hmm. I read the thing on PT and didn't really understand. I don't know much about the KL. I dunno what the VRIS is, what it does or where it is.
VRIS stands for Variable Resonance Induction System. It's patented Mazda technology. There are these two bulbous things at top and back of your intake manifold that look like this:
(ignore the brake fluid resevoir, this is a pic from a European Mx6, so on our North American mx6s, the resevoir's on the other side)
That bulbous thing outlined in red is the VRIS. There's two, the one outlined above is VRIS #1, and #2 is a located at the other end of the Intake manifold (behind the spring thing with a black vacuum tube coming out of it in the picture below).
The are like switches, where at certain RPMs, they are triggered to open a valve inside the intake manifold that lets in more air. When they open -- because more air equals more combustions equals more power -- that's when you feel the true power of your car, whether stock KLDE or KLZE.
On a KLZE, VRIS #1 is supposed to open at 4000RPM, and #2 at 4800RPM. Both simultaneously close at 6800 RPM (right before the redline). However, when swapping, since the KLZE engine is accustomed to the japanese ECU (computer) programming that tells it to do this, and you're pairing it into an american KLDE computer, the programmed VRIS points don't match and you get a CEL light and are missing out on full KLZE level horsepower. For 93-95 mx6s, they can simply have a chip installed because it's compatible with their OBD 1 system. But since all 1996 and up cars are OBD 2, we can't do that and you have to resort to the previously mentioned tuning tactics.
This is just a simple explanation, I'm sure a more extensive one can be made by the experts on this site. But I hope this helps.
VRIS stands for Variable Resonance Induction System. It's patented Mazda technology. There are these two bulbous things at top and back of your intake manifold that look like this:
(ignore the brake fluid resevoir, this is a pic from a European Mx6, so on our North American mx6s, the resevoir's on the other side)
That bulbous thing outlined in red is the VRIS. There's two, the one outlined above is VRIS #1, and #2 is a located at the other end of the Intake manifold (behind the spring thing with a black vacuum tube coming out of it in the picture below).
The are like switches, where at certain RPMs, they are triggered to open a valve inside the intake manifold that lets in more air. When they open -- because more air equals more combustions equals more power -- that's when you feel the true power of your car, whether stock KLDE or KLZE.
On a KLZE, VRIS #1 is supposed to open at 4000RPM, and #2 at 4800RPM. Both simultaneously close at 6800 RPM (right before the redline). However, when swapping, since the KLZE engine is accustomed to the japanese ECU (computer) programming that tells it to do this, and you're pairing it into an american KLDE computer, the programmed VRIS points don't match and you get a CEL light and are missing out on full KLZE level horsepower. For 93-95 mx6s, they can simply have a chip installed because it's compatible with their OBD 1 system. But since all 1996 and up cars are OBD 2, we can't do that and you have to resort to the previously mentioned tuning tactics.
This is just a simple explanation, I'm sure a more extensive one can be made by the experts on this site. But I hope this helps.
Now THAT is how someone should respond to me. Thats EXACTLY how it needed to be said. I will give you 2X the karma for that(when able).
I know those things are, I took them off when I painted my IM. I knew thats what they where, but I wasn't sure why or how they worked. There hooked to vac lines right? How does the MSD Window switchs get hooked up? I am wondering how they are wired. Honestly, I know I could swap a motor, but I am wondering before I do it about ever peice and part.
The original"Mr. Clean"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goatcrapp
i'll ban the everliving [shizzle] out of you!
Please read this as many times as you need to, to digest the information.
How to install MSD Window switches to a KL series engine.
It would be a lot easier to understand how to hook up the switches when you actually have them and can see the different coloured wires (and their assigned purposes), but I'll try to explain as best as I can.
NOTE:This is a picture off a KLDE, however, the solenoids on the KLZE are located in the same area, but are at 45 degree angles instead of straight up like in this pic:
Also, for the other solenoid (on the right in the picture), the Red/Blue wire = ground; Red/Black wire = 12V.
The wires to the VRIS solenoids are the same colour and corresponding function in the KLZE.
MSD RPM Activated Window Switch wires
Red MSd wire = Connects to a 12V source (car battery, for example)
Black MSD wire = Connects to a ground source
[Follow this next part carefully]
The basic operation of the VRIS solenoids is on/off .. they are fed a 12v feed in one side and a ground on the other (as outlined in the pic above). But the ground side is not direct to earth, its via the ECU, so when the ecu says so, it grounds the 12v and the solenoid opens.
Again the sole purpose of the window switches is to either provide 12v (gray wire ) or ground ( yellow ) at a specific RPM. so .. you can go 2 ways .. either remove the GND wire from the VRIS solenoid plug and replace it with the MSD wire. [As explained by MX6.com member Oddball]
Therfore, you either remove the VRIS ground wire and replace it with the Yellow MsD wire OR you remove the VRIS 12V wire and replace it with the Gray MSD wire. Not both. The msd wire u choose not to connect should be tied and tucked, same with the VRIS wire that is removed.
White MSD wire = Will need to be spliced into the distributor wire. The distributor will have a 4 prong harnass and a 3 prong harnass. In the middle of the 3 prong will be a yellow wire which is for the tachometer. Splice into the yellow disty wire with your white MSD wire. http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...istyprongs.jpg
Once all the wire work is done, you set your VRIS points:
VRIS #1 open at 4000 RPM, close at 6800RPM
VRIS #2 open at 4800 RPM, close at 6800RPM
Then you're done! To test if the swithes are working, you do a "Paper Test," where you secure a small slip of paper under the VRIS tabs, take it for a spin and pull it up to at least 5000 RPM, stop the car and check if they're still there. If they are gone are are there but have holes in them, then you know that the VRIS opened and closed properly.
Last edited by BShark : 3-16-07 at 0:18.
Reason: Added more details
BShark- I think that is the most helpful anyone has been to me on here in a LONG time. That disreves major karma and I think that should be made into a sticky or something for people. I am not sure about electrical stuff but I understand that perfect.
The original"Mr. Clean"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goatcrapp
i'll ban the everliving [shizzle] out of you!
Please read this as many times as you need to, to digest the information.
i read this whole thread, and although i went back and forth from wanting to ZE my 97 LS' I've finished reading with wanting to do the swap. I have friends who have swapped their neon and civic motors, and I just want a basic confirmation that our ZE is a drag and drop swap like thiers? As for the OBDII --> OBDI conversion, there is a custom shop around that I'll have hook that up, as well as order the engine (possibly)
i read this whole thread, and although i went back and forth from wanting to ZE my 97 LS' I've finished reading with wanting to do the swap. I have friends who have swapped their neon and civic motors, and I just want a basic confirmation that our ZE is a drag and drop swap like thiers? As for the OBDII --> OBDI conversion, there is a custom shop around that I'll have hook that up, as well as order the engine (possibly)
Where in PA are you located? The swap isn't anything hard, its a basic motor swap(like swapping a stock for stock) except for the MSD window switches exsplanned in this thread.
The original"Mr. Clean"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goatcrapp
i'll ban the everliving [shizzle] out of you!
Please read this as many times as you need to, to digest the information.
BShark- I think that is the most helpful anyone has been to me on here in a LONG time. That disreves major karma and I think that should be made into a sticky or something for people. I am not sure about electrical stuff but I understand that perfect.
LoL, thanks. I learnt all that from off of here, accumulated over hours of researching. I think I will create a new thread with that and have it moved to the FAQ How To section...
Where in PA are you located? The swap isn't anything hard, its a basic motor swap(like swapping a stock for stock) except for the MSD window switches exsplanned in this thread.
Don't bother swapping waste of money and it's just gonna create more headaches than it's worth. The problems i've had with my 97LS ZE swap, EGR crap which come and leave now i'm actually only throwing a purge control circuit code which i took off and can't find.
As for MSD switches search my started threads i made a how to a couple years ago. Hit up a junk yard first and foremost get the 2 male and female ends for the VRIS (you'll do this to avoid 2 VRIS codes). Now when installing your MSD switches if you want them hidden behind the cup holder take your dash apart and fit them in there. One fits perfectly standing up taped to the metal bracket and the other at it's feet, this area keeps the ugly switches nicely hidden and easy to run thru the firewall VIA the rubber plug by the charcoal cannister. You can can ground and get your power from the interior fuse box. The 2 wires that run to the VRIS solenoids don't matter which way you hook them up so that's one thing i worried about for a while before hooking them up which you won't.
Next take off your VRIS solenoids leaving them hooked up but bolt them to the firewall, this is so you won't throw codes{you don't have to hook up the vaccuum lines to it}. Your car is going to think that everything is fine. Now use the ones you picked up from the junker to hook up to the MSD. The only other wire goes to the disty and check my thread seeing your a 97 i think it's a green one.
Oh yeah, i forgot the other main problem with the swap was my 97 disty wouldn't work, the brand new 95 disty wouldn't work, 2 obd1 disties i tried from the junker wouldn't work but the obd1 600 $$ disty at MAZDA worked suprise suprise and they had to swap the wires around. Yes they did swap the disty's in front of me. No one else has had this problem.
After the switches were installed a quick butt dyno revealed to me that the car pulls hard from 4-6500. My car is in no way slower than it was with the klde and it's dead even with Messiah's car who swapped at the same time with an eprom'd 93 and has about the same bolt ons. Never dyno'd it.
Realistically if i could do it all over i'd probably buy a 93 and do the swap and would have sold my 97. My swap cost way too much, there is going to be expenses that you aren't going to see coming. Make sure you have alternative transportation, time and patience.
I'd love to see some pictures of your set-up. Of all the people that have this set-up, I've requested pics from them all, but they never to come around with any -- i hope u can break that trend.
Also, it's the yellow wire on the disty that the white MSD wire hooks into, I believe.
yeah i rem you asked me, unfortunatly i moved to edmonton and don't have a digicam anymore and i did lots of work right before i left i so could have taken some pics.
The pic you posted with both VRIS solenoids, those ones should just be removed from the bracket and bolted against the firewall. Then you should have taken a 2 more from the junker. Then connect the MSD wires to the the actuactor it doesn't matter about ground or power because the switch will determine it.
The disty wire is a different color on different years so be careful but you'll know if you did it wrong. When I had to reconnect my msd switches after the swap i hit the wrong wire and all it did was the tach and the msd switches didn't work.
It seems like a big job but really it's just electrical, run a power a ground, run the 2 wires off each switch to the actuators, and one to the disty, if your 96-97 and even some obd2 95's make sure to leave the original actuators hooked.
Oh and from my original thread the resistors i tried didn't work i still threw the code.
Toke316 is your car obdII or did you do the conversion to obdI? I didn't have any problems with the ze swap in my 96 pgt obdII or the window switches. I been thinking about the obdI conversion, but i'm not sure if it's worth it. There is a guy on probetalk looking at a way to run a ze ecu on obdII, but he's not sure if it will work, but he's going to try.
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