lie on the ground and release the arm that is stuck with a long screwdriver.

**DragonZealot** · 4-10-05, 20:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by lac_frak

do you have a pic? Maybe we can get: new design, old design pics so everyone knows.

But then why when you rebuild the 93 calipers do they keep siezing when you put the 95+ rubbers on them?

You can not tell the different from the outside. You have to take the pivot pin out. There is a groove near the bottom of the pivot pin. This is why the new design seals better.

When they rebuild they can not put 95 seals on the 93 caliper. It won't fit. They have to put 93 seals which is why they kept siezing after a while.

The rebuilds should all be 93 - 94's because there is no or very few 95+ that need rebuilding.

Only way is to get rebuild with lifetime warranty (still a hassel) or buy new from Mazda ($$$). Either way it SUCKS big time.

lac_frak · 4-13-05, 15:46

Just the answer I was looking for.