By request from several users, im gonna write up a little on what it takes to install a KLZE engine ....
A klze engine looks exactly like a kl03 ... except for its intake manifold wich you can get in a couple different variations ...
with the different intake manifold, different cams, and a couple of other internal differences, is how the extra power is made..
its pretty much a direct bolt in ... if you feel comfortable doing a KL03 to KL03 swap, then you can do the KL03 to KLZE swap ...
I didnt do anything with the EGR system .. I just plugged the electrical solenoid back in ...
you will have to swap distributers from the KL03 to the KLZE, because the j-spec had a External Ignitor .. (isnt it funny how the J-spec, got all the good sh1t??, Stronger engines, Projector lights, Obviously not the same distributer problem, Probably different rear calibers, some had 4WS, aluminum door sills, digital climate control...) ... we americans sure got ripped off!!!! LOL!!..anyway
The KLZE, using a vastly different intake manifold, has vastly different VRIS points than the KL03 V6. The familiar 3250/4250/6250 points in the KL03 are transformed to numbers like 4060/4780/6812 in the example of one KLZE engine. By running the KLZE with KL03 VRIS points, you are not taking advantage of the KLZE resonances properly and the output suffers. An especially big hit occurs at the 6250 point where the power takes a bit hit when both valves close. The other points being off result in lumpy power delivery.
The KLZE also uses a more aggressive timing curve than the KL03. It has EGR code in it but it is disabled since the KLZE, being a J-spec motor, does not come equipped with EGR hardware. There are other subtle differences as well.
A true KLZE PROM will not work without a true KLZE VAF sensor because the KLZE and KL03 VAFs are different. I'm not certain what corksport qualifies a KLZE PROM as but I suspect it's a hybrid: the airflow, fuel and idle calculations of a KL03 with the spark, VRIS, EGR and other subsystems from a KLZE. This way the PCM works fine with your VAF and runs the KLZE pretty much as intended. This is a guess: I don't know what cork' actually changes in the PROM...
IMHO, $395 is highway robbery, especially in light of an already higher-than-average price for the KLZE long-block. Removal of the PROM chip is a 10-minute affair, programming of a blank, $2 PROM perhaps 10 seconds and installing a socket and reassembling the PCM another 10 minutes. However, since they are one of the only players doing the work, they can pretty much charge what they like.
Are they willing to provide dyno plots showing a KL03-spec PCM versus their "KLZE/03 FrankenPROM" running a ZE so you can judge for yourself if the PROM-work is really worth it?
some vacumm lines will have to be re-routed ... (this helps if you are or know a mechanic ... I have a couple friends that are mechanics,, and they were able to do this, just by looking at it, and figuring out where they should go..)
You will have to have an aftermarket intake .. the stock airbox will not fit in the car after the ZE's long Throttle neck ... If you dont have a CAI, then you can just buy a 3" conical filter, and put it on the VAF directly ...
IT is also a good time to get a new clutch, do the water pump, and timing belt tensioners .. and some do the VCG's , I opted not to do mine, because these engines are low miles or should be when you get it, it should be a couple of years before you have to do the VCG's anyway ... but if you do do them , get the phenolic spacers ...
then you proceed to taking the stock engine out .. remove all the upper connections, hoses, electircal harnesses .. take out battery tray, take off intake, .. then you can proceed under the car, undo all bellhouse bolts, all mounts, exhaust .... (its also a good time for headers and O2 sensors!!!) ... pull the engine out with the tranny still attached... it will be much easier that way ... once engine is out seperate tranny .. throw in new clutch .. bolt up with the ZE ... drop back in .. once you are all bolted back up ... you should be good to go!!!!
If youre not replacing the clutch, be sure to make alighment marks from the clutch disc to the hub, and flywheel to pressure plate. as far as the rest of the engine swap goes, a chiltons or haynes shouldnt leave you too much in the dark...
Tell me, Mr. Anderson, what good is a phone call when you are unable to speak?
Location:
I noticed the various engine types you wrote down, and am a little curious about the JSPEC KLZE motor. Probably because it boasts the most HP listed. V6? Price? Your opinion about it? Just a few questions.
NOS97PGT at probe talk just posted an excellent tread with How-to instructions on making a CAI. This ain't no dryer hose settup either. I would insert a link, but I have no Idea how.
I think that a how-to section would be great in the FAQ.
I am always looking for how-to's, and I bet so do alot of other members.
Pictures of finished installes would be nice too. Things like intakes(not just homemade), ignitions, chips, fuel mods, headers, exhaust.
Helps to know what stuff is supposed to look like.
corksport.com*******parts
mazdamotorsports.com*****more parts
probetalk.com******alot of things similar to this site only probe focus instead
buybodykits.com***********the best kit prices
93 mx6 4cyl
strut konig flight 16 in custom int. tunabe g-force muff.plans for buddy club kit, turbo, intake fuel reg. and many more before summer.too much weed my car is fogged out
the true defination of how the VRIS system works ...
******* this is quoted by Mike94PGT***********
Imagine a turning fork and a speaker, side by side. Connect the speaker to a audio signal generator that sweeps from 20Hz to 20000Hz. Turn on the generator and crank the volume up, pointing the speaker at the tuning fork. Slowly wind the generator from 20Hz up...
When the frequency of the signal generator gets close to the frequency written on the side of the fork, it will start to vibrate. When the frequency of the generator matches that of the fork, it will vibrate alot and the system is said to be in "resonance". As the frequency moves on past the resonance frequency, the fork will stop vibrating again.
Now consider a flute: a hollow tube of specific length with holes placed strategically along it's side. If you blow across the end, you hear a note. If you change which holes are covered, you change the note that's played. What's happening is that the effective length of the flute is being altered by covering/uncovering the holes. This changes the natural frequency of the flute and thus the note you hear.
In the engine's intake manifold, you've got a similar setup. The engine changing speed is equvalent to the change in frequency in the speaker example. The pulses of the speaker are similar to the pulses produced by the action of each cylinder's intake valves (and chamber pressures when the valve open etc...) The tuning fork might be considered to by the medium - the air in the runners in this case. As the engine runs through the RPM range, the intake valves open and close faster and faster as engine RPM increases, just like the speaker pulses faster and faster as the frequency dial is turned. The length of the runners, their volume, manifold pressure and temperature etc all determine at what frequency the air in the runners & surge tanks will resonate -- that is, vibrate just like that tuning fork.
During times of resonance, the vibrating columns of air (which, though moving, still can support a standing wave) can actually help charge the cylinders. A vibrating column of air has dense sections and rarefied (low pressure) sections. If the standing wave is just right, a dense section of air meets the valve just as it opens. The denser air pours into the port, moreso than if resonance (and thus this standing wave) wasn't happening. The effect is a very mild "supercharging".
But the engine RPM is always changing. If there was only one runner length, there would only be one resonance point. Mazda makes the manifold like a flute that can resonate at several wavelengths by making the runners have variable effective lengths. They do this by using butterfly valves in the manifold to direct air a "long way" or a "short way" (#2 is primarly responsible for this). Closed, the path is "long" and the primary resonance frequency is low. Open, the path is short and the primary resonance frequency is higher. By further changing the frequency in each surge tank (by opening or closing #1 valve, which exposes the each bank to the others' intake pulses, effectively doubling the frequency each surge tank sees), they manage to get several points at which good standing waves are set-up through the RPM band.
In the KL03, the VRIS (variable resonance intake system) plates are controlled by the PCM, which is looking at engine RPM and loading (throttle angle) to know when to open the valves. #1 opens at 3250, which doubles each surge-tanks' frequency. #2 opens at 4250 which then shortens the average path length by 1/2. At 6250, both valves close.
This 6250 point is a bit of a let down. The natural tendency would be to further shorten the path length but the realities of aluminum casting (driven by packaging and cost concerns) rears its head: there's no provision to make things even shorter. The only recourse they have is to revert to the longer path and lower frequency and rely on the 2nd-harmonic to provide a reduced-but-still-effective ram effect. It's a compromise and one of the things I dislike about the KL03 manifold.
I am interested in doing the 200 Hp KLZ v6 swap in my 94 cyl. 6 but I was wandering if the swap was worth it.How would I go about fixing it? and Will the aftermarket parts for the american v6 work on the jap motor?I am up for all suggestions.I have about a year to consider it.Thanks for your feedback.Also if I did not put this question in the right area could someone tell me where to post this and how?(computer elliterate)
Tell me, Mr. Anderson, what good is a phone call when you are unable to speak?
Location:
i was wendering where i could find a web sithe that sell an cold air intake for my 93 mx6 ls v6 i cant find 1 if you know of eney just let me know thanx
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.