HOWTO: Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement - Mazda MX-6 Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-20-05, 0:12 Thread Starter
 
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HOWTO: Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement

Well after running around with a clanking noise every time I run ove a bump, not to mention not being able to align the car and having my steering wheel jerked about at randon. I decided to get some bushings. My passenger side was completely busted. After searching for a bit I found the SuperPro poly bushings, I only installed the front ones which are part # SPF1843K which are ~$50 plus shipping. They also make rear control arm bushings, but I didn't get those because they were $100 plus shipping. There are 3 models for the rear bushings, regular camber, positive camber and negative camber. You probably can figure out what is the difference between them.

This is the packaging:


What they look out of the package:


If you are wondering how the hell I got the stock bushings out, well there are two solutions. 1.) Burning them off, but the smell of burn rubber and the risk of damaging something with the torch isn't to appealing to me. 2.) I decided to put my engineering degree to the test and made my own little tool. Its basically a threaded rod, you pass it through the hole on the bushing and put a nut and washer on the end. On the other end slide over a peice of pipe bigger than the bushing. I used a 2.5" diameter, about 6" long pipe, I then got a flat peice of steel and drilled a hole through it and put another not. Now to remove the bushing just turn the nut and after a few minutes you will have witness the birth of a stock control arm bushing. Below is a pic of my tool.... well my tool is bigger than that, let me clarify, the tool I made to remove the control arm bushing.



The tool installed removing the bushing, for another angle:


Stock bushing removed:


New bushings greased and installed:


Installed and bolted on:


Another view


The other side I had to hammer the bushing out because it came apart since it was broken.

Questions...?


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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-20-05, 0:45
 
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Nifty.

The way I got them out (without special tools) was sticking the whole control arm in the freezer for a while, and then hammering out the bushing. Worked well enough.

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-20-05, 0:50
 
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if my car kind of shakes at high speeds or shakes when im braking...could that mean i need to replace my bushings or what?
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-20-05, 0:51
 
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id like to add, an inexpensive way to removing the old bushings is heat up the exterior (the steel) and when its red hot, smash the bushings out. Works like a charm. Although you will have to remove the control arm completly to do this. BUT you should be replacing the rear control arm bushings as welll anywase if yer doing the fronts.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-20-05, 0:56
 
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Great 1. Hope they'll stick it.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-20-05, 1:06
 
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very clever contraption, though to make it more interesting, i would weld a bolt on the opposite end. why? because for some reason, every single time I try to screw out one end, the whole thing moves!. atleast with the bolt on the other end, you have something to grip a wrench with incase the rod starts to spin

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-20-05, 2:53
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AAlonzo
very clever contraption, though to make it more interesting, i would weld a bolt on the opposite end. why? because for some reason, every single time I try to screw out one end, the whole thing moves!. atleast with the bolt on the other end, you have something to grip a wrench with incase the rod starts to spin
Or you could just put a wrench on the other end.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-20-05, 10:06
 
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Wouldn't that change the temperment of the steel and possiblly make it more brittle. Just wonder is all as I am not totally sure of it myself.


Quote:
Originally Posted by KING6
id like to add, an inexpensive way to removing the old bushings is heat up the exterior (the steel) and when its red hot, smash the bushings out. Works like a charm. Although you will have to remove the control arm completly to do this. BUT you should be replacing the rear control arm bushings as welll anywase if yer doing the fronts.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-20-05, 15:06
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon002
Quote:
Originally Posted by AAlonzo
very clever contraption, though to make it more interesting, i would weld a bolt on the opposite end. why? because for some reason, every single time I try to screw out one end, the whole thing moves!. atleast with the bolt on the other end, you have something to grip a wrench with incase the rod starts to spin

Or you could just put a wrench on the other end.
you can't fit a wrench in the other side. if anyone comes up with a solution to that problem please tell me, i've already got a replacement control arm, but that though bolt on the front bushing won't come off, i'm thinking i'll have to take a saws all to the whole damn thing

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-20-05, 16:10
 
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Put an impact wrench on it and pull the trigger, should come right out. If not, use PB blaster or a propane torch to heat the bolt. It's probably rusted in there pretty good.



ps, yes, you can fit a wrench on the other end, look at his picture again.

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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-20-05, 17:10
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon002
Put an impact wrench on it and pull the trigger, should come right out. If not, use PB blaster or a propane torch to heat the bolt. It's probably rusted in there pretty good.



ps, yes, you can fit a wrench on the other end, look at his picture again.
tried all of the above and no a wrench will not fit. i'm talking about the nut in the middle of this picture

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-20-05, 18:27
 
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Socket with an extension. I have changed enough control arms on these cars to know.

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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-20-05, 20:10 Thread Starter
 
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That nut has a safety catch to hold it in place when you remove and install the bolt. If it weren't there then you could put a wrench in there.

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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-21-05, 13:29
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funzie
That nut has a safety catch to hold it in place when you remove and install the bolt. If it weren't there then you could put a wrench in there.
yeah the safety catch on the car i was working on was rusted away, just enough for it not to catch the bolt. I guess I'll have to give getting a wrench in there another try.

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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-11-12, 23:06
 
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what is the diameter of your threaded rod?

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