Tell me, Mr. Anderson, what good is a phone call when you are unable to speak?
Location:
hey i live in cali and i want to buy a 6;
but i need to know if an out of sate mx6 will pass emission testing here in cali without costly mods.... someone please help me if u kno, and dont be afraid to email me, i really need to kno asap !!! thanx all
Tell me, Mr. Anderson, what good is a phone call when you are unable to speak?
Location:
flywheel
OK. LISTEN I NEED TO KNOW WHATS THE WIEGHT OF AN ORIGINAL 1993 MX-6 V6: 5SPEED FLYWHEEL. THAN I WILL LIKE TO KNOW THE SAME FOR AN MX-3 V6: 5SPEED. REASON IS BECAUSE I NEED AN NOT SO LIGHT FLYWHEEL BUT LIGHTER THAN STOCK W/O ANY ENGINE PROBLEMS.
In my opinion the best intake is the home depot intake or the modified prelude intake. Both are cheap to make and yield the same results. The prelude intake will look better than the home depot intake. The part number for the K&N filter that will fit a 3 ½ inch ABS pipe is RU-3130. It will also fit a 3” pipe extra clamping is just required. The Cold Air intake will make your car sound different as well as give an approximate 3-5 hp
A Muffler is not a performance upgrade! You will gain if you are lucky 1-2 hp by adding just a muffler, the stock muffler is already pretty decent. The key is to get mandrel bent pipes with a slightly larger size. The size of the piping is based on your future plans for the car. If you plan on staying naturally aspirated 2 ¼ is fine. If you plan on boosting or using nitrous 2.5-3” is best.
Once again here is my personal opinion. All of them are overpriced! If you live in sever weather conditions then I might see the need for stainless steel but otherwise I think it is better to have a custom catback made. I ordered the 2.5” mandrel bent pacesetter catback and had my own resonator and a different muffler put on. The sound is basically based on personal preference. A well designed catback will net 5-10 hp once again that is being generous.
Underdrive pulley:
As far as I know there is only one company that makes one and that is [url]http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/url] I have heard hearsay about custom made ones but havnt heard much more that that. The pulley does just what it says it underdrives. It is lighter and frees up Hp by reducing rotational mass on the crank. It does come with drawbacks though. Because it is smaller it it doesn’t turn your accessory belts as fast. This will cause AC to not work as well and it also may effect your power steering at idle as well as your alternator output at idle. I have heard rumors that because it doesn’t have a dampener to reduce crank vibration it can kill a motor. I have had mine for almost 3 years now with no ill effects. The pulley will let your car rev slightly quicker and gain around 5hp
Thermal spacers:
http://www.outlawengineering.com/index.html
These are spacers that go between the intake manifold and the head. The full kit comes with a spacer that will go between the throttle body and the Intake manifold. These are not really a power adding mod. These will help keep the power as your car heats up by reducing heat soak. The throttle body gets very hot because it has hot coolant running through it. The Heads are hot because of the coolant combined with the combustion process. The spaces isolate this heat from the intake manifold keeping incoming air cool.
Bored out throttle body:
About the biggest you can go before degradation of sidewall integrity is 65mm. I may be wrong but I don’t think any companies do this. You have to remove your throttle body and take it to a machine shop. Make sure you take it to a reputable place and make sure they cut the butterfly plate at the proper angle. Some people have had idle problems (including myself) after installing one. In most cases after driving around for awhile the idle will settle down to normal
I don’t have much experience with the Jacobs but I hear that it is possible to install. I have installed the MSD and am very happy with the results. To install the MSD you will need some basic electronics knowledge and a modified distributor cap. If you have a 93-94 you can get a special adapter from MSD for free and not have to cut any wires. Otherwise you need to modify the disty here is the write up http://rs-productions.com/RSP_Motor...nstallation.ppt
An aftermarket ignition will allow you to run a larger gap in your plug, give a multiple spark discharge for a complete burn, and should improve gas mileage, throttle response, and power.
Last edited by Ruubstr94Ls : 11-1-03 at 15:15.
If you aren't living on the edge...Your taking up to much space..
There are many options here. You can search around for a used KL-ZE manifold, have yours port matched, or find a Eunos manifold., All of which will open the ports up a bit and allow for more air. There are some problems though. The Eunos manifold has clearance problems and the ZE manifold requires a bit of fabrication and creativity to get installed keeping emissions in tact. For the ZE manifold the throttle cable will need relocated and some of the vacume lines will need to be tee’d. Also if you have the stock ECU your VRIS points are not going to be correct. You will need to somehow change your points either by a VRIS controller or by re-programming your ECU. http://corksport.com sells the ZE manifold for an ungodly price. Your best bet is to watch the forum for someone who is selling one.
I use the Mallory and am very happy with it. It now has 1, -8an or 1/2" input and 3, 3/8" additional ports. In addition it does have a 1/8" npt port as well. The bypass or outlet is also -8 an or 1/2". You will need to get the appropriate steel braided hoses as well as fittings to install this. You will also need to get Mike Baxtors FPR adapter from http://mbxmotorsports.com You can remove your stock fpr, plug in the adapter, and run the lines to your AFPR. All the fittings and lines can be purchased from http://sumitracing.com The draw back is it doesn’t hold fuel pressure so it may take a bit longer to start the car in the morning. This can be resolved by giving the car a quick crank let it sit for about 2 seconds then turn it on. The adjustable Fuel pressure regulator allows you to adjust your fuel pressure to give the perfect about of fuel for your mods. A dyno with an Air Fuel bung is required to tune this properly.
Highly recommended! Especially if you have your stock pump your old one may be getting tired. In my opinion the walbro is the best. A 190 lph will be perfect for a stock replacement and even a shot of nitrous. However the 255 high flow is not that much more expensive. You might as well get the big boy to plan for the future. A fuel pump is required if you plan on running lots of boost or nitrous.
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by b4tn
Aftermarket ignition:
I don’t have much experience with the Jacobs but I hear that it is possible to install.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I sugest that a search on the net would be in order before considering jacobs, there are many mixed reviews.
Crane: http://www.cranecams.com/
Is offering a free coil with the Hi-6 (Part Number 6000-6440) and Hi-6 compact sport. 30 days left for this offer (june 30th). It hooks up exactly like a MSD, it is the 6AL's direct competition. It uses pot selectors for the rpm limiter, unlike MSD's pills and is a digital design.
This has been debated many times over. I don’t think the flywheel will add peak power. From the dynos I have seen it did nothing for peak power. However it will reduce rotational mass and it will make your car rev much quicker! It adds power but only for launching. I don’t realy know how to explain it other than that you will reach your power band quicker and get better launches off the line. The fidanza is for the hard core person who doesn’t mind having to rev match it is pretty pricey but I have heard nothing but good things about it. It weighs in at 9lb.
The MX3 flywheel is for the cheap at heart. It weighs considerably less than the stock flywheel at 13lb-15lb. You can usually get them at junkyards for around $50. I have the MX3 flywheel and am very happy with it. It revs noticeable quicker. Don’t forget that both flywheels will need to be taken to a shop and resurfaced if they are used.
There are many more out there but these are the three most common. The ACT has a very stiff pedal feel and a strong grip depending on which stage you get. Both South bend and clutch masters have modified the pressure plate to get maximum holding power while keeping a stock pedal feel.
It is amazing what an aftermarket clutch feels like! I have a Clutch masters Stage 3 and will never go back to a stock clutch again. It makes the car much more responsive, holds in the higher RPM range, and gives very solid launches. Lots of info can be found on these clutches just do a search and find the style that suits you needs. For nitrous and turbo apps generally the stage 3 is recommended. For N/A applications the Stage 1 is good. Also a braided Clutch line from http://rr-racing .com is recommended.
If you aren't living on the edge...Your taking up to much space..
I actually made my own by cutting the ball out and turning it upside down. It works and I have no major complaints but it just doesn’t look nice.
Ther are a few others out there but once again these are the most common ones. I have seen all three and of all the rr-racing one is the nicest. It comes with poly bushings and a bearing to make nice smooth shifts. The short shifter will allow for quick precise shifts, it is almost a must with a lightened flywheel.
Old tired or ripped engine mounts can reduce traction, loose horsepower, and make shifting difficult. You can get stock replacements but it is actually cheaper to get rafi’s inserts from rr-racing.com. They are very durable and I had no problems getting them installed. I noticed right away that shifting was easier. I have not seen any dyno plots proving that they make more power. One of the draw backs is vibration, while sitting at an idle the car does vibrate more than normal. The general consensus I got is the mazdaspeed mounts are too stiff almost solid.
Headers:
Bosal Brospeed: http://www.spmotorsports.com/probeexhaust.html
Hotshot: http://rr-racing.com
Pacesetter: http://nopionline.com or http://summitracing.com
Lots and lots of debate on which is the best header and why. It has been dyno proven the pacesetter headers make the most power. However, they are also the worst craftsmanship. In addition to being poorly put together they do not Have equal length secondary so the sound of the car is going to change drastically. If you can deal with the sound, and the poor craftsmanship, these are the cheapest headers out there. It isn’t that expensive to have a flex pipe welded on in place of the ball joint and have some of the welds re-done
I have not seen this personally but the bosals supposedly make a power across the entire band. I don’t know much more about them other than they have a ball joint and are overpriced.
The hotshots, until lately have been the best crafted best sounding headers available. They are ceramic coated, equal length secondary, and have a flex pipe. They are a bit pricey but most people highly recommend them. As of lately though the quality has been sort of poor.
Those are the most popular kits. For a very food FAQ on nitrous and our cars go here http://probetalk.com/forums/showthr...&threadid=59818
The differences between the three is wet and Dry. I am not very familiar with the wet kit but I do know it allows you to use larger shots where the dry kit is limited to around 75hp. The most popular is probably the NOS Mustang EFI kit. There is lots of info on installing it on the forums. Before you even consider using nitrous you should just to be safe get a better fuel pump and check your compression, ensuring that all cylinders are with 15% of eachother. To make things safe you should use an MSD window switch to set the spray rpm’s you can get these from http://summitracing.com I use the NOS kit and have had no problems or complaints I am perfectly happy with it.
Cams in this car can add up to 15hp! By far the best alaround deal is to get a re-grind from mike seli. He makes many grinds and will discuss with you which grind is best for your application. He can also get the colt cams.
The ZE cams can sometimes be found online for a decent price they better than the 03 cams and will give nice power but they are hard to come by and expensive from corksport.
Reprogrammed ECU/Stand alone Engine management:
I am not very familiar with this subject, I do know that buying an off the shelf pre-programmed ECU is a huge waste of money. The only way you will get anything decent from an ECU is to get your car on the dyno and have the tuner program the ECU according to your car.
Throttlebody coolant bypass
Keeps the tb nice and cool
I think that is all of the major engine bolt ons you can get. If I am missing something post it up. There is still suspension mods to get into but I will let someone else go there.
If you aren't living on the edge...Your taking up to much space..
Acronym details
Air Dam: A skirt that replaces the front stone-shield of a car. The air dam helps to redirect the flow of air around the car at high speeds which in turn helps to create a type of suction to the road.
Back Pressure: The amount of pressure that builds up in an exhaust system due to a restrictive muffler.
Boost: Referred to the amount of extra air (compressed air) pumped into the intake manifold by a supercharger or turbocharger. Usually measured in psi (pounds per square inch), inches of mercury, or bar.
Bore & Stroke: (B&S) Refers to the size of your piston (or bore) as compared to the length the piston travels (stroke).
Bushings: Typically rubber or polyurethane pieces that fit between two metal parts. Bushings are used to absorb friction and noise as well as provide a cushion between metal parts to prevent wear or breakage.
Cam Gear / Adjustable Cam Gear: The cam gear is connected to the end of the camshaft. The timing belt connects the cam gear to the crank. An adjustable cam gear allows you to adjust the cam without removing the timing belt.
Cam Profile: The shape of each lobe on a camshaft. Measured in Degrees.
Camber: The angle along the vertical axis of the tire/wheel when looking at the car directly from the front or the rear. Camber is affected when cars are raised or lowered from stock. Negative camber is when the top of the tire is tilted closer to the car and the bottom of the tire is tilted outward (when looking from the front or the rear). Up to a certain degree (no pun intended) negative camber is ok and may even be desirable.
Cam Shafts or cams: A long thick bar in your motor (for OHC's it is located in the head of the motor) with lobes that control the opening and closing of your valves.
Catalytic Converter: Found in the exhaust system after the headers and before the muffler. It takes hot exhaust and eliminates or reduces the harmful gases by means of chemical reaction.
Cat Back Exhaust: The part of the exhaust system that comes after the catalytic converter.
C/R: Compression Ratio: C/R is the difference in the volume between the combustion chamber (area at the top of the piston when it is at TDC) and the displacement of the piston. The higher the ratio, the more power the combusted gases produce.
Connecting Rod (Conrod): Metal rod that connects the piston to the crankshaft.
CV JOINT: Constant Velocity joint -- a type of universal joint used in the transaxle. They ensure that the input and output shafts are rotating at the same rate.
Cylinder Head: The part of an engine that houses the valve train, exhaust and intake ports, combustion chamber, distributor, spark plugs, etc. It sits on top of the engine block.
Detonation: Occurs when hot spots (caused by engine deposits) in the combustion chamber ignites the air and fuel mixture prematurely. Also occurs after combustion if any unburned fuel is left in the combustion chamber. Also known as engine knock. Places great stress on the engine and leads to the destruction of the engine if ignored.
Differential: A gearbox that allows the transfer of power from the engine to be split into two outputs (axles) that can spin at different rates. During turns, the outer wheel needs to spin more than the other. Without a differential, turning would not be a pleasant experience.
DIY: Do it yourself
DOHC: Double Overhead Cam -- engine designed to use two camshafts; one for intake and one for exhaust.
Drivetrain: All the car's parts that make it move including the engine, transmission, differential, hub, shafts, etc.
ECU: Electronic Control Unit
EFI: Electronic Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Unit: The computer that receives signals from various sensors and determines how much fuel to inject into the engine under various conditions.
Flywheel: A large, heavy disc that is attached to the end of the crankshaft. It adds inertia to the engine which results in smoother power flow.
Foot/Pound; A unit of measure that is equivalent to a twisting force of one pound placed on a one foot long lever. Used to measure torque.
Forced Induction: The process of forcing more air into your intake which is return provides more power. Forced Induction refers to such engine add on's as Turbo Chargers, Super Chargers, or Nitrous Oxide.
Fuel Pressure Regulator or FPR: An FPR is a devise that maintains a steady flow of fuel to your engine. With out the FPR, your car may suffer leaning (not enough fuel) upon hard acceleration which requires larger amounts of fuel than a regular steady pace would.
Headers: Pipes that direct the flow of your exhaust ports to the exhaust system.
Head work: Work such as PnP (pot and polish - not plug and play!)and 3 angle valve jobs being done to your engine head.
Heel And Toe: A technique used by racing drivers that involves the use of all three pedals in a manual transmission equipped automobile. During shifting, the toe of the right foot controls the brake, while the heel of the same foot depresses the gas pedal. The left foot, of course, depresses the clutch. When executed properly, the effect is a smooth and efficient transfer of power between shifts.
Horsepower: A unit of measure used in representing the amount of energy or power produced by a device -- one horsepower is equal to the energy required (work) to move a 550 pound object one foot in one second. Also equivalent to 746 watts.
Hybrid (in automotive terms): A word usually used to describe a car that has undergone an engine swap, from a lower model to a higher model. However, a hybrid turbo can describe a T03/04 turbo is which the T04 housing is used with the T03 turbo internals or vise versa. Any part can be a hybrid once it has been modified by interchanging parts to achieve a desired result.
Intake Charge: The mixture of air and fuel that flows into the intake manifold.
Intercooler: A device that helps to cool a forced induction intake charge. In example, the turbo sends the charged air to the intercooler where it cools off then flows to the intake manifold. The purpose for cooling the intake charge is that cool air compresses better and helps to prevent detonation.
Lean Condition: Refers to an air/fuel mixture that has more air than fuel -- may lead to detonation.
limited-slip differential: A specially designed differential that not only allows the left and right axles to spin independently, but also has the ability to distribute the power to each axle evenly, even if one is slipping due to the loss of traction.
Lockup Differential: A differential that locks the two outputs (axles) together , so there is no differential action giving you maximum traction.
Main Bearings: The bearings in the engine block that supports the crankshaft.
Map Sensor: Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor
Naturally Aspirated: Refers to an engine that does not use any form of forced induction to achieve more performance.
Neutral Steering: A condition in which the slip angle of the front and rear wheels are the same.
Nitrous Oxide (NO2): Nitrous oxide is a compound that is made up of two parts oxygen to one part nitrogen. A gas at room temperature and a liquid under pressure. When heated, it breaks down into its two elements.
NOS: Brand name/logo for Nitrous Oxide Systems
Overdrive: A gear set in which the output shaft rotates faster than the input shaft.
Oversteer: Where the slip angle of the rear wheels are greater than that of the front wheels. The rear tires lose grip before front tires do. Happens more often in rear wheel drive cars.
Parasitic Drag: Anything that robs power from the engine via pulleys (air conditioners, alternators, power steering, water pump, etc.) and direct connection.
Polishing -- To Polish (Polished): Smoothing an engine's interior surfaces, usually the cylinder heads, to improve flow characteristics and/or to prevent hot spots.
Porting -- To Port (Ported): Resizing an opening so it is matched with a mating surface.
Power: Usually measured in horsepower, power is proportional to torque and rpm.
Power Band: An rpm range where the majority of the engine's peak power is achieved. Usually starts at engine's peak torque and ends near the engine's peak power.
Power Shift Or Power Shifting: Refers to shifting gears without lifting the foot off the gas pedal. Shifting must be done quickly or the engine will rev too high. Don't let the engine rev more than 500 rpm between shifts. Not for the uncoordinated!
Powertrain: Includes the engine and the transmission.
Progressive-Rate Springs: A spring that is designed to be stronger as it is compressed. If it takes 50 pounds of force to compress the spring one inch, it would take more than 100 pounds of force to compress it an additional inch and so on.
PSI (psi): Pounds per square inch -- used to measure pressure. The measurement process of forced intake on forced induction cars. The higher the PSI, the more air being forced into your intake, the faster your car will go. Also known as boost. Normal atmospheric pressure at sea level is 14.7 psi.
Redline: The maximum recommended rpms for an engine. Refers to the upper limits of the rpm scale where engine damage will most certainly occur -- indicated on the tachometer by a red sector.
Rich Condition: Refers to an air/fuel mixture that has more fuel than air -- may cause loss of power.
RPM (rpm): Revolutions Per Minute -- how many full turns the crankshaft makes in a minute.
SAE: Abbreviation for Society of Automotive Engineers.
Si: Honda abbreviation for Sport Induction. Si models are (with the exception of the R-Type) the top of the line cars.
SiR: Honda abbreviation for Sport Induction Racing. SiR models are the top of line in Japan. Once in awhile, a select number of SiR's make it to N. America.
Slip Angle: The difference in angles between the plane of the wheel and the rolling direction of the tire.
SOHC: Single Overhead Cam -- engine designed to have one camshaft control both intake and exhaust valves.
Spoiler: A wing placed on the rear hatch or trunk of a car that helps to hold down the rear end of a car during high speed drive by creating down-force, thus preventing the rear wheels from losing contact with the road (most effective on cars where the rear wheels are the drive wheels).
Straight Pipe: an exhaust system that flows from the exhaust ports to the muffler without any interference in between such as a catalytic converter.
Stoichiometric Condition: A condition in which you have an ideal mixture of fuel and air -- between lean and rich. Correct stoichiometry is reached when you have 14.7 parts of air to 1 part fuel (gasoline). Perfect combustion.
Strut bars: These are bars or braces that extend from one strut/shock tower to the other above the car. The purpose is to prevent body flex during cornering.
Sway bars: These are bars mounted beneath the car from left wheel to right wheel, both in the front and most cars the back. The purpose is to prevent body roll on hard cornering which may cause you to lose control of the car. All cars come stock with swaybars, however, upgrading to swaybars of a thicker diameter helps to improve performance.
Supercharger, Supercharged: A method of forced induction in which air is forced into the intake manifold via a turbine attached to the crank pulley. Although the term supercharger describes the above, it can also be used to describe any method of compressing air into the engine, including turbochargers!
TDC: Top Dead Center -- when a piston is at the top most position during the compression stroke. TDC can also refer to the top most position of the piston in the exhaust stoke, but "true" TDC is on the compression stroke.
Torque Steer: A tendency for a car to steer to one side when power is applied. A condition that is particular to front wheel drive vehicles.
TPS: Throttle Position Sensor. Measures the angle of the throttle plate and sends the information to the ECU.
Traction: traction is process of your tires gripping the road. Also referred to as "hooking up." When people say "I have no traction" it means that when they take off from a dead start that their tires spin instead of catching the ground and putting the car into motion
Transaxle: A unit that houses both transmission and differential.
Turbo Lag: The time it takes for the turbocharger to start taking effect.
Turbocharger, Turbocharged: A method of forced induction in which air is forced into the intake manifold via a turbine that is powered by the exhaust from the engine.
Type-R: (see) SiR.
Understeer: Where the slip angle of the front wheels are greater than that of the rear wheels. The front tires lose grip before rear tires do. The angle of the steering wheel is greater than normal -- requires more steering by driver. Happens more often in cars equipped with front wheel drive. Slight understeer is actually a desired condition.
Valve Float: When the valves in your engine are no longer controlled by the valve springs -- your engine is more or less toast if this occurs.
Valvetrain: Refers to all the components that operate the valves (including the valves) in the engine's cylinder head.
VTEC: Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control A Honda proprietary system in which cam timing, valve duration and lift is varied according to the needs of the driver -- fuel economy (normal driving) and power (pedal to the metal). Each cam has two profiles and rpm determines the shifting from one profile to the other.
Waste Gate: A device that limits the boost in a turbocharger via a valve. The waste gate bypasses the exhaust under certain conditions. Without a waste gate, a turbocharger will destroy an engine by over boosting the intake charge.
WOT: Wide Open Throttle - throttle is open all the way as in pedal to the metal, let as much air into the intake manifold as possible.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
