Tie Rods- To test this raise your front end up, and lower it onto jack stands placed underneath some portion of your control arms. Then, place your hands at 9 and 6 o'clock and move the wheel back and forth (laterally). If it will wiggle, have a friend feel along your tie rod to figure out if it's your inner or outer end that's got the play.
Strut mounts, ball joints, wheel bearings, or tie rod ends. Jack the front end up and rest it so that the jack stands are on the control arms. Now, grab a tire with your hands at 12 and 6 and try to shake it as if you're adjusting your camber. If there's play, have someone grab your lower ball joint while doing it, to see if it's moving. If not, have them feel/watch your upper strut mount. Then, move your hands to 10:30 and 4:30, then 7:30 and 1:30and do the same thing. If there's play here, it's your wheel bearing(s). Finally, do 9 and 6 and check out your tie rod ends. Have someone grab the outers first, but don't forget to grab the accordion-type sleeve and feel the inners. (This was taken exactly from Rick, who’s word is generally accepted as law and is not to be argued.)
Water pump
Generally when the water pump goes bad it just leaks coolant (usually under the passenger side of the engine compartment), and in this case the pump will need to be replaced. It’s not a good idea to put this off since it has a major effect on the cooling system of the car. One misconception is that the water pump cannot be replaced without removing the timing belt, but in fact it can be. Some do say it’s easier to just take the belt off. For instructions on replacement, please check the following thread http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19870 (Timing Belt/Water Pump Replacement)
For a guide as to how to remove and install the lower control arm I am using a post by Mr. MX6, and he is to be given full credit for the following (again)
Removal
The following is a list of the lower control arm‘s related components.
1 Ball Joint Clamp
2 Stabilizer Control Link-to-Lower Control Arm
3 Ball
4 Rear Bushing
5 Lower Control
6 Front Bushing
7 Front Bushing Dynamic
8 Stabilizer Control
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the front wheels.
3. Remove the ball joint clamp bolt.
4. Remove the stabilizer control link-to-control arm nut.
5. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle.
6. Remove the two lower control arm rear bushing bolts.
7. Remove the lower control arm front bushing bolt.
8. Remove the lower control arm.
Installation
1. Position the lower control arm against the underbody of the vehicle.
2. Install the lower control arm rear bushing bolts. Tighten the lower control arm rear bushing bolts to 93-131 N-m (69-96 lb-ft).
3. Install the lower control arm front bushing bolt. Tighten the lower control arm front bushing bolt to 78-106 N-m (58-78 lb-ft).
4. Install the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle.
5. Install the ball joint clamp bolt. Tighten the ball joint clamp bolt to 34-57 N-m (25-42 lb-ft).
6. Install the stabilizer control link-to-lower control arm nut. Tighten the stabilizer control link-to-lower control arm nut to 36-54 N-m (27-40 lb-ft).
7. Install the front wheels. Tighten the wheel lug nuts to 88-118 N-m (65-87 lb-ft).
8. Lower the vehicle.
Alternator
The alternator is a coil located above the compressor that recharges the battery while the car is running, and is more prone to fail when under stress such as a high powered stereo system. There are no production alternators being made that are stronger than stock. Ask a local shop if they can create one, but beware of the high price. Generally the alternator going bad will cause the charge light to come on. If and when it does go bad, the car will only run for the amount of time the battery alone can sustain it, which is usually around 3 miles on a fully charged car, no stereo, no lights. Some gauges will not function in this event.
To check the alternator, place the ignition in the “on” position, and check the voltage at the back of the alternator. Be sure that no electrical accessories are running. When the vehicle’s ignition is at the “on” the alternator should read the following:
A crack in the throttle body elbow will allow unmeasured air into the system. This will cause the car to run very lean since there will be more air entering the combustion chambers than the fuel amount can handle. This can cause the engine to run poorly when it is warmed up, but should run fine when the car is cold since the car runs in a loop mode, supplying more fuel.
Acceleration hesitation
Spark Plugs-Generally a hesitation in acceleration is caused by worn or failed spark plugs, which may not fire under heavy stress.
Spark Plug wires-Worn wires can cause a spark failure due to a failure to transmit the electrical current.
Fuel filter-Check the fuel filter to ensure that is it not clogged or providing any problem that could cause a fuel delivery failure.
Air filter- Check the air filter to ensure that is it not clogged or providing any problem that could cause a shortage of air.
Fuel Pump- (Most common diagnose is during hard cornering, especially left, if you're at less than 1/3-1/4 tank) When taking a hard turn the fuel pump is supposed to keep the fuel lines pressurized, but when the unit fails the pressure is lost, which cuts the fuel feed to the motor. Simply replace the fuel pump to solve this.
If there is a long, almost screech when turning, or the turning becomes very difficult, especially at lower speeds look into the power steering assembly; inspect all of the lines and fitting. Ensure that there are no leaks, and if there are most likely the unit will need to be replaced.
Resetting the ECU
To reset the ECU perform the following steps. This will reset all codes if the PCM is throwing a code.
1. Disconnect the negative cable of the battery.
2. Turn on the lights, or press the brakes for 30 seconds to remove any residual power.
Adjusting the hood and hood flapping
Under the hood (on the corners of the frame) there is a rubber bumper that has a screw adjustment. Simply turn the screw clockwise or counterclockwise to adjust it up or down as needed so the hood do no longer shakes, or sits too high/low off of the fenders.
Ticking Motor (HLA’s)
Most commonly this is the hydraulic lash adjusters that cause the ticking sound when they compress. One of the most common ways to reduce the ticking, and possibly eliminate is to flush the engine. To do this perform the following
1. Drain oil except one quart, or you can drain all the oil and add one quart of new oil. (Starting with a new oil filter is recommended).
2. Add the remainder as kerosene, approx. 3 quarts.
3. Start the engine. Do not rev the engine.
4. Let it run until warm, not hot, just warm. About 5-10 mins.
5. Drain the entire contents, during or just after you can continuously pour kerosene into the engine until it comes out clear.
6. Add one quart oil, 3 quarts kerosene.
7. Run the engine again until slightly warmer. Do not rev the engine.
8. Drain the entire system.
9. Again if you think it requires, you can pour Kerosene into the non-running engine as it drains out until it comes out clear.
10. Pour about one quart of oil and let it run out of the oil pan.
11. Add your favorite oil/oil filter.(replace oil pan plug...)
12. Run engine until it’s at operating temperature. Check to make sure it is running ok.
13. Optional…you can drain the system one last time and add new oil filter and oil…
Heres a thread I was looking for. I read it when I first joined this site. It will answer many questions about the history of ford and mazda. It will make a good read to all those that will ask about the history.
My limited knowlege is that when you are not moving there is less air flow cooling the motor and passing through the radiatior. In otherwords the heat stays near the motor.
Yes sir. That big hole in the front of your bumper is to allow air to pass into the engine compartment while you're moving. Obviously when you're not moving, the air just sits there, which is why cars have fans to cool themselves off when idling.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ragincanadian4
There's a lot of times where it seems he tries to sound smart by stringing together a bunch of words, but it just ends up making no sense and he ends up looking like a [fizzle]face.
i did a search, and everything i found was questioning the 4ws, rather than explaining what it is....
Q: What is 4ws and how does it work?
edit:
sorry if this has been asked 1 billion times
4WS is four wheel steering. It is actually a rear steering rack, it works in conjunction with the front steering rack and a hydraulic system with a 4ws ecu to help steer the car.
On the 2nd gen it wasnt available in america, only europe and asia/australia.
Below 60kph (or somewhere close to it) back wheels steer in the opposite direction to the front wheels. ie
/ /
\ \
Above that figure the back wheels steer the same way ie:
/ /
/ /
And before you ask no you can't modify a usa 2nd gen to fit 4ws unless you wont to spend an absolute fortune doing it.
hope this helps
Sold: 93 MX6 4WS
Current Car: R32 Skyline GTS4 Sedan
Alright another silly question. Does the lower control arm from the Ford Probe fit the Mx6? I've got a 93, so I'm assuming like a 93 Probe. I just don't know if they're structorally the same.
Alright another silly question. Does the lower control arm from the Ford Probe fit the Mx6? I've got a 93, so I'm assuming like a 93 Probe. I just don't know if they're structorally the same.
Thanks for the help!
-Mary
yeah they should be the same probe/mx6/i4/v6
1999 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP 2 tons of 13.9 @ 100.84
1984 Mazda RX7 Project Muscle Car Wannabe
1993 Mazda MX6 LS Sold
1995 Mazda MX6 RS Sold
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
