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10-11-01, 10:59
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#1 (permalink) |
 
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Post Your Faq's For This Forum Here
In an attempt to generate a trully diverse FAQ section for this site, I am asking YOU, the members of the board for help. We need you to please supply us with frequently asked questions and answers that you feel would correspond to this specific forum. That way after a while, we can compile this list and generate a HUGE FAQ for MX6.com that would cover every aspect of the MX6 (1st gen N/A and turbo, 2nd gen 4 and 6 cyl, everything). So c'mon guys, lets get some goof FAQ's set up in order to help this site grow.
(Please do not post anything off topic here or it will be deleted. Please only post QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS that correspond to this SPECIFIC FORUM) |
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10-13-01, 23:49
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#3 (permalink) |
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that could be covered in first mods. what do you think about sub-catagories? like this:
First mods: -whats the best fist mod? -which is better exhaust or intake? Intake: -how can i make a CAI? -which is better, weapon-r or hotshot? -whats that sensor in my airbox? Exhaust: -I have a leak, should i go aftermarket? Etc, Etc...... |
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--97 S-10-- V8 Swapped project truck --2002 Nissan Maxima-- Grocery Getter 5000 --91 Maxima-- Bone Stock Beater 1993 MX-6... Sold
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12-2-01, 15:27
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#5 (permalink) |
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To be disected at will...
When you eliminate backpressure, you lose bottom end power. If it's a 2.5" or 3" cat-back, you will hurt your car's ability to make power until rpm ranges that you will never, ever hit, where it would be necessary to be able to flow that much exhaust. And at that point, the only way that you would really benefit from it is if you got an equal-diameter downpipe and intake with a much-less-restrictive form of measuring cfm. Then you would have to port the hell out of your exhaust manifold/headers, intake manifold, and head. Then you'd have to get race cams (which you'd be able to control with your new EFI). Then, you'd have to buy new rods (Billet/Pauter just came out with a new line of custom-made titanium rods, which I'm ordering soon for my Talon), new Arias or JE pistons, and some titanium springs. Then you'd have to knife-edge and polish your crank, hot-tank your engine (recommended), have a machinist bore your cylinders to... 0.035" or 0.040" (n/a) or 0.045" (f/i) so those forged pistons will have somewhere to expand to... Of course this will mean that you'll get piston slap on cold starts, which will hurt the cylinders and those expensive race-built pistons... The last thing would be to have the entire rotating assembly balanced. All of that would be necessary to get your engine safely revving to the range where your exhaust would be necessary, unless you did a turbo or nitrous conversion. Then you'd still have to do all of that, plus a lot more (I just thought of a lot of stuff that I missed: fuel mods, ignition, etc) in order to safely support a hairdryer or bottle, but your exhaust would be necessary a lot sooner, since you'd suddenly be flowing a lot more air. Oh, you could get a custom stroker kit, which would then flow more exhaust. I admit that I know very little about coolant systems... I've never had to deal with them that much, really, and no one ever really talks about them on DSMtalk. I've got a Fluidyne "performance" radiator in my Talon. It was $395 from Buschur Racing. I had to buy it because I also bought their front mount intercooler, which is so large that it blocks off a lot of airflow to the radiator, causing your car to overheat. I'm not even sure you'd need a better radiator, unless you do autox, since 9k rpm in even first gear would be speeding in most places... Slimline fans are the way to go for aftermarket fans... $65 from most parts stores. With those mods, you'd have to get a better ignition system. The MSD Dis-2 is a heavy favorite. NGK spark plugs set one or two (depending on which of my following suggestions you follow)degrees cooler than stock would be good. Then, some 10mm wires would be awesome. Fuel needs to be delivered faster when your ignition system is sparking more, so a nice Walbro 255hp pump would probably be more than adequate, but to make sure you NEVER run lean, and to keep in theme with over-engineering everything, something like a Denso pump or the new whatcha-ma-callit (remember that saying? I'm going to have to look it up if someone is interested) pump would be great. Then you'd need to buy some sort of fuel pressure regulator. There are a million bjillion brands out there, and most of them would be a good choice. You also should upgrade your injectors. The bigger, the better. At this point, it would be a good idea to buy a fuel pressure gauge. Just go ahead and find someone who makes a triple A-pillar gauge pod, then buy one, cause you'll need at least that... Another possibility for very, very extreme race engines would be to plumb extra injectors - 8 for a 4cyl or 12 for a 6 cyl. Now I'm going to work on the assumption that you have either a Haltech e6k standalone ECU, or the new AEM standalone (that's replacing the proEFI) but hasn't actually come out yet... For either of these, you'll also need a laptop. If you don't want a standalone you can buy an APEXi AFC (fuel), AVC (boost), and ITC (timing). There are a great variety of controls for nitrous, but you can decide on those yourself... And mounting those three piggybacks is your own problem, especially in an Mx6. Also, you have to find some sort of much-less-restrictive cfm meter like a PMS, so you might as well go standalone. My first suggestion would be a turbocharger. Since most of the work is already done to prep the engine, an intercooler, turbo, external wastegate w/ dump tube, custom intake manifold, BOV, and all the piping can get crammed in there somehow. It should be easier with a 4cyl than with a 6cyl... With those internals, that fuel system, and proper tuning crazy-high boost levels should be achievable. There are Civic guys running FIFTY PSI OF BOOST!!! The other possible system (which I will be utilizing with my turbo by the end of next summer) would be nitrous. IT IS NOT DANGEROUS IF SET UP AND USED CORRECTLY!!! Nitrous Oxide is the molecule formed by the bond between 2 atoms of Nitrogen and one atom of Oxygen N20. Hmmm... 2 N, 1 O. 66% Nitrogen, 33% Oxygen... Say, doesn't that sound like air? (79% N, 21%0) Why yes! It does! Nitrous is like chemically compressed air. Sure enough, when nitrous is exposed to heat, 2 molecules of nitrous decompose into 2 gaseous nitrogen molecules and one gaseous oxygen molecule. This means instant air, which is like instand boost. Nitrous comes in a liquid form, and to keep it liquid requires fairly high pressure. Squirting this high pressure liquid into a hot combustion chamber causes it to decompose into gases, and at the same time, expand greatly. This expansion in turn sucks a lot of heat out of the intake charge, making it very dense. The end result is a lot of very high pressure, low temperature air in your combustion chamber, in a very short period of time. It's a sort of chemical, intercooled turbo. If more fuel is added at the same time as the nitrous, then you get a whole lot more power. If for some reason you don't add more fuel at the same time as the nitrous, you get a _very lean_ high pressure mixture, which is a BAD thing: blow-heads-clean-off-the-block bad. The best system would be a direct-port wet kit. This would include a bottle (I recommend Nitrous Express), a line going to the engine bay, some sort of regulator, in this case tied into the standalone system, the nitrous rail mounted directly above the intake manifold, and four nitrous injectors drilled into the plenums. You'd then have the standard bottle pressure gauge installed into a pod, a bottle heater around your bottle, a purge valve, a safety valve on your bottle to release under too high of pressure, and if it's your thing (not mine) a couple of stickers. A dry kit would be the same thing, except there would be a single nozzle and it would be inserted into your intake tract, as far away from the throttle body as possible. If you are running a turbo/nitrous combo, it should be tapped immediately after the blow-off valve. This is so that the nitrous can be dispersed as evenly as possible within your intake, and thus in the engine. Either way, I would recommend a two-stage kit, especially on a FWD car. This allows for one small shot (35hp? It depends on the traction) at lower speeds or rpm, and a higher one at higher speeds and/or rpm. There are two benefits to this. There's the traction thing, and there's the I-just-spent-several-thousand-dollars-on-my-car-and-I-don't-want-to-destroy-it-prematurely thing. The difference between turbos and nitrous is that turbos spool gradually (sometimes too gradually). Nitrous is instantious, and it hits the engine similarly to an impact hammer. This is worse than the same amount of stress when applied gradually, even if your internals can handle it. They won't be able to forever. In my AWD Talon I'm going to have a 2-stage system: a XXX shot hitting immediately in first after I go WOT and my stutterbox shuts off, and a XXX shot hitting about 250 rpm later and holding until I shift, in every gear. There are throttle position sensors that cut off fuel the microsecond you let off the throttle, so I don't have to worry about my top end. My standalone will take care of everything. This is the beauty of AWD, also. I launch at 10psi, which is more hp than a stock Supra, then spray and spool (nitrous helps turbos spool faster, BTW), then spray some more, and I'll probably only get a chirp of the tires. Last edited by RickBusarow : 11-5-02 at 8:52. |
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12-3-01, 2:31
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#7 (permalink) |
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I edited it a bit. Plenums, the "if one exists" part of the brief stroker reference...
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12-3-01, 3:12
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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--97 S-10-- V8 Swapped project truck --2002 Nissan Maxima-- Grocery Getter 5000 --91 Maxima-- Bone Stock Beater 1993 MX-6... Sold
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12-3-01, 3:30
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#9 (permalink) |
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Quote:
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12-12-01, 12:34
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#11 (permalink) |
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Here is a link for an awesome wheel/tire/gearing calculator
http://www.tolan-hoechst.com/cars/tirecalc.htm |
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12-20-01, 9:43
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#12 (permalink) |
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cooled under pressure
 
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Q. I'm looking into getting a set of __________ wheels for my car but I have no idea how much they weigh. Where can I get this info?
A. wheel weight chart & wheel weight chart |
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Blaze Red 1992 MX-6 GT
WHP = 167.4 WTQ = 234.2 ft-lbs @ 10psi. |
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12-20-01, 10:03
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#13 (permalink) |
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cooled under pressure
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Q. I want to research aftermarket wheels. Does anyone know of any good english language web sites?
A. http://www.mackinindustries.com http://www.konigwheels.com http://www.dazzmotorsports.com http://www.teamdynamicsusa.com http://www.discounttiredirect.com http://www.wheelwarehouse.com http://www.wheelmax.com http://www.precisioninstallations.com http://www.wholesalehyperformance.com http://www.bsaamerica.com http://www.wheels-direct.com http://www.whalentire.com http://www.voodooperformance.com http://www.obxracingsports.com |
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Blaze Red 1992 MX-6 GT
WHP = 167.4 WTQ = 234.2 ft-lbs @ 10psi. |
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12-24-01, 20:53
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#14 (permalink) |
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This is a good one for flywheels...
http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread...threadid=13977 (Approx. HP Gain?) Last edited by Ruubstr94Ls : 11-1-03 at 15:10. |
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--97 S-10-- V8 Swapped project truck --2002 Nissan Maxima-- Grocery Getter 5000 --91 Maxima-- Bone Stock Beater 1993 MX-6... Sold
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1-28-02, 22:33
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#15 (permalink) |
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1st only Kseries engines will fit in K series chassis and that goes for the f series motors and chassis as well. No the B series motors will not fit in our cars neither wil the rx7 motors. The KLZE is a pretty direct swap kind of affair. The FSZE is a bit different. It has VRIS whereas FSD's do not. As a result a person persuing such a swap would need the ecu, wiring harnesses etc. to get the motor to run. A person on Probetalk has sucessfully gotten it to work but he has had to custom wire everything... look at the end of post
IDEAL MOTOR SWAPS FOR MX6 BOTH I4 and V6 IDEAL V6 SWAPS ASPEC KL03 Horsepower :164@5600 Torque :160@4800 JSPEC KLZE Horsepower :200@6500 Torque :165@5500 Conclusion- Only Swap if you have a worn KLO3, because a KLO3 is just as fast with bolt-ons and Nitrous IDEAL I4 SWAPS ASPEC FSD Horsepower :118@5500 Torque :127@4500 JSPEC FSZE Horsepower :170@6800? Torque :135@5000? NEVERMIND I AINT A GURU  ANYBODY WANNA CONTINUE THIS OR DO A BETTER JOB JUST ADD ON. I remember a web page with this info andbody remeber where it is. |
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