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Old 4-2-08, 9:41   #1 (permalink)
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Weight Reduction





Just wondering if any of you track guys have a list of things you removed to get your weight down on your mx-6. Also was there any negative effects on your top end speed. 115mph plus Does the car become somewhat unstable? I would like to do a weight reduction on the car. This is more for drag strip purposes rather than road course purposes. Thanks for any input.


2001 Ford CVPI New Engine, 2000 Taurus SES New Engine, 1995 Mx6 Ls New engine, Headers & 2.5" exhaust, CAI, 255# Fuel Pump,ksports

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Old 4-2-08, 19:32   #2 (permalink)
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how serious do you want to go?
some basic things
1. spare, jack..etc
2. remove all audio stuff for track days or permanently
3. seats - rear, passenger

thats probably it for a car youd still like to drive around.
then...
1. AC?
2. start ripping out interior panels.
3. carpets
4. anything else you dont want to use...
5. anything in the engine bay that doenst get used often.
6. smaller battery (jump it every time)

light weight panels, plastic windows...

I think somewhere on here someone (probably peirs) posted up a huge list of weight reduction they had done, weights of all the stuff. etc... might want to try finding that

Daily - '92 2G -- White, KLZE, Selex coilovers, full black leather interior, CAI, pacesetters, exhaust 16x8 BBS RS (replicas)
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Old 4-2-08, 19:43   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks man. I'll look for that list


2001 Ford CVPI New Engine, 2000 Taurus SES New Engine, 1995 Mx6 Ls New engine, Headers & 2.5" exhaust, CAI, 255# Fuel Pump,ksports

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Old 4-2-08, 23:35   #4 (permalink)
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Ive started so far with super lightweight rims, a/c delete, and now my cf trunk... after that its gonna be the hood and then when the engine build begins, I'll start removing "lots of unnecessary" junk LOL

2005 Nissan Frontier 4x4 - daily driver
1999 Honda CRV - fully equipped family hauler w/ child & baby seats

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Old 4-3-08, 9:53   #5 (permalink)
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Light rims will improve acceleration but decrease highway gas mileage.
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Old 4-3-08, 11:08   #6 (permalink)
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Are u looking for a daily driver/track car or just a straight up track car?

Iam just a regular everyday normal guy.
TT Project.
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Old 4-3-08, 12:39   #7 (permalink)
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This is Project Mx-6. It will only be for the track. But I want to keep the interior because once i buy my Lancer, this car will be my lil brothers daily driver. So i don't want to completely rip the car apart. But i'd like to remove some weight like spare tire well ect.


2001 Ford CVPI New Engine, 2000 Taurus SES New Engine, 1995 Mx6 Ls New engine, Headers & 2.5" exhaust, CAI, 255# Fuel Pump,ksports

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Old 4-4-08, 0:02   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elmer_Fudd View Post
Light rims will improve acceleration but decrease highway gas mileage.
That's not entirely true - at least not in a broad and general sense.

You're talking about the weight being able to maintain momentum more easily..

in our cars, its more a function of the flywheel's ability to hold inertia.

our drive train, power band, and etc is actually fairly efficient for highway cruising - lighter rims *may* hurt this if they are a many-spoked design, or other aerodynamically inefficient attributes.

another thing to consider is the fact that most ppl who bother putting rims on also put on some sort of performance tire, which is usually of a softer compound than all weather comfort radials.. this increases tire drag slightly, which adds up to less mileage (percentages of a decimal point however)

If someone found a lightweight, full face rim OR a rim with spokes designed both to minimalize turbulence, and draw air out from the bottom of the car - a-la colin chpaman (lotus) design then you would get the gain from lighter weight, as well as better mileage.


re: weight redux... there isn't a lot of room to remove weight in this car withough affecting your creature comforts.

spare tire/jack/non essential portable items was already mentioned.

Lightwight battery that you DONT need to jump? batcap 8xx. Useful as a start battery with 800=something cranking amps, but it isn't very cold-climate friendly. 14lbs which is a significant savings over regular batteires at 26+ lbs.. and a big savings over premium batterys - an optima redtop, for instance weighs 31+lbs.


stripping the interior is a multi-tiered discussion. I wish Howlett was around

frankly.. you don't save much weight at all by ripping out the seats. They are light with the exception of the driver's seat. Swap the power leather for a non power cloth seat and you save about 20 lbs.

Where there IS some weight to be shaved while still keeping a reasonable interior is under the carpeting in the cabin and trunk. the factory sound deadening and mass loading material makes up at least 15-20 lbs. good luck getting it off though lol. its a bitch.

the carpeting adds 10. 15 if you also have a 4 piece set of mats.

what else... everything from speakers (1lb each stock) to pedal rubber.

sunroof motor and assembly is a pig at 7 lbs.

rear spoiler is a couple of pounds. rear strut is a pound (you only really need 1 very good one, instead of 2 mediocre ones lol)

the power antenna can be replaced with a lighter weight sail antenna, and the motor is also a bit of weight savings.

the fiberglass matting under the hood is almost 2 lbs.

speaking of under the hood - there are so many un-needed brackets and bolts. I shouldn't say un-needed.. just.. you can easily get along without a lot of them. being able to strip 10 lbs of crap under the hood, after replacing with zip ties is very feasible.. without removing any functionality.

the e-brake setup (handle, assembly, cable, various anchor points, and arm on the caliper) can be removed to save 8-10 lbs.

an aluminum short shifter will be 1/2 a pound lighter than stock.

running a shorty exhaust (exits on the side, either just behind front wheel or just in front of rear wheel (better)) with thin wall piping, no cat and a small race muffler can save 15-20 lbs.

a set of 20 race lugs will be about 1.5lbs lighter than stock chrome lugs.

the trunk lid doesn't really weigh a lot in the first place.. so a full CF one might be saving you 3-4 lbs.

Better weight savings comes up front. fiberglass fenders, and a cf or fiberglass hood can save you 12-15 lbs.

The rear windscreen glass is very heavy. 45 lbs or so. a piece of lexan cut and bent to fit will be <5. It will also be extremely expensive, and will shatter if broken. very easily scratched too.

the dash. the dash pieces total up to about 25lbs, and the various looms of wire and assorted [shizzle], when simplified, save you another 5 lbs in "extra" bolts, tape, padding, shielding, etc.

a single high power flexalite fan will weight 5-6 lbs less than the stock dual fan assembly.

the bumper supports are what.. 5 lbs each?

the trunk latch (3lbs or so) can be replaced with light weight hood pins.. save 2 lbs that way.

It seems like nit picking, but a pound here, 2 lbs there is the difference between a 2600lb mx6 and a 2480lb mx6.

all of these though are getting more extreme - The mx6 is already a fairly light car, and until you get extreme with it, unless you're willing to give up creature comforts, or spend money replacing stocker parts with light weight parts, you won't be saving much more than 75lbs or so. I've seen 2280 lbs no options and fully stripped mx6's though

94 mx6 - you name it - I did it, came up with it, tried it and rejected it or just plain still have it. **Now in the caring hands of Chef**
93 mx3 - klze, i/h/e, rims and paint.. **FS - on a lift, has an engine, just need to put them together. I have no time. come buy it cheap.
98 jeep GC - 5.9L with bolt ons, lifted, locked. 32x10.5 Goodyear MTR winter/ 30x9.5 bfg ta/ko summer. Custom steel bumpers + armor. "the beast"
98 jeep GC - 5.9L with every bolt on + tune. My street jeep. small tires, but runs 13's
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Old 4-4-08, 0:19   #9 (permalink)
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wow thats what i call a list I'll keep the seats and leather because they weigh next to nothing. The glass is what i would like to replace with lexan. Windshield and back window is about 100 lbs estimated. If i keep cutting away at my hood. it will be lighter than cf hood. lol I could remove the spare tire well. Remove the speakers ect. I would like to keep the a/c intact as oneday it will return to civialian life. i seen a ton of lightweight wheels but the are as soft as tin and damage easily. so not sure i'll go that route at all. But i'll make Goat's list a checklist and do as many things as possible without ruining the interior look of the car.


2001 Ford CVPI New Engine, 2000 Taurus SES New Engine, 1995 Mx6 Ls New engine, Headers & 2.5" exhaust, CAI, 255# Fuel Pump,ksports

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Old 4-4-08, 0:39   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Evil_Demon View Post
wow thats what i call a list I'll keep the seats and leather because they weigh next to nothing. The glass is what i would like to replace with lexan.
if you replace the front with lexan, and actually race it on a track (not drag) - the first pebble you come across could be the one that has your face scarred for life if you have an open face helmet.

I wouldn't replace the front windshield for 20lbs of savings. The rear, go for it.

It will be a LOT more expensive than you seem to think however.

Quote:
Windshield and back window is about 100 lbs estimated. If i keep cutting away at my hood. it will be lighter than cf hood. lol
and be so aerodynamically bankrupt that you'd lose all benefits of weight redux, and then some. It'll also be ass ugly. Don't be willing to spend a ton of money on lexan, but unwilling to spend some dough on a lighter hood that'll actually maintain (well improve, in your current case) your aerodynamic profile.

Quote:
I could remove the spare tire well.
- sure remove a load bearing and vital part of the lateral integrity of the rear unibody section

removing it won't save you much weight.. maybe none, once you factor in the tubing you'd have to weld in to reinforce the rear in it's absence. You won't pass tech without reinforcement if you cut it out.

Quote:
Remove the speakers ect. I would like to keep the a/c intact as oneday it will return to civialian life. i seen a ton of lightweight wheels but the are as soft as tin and damage easily.
[ ]cheap [ ]reliable [ ]easy

pick two. (replace easy with fast if you just want to drag race it)

Quote:
so not sure i'll go that route at all. But i'll make Goat's list a checklist and do as many things as possible without ruining the interior look of the car.
its not so much a checklist.. just an idea generator. There are a ton of things (har har) I overlooked.

and by the way read the PM i am sending you

94 mx6 - you name it - I did it, came up with it, tried it and rejected it or just plain still have it. **Now in the caring hands of Chef**
93 mx3 - klze, i/h/e, rims and paint.. **FS - on a lift, has an engine, just need to put them together. I have no time. come buy it cheap.
98 jeep GC - 5.9L with bolt ons, lifted, locked. 32x10.5 Goodyear MTR winter/ 30x9.5 bfg ta/ko summer. Custom steel bumpers + armor. "the beast"
98 jeep GC - 5.9L with every bolt on + tune. My street jeep. small tires, but runs 13's
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Old 4-4-08, 0:48   #11 (permalink)
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Yea you're right. weight reduction is 1 expensive headache. And i like the mx-6 too much to strip it naked lol Guess i'll just remove basic stuff and be satisfied with that. I removed my 60 lb sub box. 20 lb 2ton jack. 15lbs of tools. and the spare tire and i can squeel the tires at 35 mph in second. keep in mind these are tires with 25% tread life left. None the less it puts a smile on my face and others that witness such a sight


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Old 4-4-08, 9:18   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks for clarifying what i was trying to explain, I knew there was more to it but it had been so long since I studied it I knew I'd botch the explaination
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Old 4-4-08, 17:16   #13 (permalink)
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if u remove the AC correctly u can save the weight from the condenser ect awell free up some free HP from the motor. Also when your ready to give it to your bro just reattach it ect and get it refilled.

Iam just a regular everyday normal guy.
TT Project.
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Old 4-4-08, 17:27   #14 (permalink)
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That is a good point. I think i'm just going to run spray and keep everything intact. I don't want to make the car anymore unsafe than it is.


2001 Ford CVPI New Engine, 2000 Taurus SES New Engine, 1995 Mx6 Ls New engine, Headers & 2.5" exhaust, CAI, 255# Fuel Pump,ksports

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Old 4-4-08, 17:43   #15 (permalink)
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In other words, you have absolutely no interest in RACING... just running 1/4 mile times that are faster than stock.


running the juice has next to no use at a real track. its only for going straight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Evil_Demon View Post
That is a good point. I think i'm just going to run spray and keep everything intact. I don't want to make the car anymore unsafe than it is.

94 mx6 - you name it - I did it, came up with it, tried it and rejected it or just plain still have it. **Now in the caring hands of Chef**
93 mx3 - klze, i/h/e, rims and paint.. **FS - on a lift, has an engine, just need to put them together. I have no time. come buy it cheap.
98 jeep GC - 5.9L with bolt ons, lifted, locked. 32x10.5 Goodyear MTR winter/ 30x9.5 bfg ta/ko summer. Custom steel bumpers + armor. "the beast"
98 jeep GC - 5.9L with every bolt on + tune. My street jeep. small tires, but runs 13's
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