what are the reasons that the KLZE is not recomended over the FSZE for a swap with the i4?
just wondering, cost wise they look to turn out close to the same when its all said and done, and it would be nice to get that extra 30 hp and have the smoothness of a 6 under the hood.
Originally posted by gannon_dylan what are the reasons that the KLZE is not recomended over the FSZE for a swap with the i4?
just wondering, cost wise they look to turn out close to the same when its all said and done, and it would be nice to get that extra 30 hp and have the smoothness of a 6 under the hood.
if you got the money to do the V6 swap it would be better .. I know some people have talked about attempting it .. and it can be done ... but you have to buy all the V6 sensors, that dont come with the motor ... you have to buy the V6 alternator, V6 Power Steering Pump, V6 AC compressor, you have to get a V6 ECU, and a V6 Transmission ... from there ... you have to manually run wires from the new V6 ECU, to each sensor .... which can be a chore ...
but if your up to the job and got the money ... go for it ... (some parts that I mentioned, may be the same on the I4, I just dont know much about the I4 ... )
I'm trying to wire my ZE now, and am having a problem. In my engine bay I have 2 identical connectors which both fit the connector that came with my ZE.
When i got my ZE it had a piece of the wiring harness with it. this piece has the connectors for all the vacume solenoids on the back of the IM and all the various temp sending units located around the radiator cap on the engine side. (there is one more sensor on the ZE that I didn't have on my 03, too).
anyway, After having gotten the engine in, we found that two of the connectors on the STOCK wiring harness are identical. one appears to be tranny related, and the other engine related. So we went by the colors of the wires themselves to hook everything up. However this now leaves this other wiring harness that came with the ZE. since that has all the correct stuff on it, I'd like to use that. Can I just disconnect the a-spec plug and use the j-spec one?
I hope I'm explaining this right. Tomorrow when the shop opens up again, I'll be finishing up the vacume lines and hopefully the wiring. I also noticed the same problem with the midshaft not having enough holes. was this issue ever resolved? should I drill another have in the bearing mount?
Other than that the swap is going faily well, so far.
If im planning on putting a turbo in, wouldn't the FSZE be better than the KLZE. Everyone seems to have their own opinion on this. Almost 50/50. I have the 4 cyl now.
well its been a long long time......but it still moves one mile at a time lol
Originally posted by epidemik Can the KLZE engine be turbo'd? If no, why not?
I dont know of any car engines that cannot be turbocharged.. and i know it has been done to the KLZE.. Since it is the same as the engine in the american 6.. other than a few internal changes, i dont see why your would think it couldnt be.. but yes, it can.. I would suggest you get someone to do the installation for you!
the ZE has a higher compression ratio than the 03. But the connecting rods are just as soft. So running high boost, or a large nitrous shot will be likely to age the engine fast... or blow it up.
If you rebuild the bottom end, or stack up head gaskets, you might be able to run higher pressure, but probably a safe boost on a ZE is between 2 and 4 pounds.
Check out the forced induction section on probetalk. they have a LOT of people over there who have done this mod with varying degrees of success.
There are a few companies that make kits for our cars, but I don't know about ZE specific setups. Your best bet (and probably least expensive) is to have a local shop do the work. Any turbo will work, same with intercoolers. I got an intercooler out of a volvo in the junk yard for like $30 in preparation for a future FI mod. If it works, I probably saved a few hundred bucks, and if not, $30 isn't such a huge loss.
Anyone have any idea why the ZE chip running a ZE engine causes the HOLD light to blink?
I have an ATX, did the ZE swap, etc.
When I plug the A-spec chip into the harness, I get the egr code (expected), and nothing else. Engine idle is rugh, and between 1700 and 2000 rpms) hold button works, tranny operation seems nromal, but engine feels weak. No other codes come back from either the ECU for the engine, or the tranny.
When I plug in the j-spec chip, no codes come back from either chip (tranny or engine), but I have a blinking hold light. Also, the engine idle is right where it should be, engine feels more powerful, but tranny operation is horrible. I have to get almost to redline for it to shift, it shifts REAL hard, the hold button does not work at all, does not downshift until I have been sitting still at a light for at least 10 seconds, and even then , it doesn't down shift all the way... it's like the brakes are really fighting to keep the car at a stand still, etc.
I posted a thread about this the other day, but this thread might be a more appropriate place for the question.
The numbers on the chip are: (In big letters) KL31
and in small letters: KL36
the assumption I am going on, based on threads from here and probetalk, is that this is a ZE chip, out of a 626, and it might have been out of a MTX, but I do not know for sure.
For now I'm not driving the car very much, since I don't know if it's a good idea to run either chip. Any help from the ZE gurus would be greatly appreciated, cause at this point I'm getting out of my league.
When I plug the A-spec chip into the harness, I get the egr code (expected), and nothing else. Engine idle is rugh, and between 1700 and 2000 rpms) hold button works, tranny operation seems nromal, but engine feels weak. No other codes come back from either the ECU for the engine, or the tranny.
Thats expected with the a-spec chip with the ZE. The a-spec ship doesn't have the optimal data for running the ZE.
Quote:
When I plug in the j-spec chip, no codes come back from either chip (tranny or engine), but I have a blinking hold light. Also, the engine idle is right where it should be, engine feels more powerful, but tranny operation is horrible. I have to get almost to redline for it to shift, it shifts REAL hard, the hold button does not work at all, does not downshift until I have been sitting still at a light for at least 10 seconds, and even then , it doesn't down shift all the way... it's like the brakes are really fighting to keep the car at a stand still, etc.
Ok...When you pluged the j-spec chip in... did you also change the VAF you were using? The j-spec chip won't work with the a-spec VAF. The way you describe the shifting problem sounds just like the IAT mod....shifting harder and yada yada yada...
2 things you can do.
1. get a VAF/MAF from an MX3 (50-150$ used)
2. get your a-spec chip reprogrammed ( over 300$ ????)
hope this helps,
-Chris
"I may not have started this thread, but damn it, I'm going to end it!"
MSIIv3 Extra 2.0.1: custom 36-1 reluctor ring; fabulous! Crazy N/A. 95 MX-6 LS-ZE
Yup. sorry. I completely forgot to mention that. I'm already running the JE50 VAF off an mx3... which, now that I think about it, should have pulled up an error when the a-spec chip was plugged in, shouldn't it?
Maybe my the VAF I got is no good? But what about the blinking hold light? no use of hold button? and inability to downshift?
Thanks for the suggestion, though. I'd completely forgotten I'd changed VAFs. argh. this swap has become such a pain...
Well. I don't know if there is a diff. between the ATX and MTX chips, someone else will have to answer that for ya. A search on PT might have the answer, you'll have to skim through a bunch of junk tho!
Anyone else know whats going on with Silenc3r's ZE?
"I may not have started this thread, but damn it, I'm going to end it!"
MSIIv3 Extra 2.0.1: custom 36-1 reluctor ring; fabulous! Crazy N/A. 95 MX-6 LS-ZE
I'm still trying to get ahold of the guy I bought it from in the first place to see if I can swap it for the right one. I'm also trying to find out which one of the 2 I have, I should get reprogrammed... the a-spec with the correct trany info, or the j-spec with the bad tranny info.
I'd hate to spend ANOTHER $350 by going to corksport or some place, but I think I'm fast running out of options.
Today I'm going to be bringing the car home and probably just leaving it there until I get this ECU problem resolved. I really want to start driving it, and this suspense is killing me...
ok, well, thanks, and please keep the info coming, it's helping a lot.
Tell me, Mr. Anderson, what good is a phone call when you are unable to speak?
Location:
For instance. If you went to www.car-part.com and looked up a ecm for your car it would list about 5-10 and have AT or MT. I don't know the technical about the diff.
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